Category: Clogged Nozzle

At some point, you will get a clogged nozzle. This can affect the quality of your prints and cause frustration. But how do you decide if it’s better to purchase a new 3D printer nozzle or clean the one that you have?

The first factor to consider is the cost of a new nozzle versus the cost of cleaning supplies. Depending on the type and size of your nozzle, you may find that buying a new one is cheaper than buying the tools and materials needed to clean it. For example, some nozzles require special solvents or heating devices to dissolve the clogged material. However, if you already have the cleaning supplies or you can find them at a low price, then cleaning your nozzle may be more economical.

The second factor to consider is the time and effort involved in cleaning your nozzle. Cleaning a nozzle can be a tedious and time-consuming process, especially if the clog is severe or hard to reach. You may need to disassemble your printer, soak your nozzle in a solvent, use a needle or a wire to poke out the clog, or even heat up your nozzle to melt the material. This can take hours or even days, depending on the severity of the clog and the method you use. On the other hand, buying a new nozzle can save you a lot of time and hassle, as you can simply replace your old one with a new one and resume printing.

The third factor to consider is the quality and performance of your nozzle. Cleaning your nozzle may not always restore it to its original condition, especially if it has been damaged by wear and tear, corrosion, or overheating. A damaged nozzle can affect the accuracy, precision, and smoothness of your prints, as well as increase the risk of future clogs. Buying a new nozzle can ensure that you get the best possible results from your 3D printer, as well as extend its lifespan.

In conclusion, deciding whether to purchase a new 3D printer nozzle or clean the one that you have depends on several factors, such as cost, time, effort, and quality. You should weigh these factors carefully and choose the option that suits your needs and preferences best. Happy printing!

If you have ever experienced a clogged nozzle or a jammed extruder on your 3D printer, you know how frustrating it can be. One of the possible causes of this problem is burnt filament stuck in the heatbreak, the thin metal tube that connects the hotend and the cold end of the extruder.

The first thing you need to do is to remove the nozzle from the hotend. You can do this by heating up the nozzle to about 200°C and using a wrench to unscrew it.

Next, you need to remove the heatbreak from the cold end. Depending on your extruder design, you may need to unscrew some screws or bolts, or loosen some clamps or springs. You can also mark the orientation of the heatbreak before removing it, so you can reassemble it correctly later.

Now, you have the heatbreak in your hand. You can inspect it and see if there is any burnt filament inside. Burnt filament usually looks dark brown or black, and may have a charred smell. If you see any signs of burnt filament, you need to clear it out.

There are two main methods to clear burnt filament out of a heatbreak: using heat or using mechanical force. Using heat means heating up the heatbreak and melting the burnt filament out. Using mechanical force means pushing or pulling the burnt filament out with a tool.

Using heat is easier and safer, but it may take longer and require more equipment. You can use a heat gun, a soldering iron, a blowtorch, or even your hotend to heat up the heatbreak. You need to heat it up to a temperature higher than the melting point of the filament, but lower than the melting point of the metal. For example, if you are using PLA filament, you can heat it up to about 220°C, but not higher than 660°C, which is the melting point of aluminum.

Once the heatbreak is hot enough, you can use a pair of tweezers or pliers to hold it and gently tap it on a hard surface, such as a metal plate or a ceramic tile. This will cause the melted filament to drip out of the heatbreak. You can also use a thin wire or a needle to poke through the heatbreak and push out any remaining filament. Be careful not to scratch or bend the heatbreak.

Using mechanical force is faster and simpler, but it may be more risky and less effective. You can use a drill bit, a hex key, a screwdriver, or any other tool that fits inside the heatbreak. You need to insert the tool into the heatbreak and twist it or push it until the burnt filament comes out. You can also use a hammer or a vise to apply more force if needed. Be careful not to break or deform the heatbreak.

After clearing out the burnt filament, you need to clean the heatbreak thoroughly. You can use some acetone, alcohol, or water to wipe off any residue or dust. You can also use some compressed air or a vacuum cleaner to blow out any particles. Make sure the heatbreak is dry and shiny before reassembling it.

Finally, you need to reassemble the extruder and reinstall the nozzle.

If you are a 3D printing enthusiast, you may have encountered the frustrating problem of a clogged nozzle. This can happen when the filament gets stuck or melted inside the nozzle, preventing the extruder from pushing out more material. A clogged nozzle can ruin your print and waste your time and filament.

But what if the problem is not really a clogged nozzle, but something else? I will explain how improper tension on the extruder can masquerade as a clogged nozzle, and how to fix it.

The extruder is the part of the 3D printer that feeds the filament into the hot end, where it is melted and extruded through the nozzle. The extruder has a spring-loaded mechanism that applies pressure on the filament, pushing it against a drive gear or a hobbed bolt. This pressure is called tension, and it is essential for the extruder to work properly.

If the tension is too low, the drive gear or the hobbed bolt may slip on the filament, causing under-extrusion or skipping steps. This can result in gaps, holes, or weak layers in your print. If the tension is too high, the drive gear or the hobbed bolt may dig into the filament, causing over-extrusion or grinding. This can result in blobs, strings, or jams in your print.

Both under-extrusion and over-extrusion can look like a clogged nozzle, because they affect the amount and quality of material that comes out of the nozzle. However, a clogged nozzle is usually caused by a different issue, such as a dirty nozzle, a partial blockage, or a heat creep.

So how can you tell if your problem is really a clogged nozzle, or an improper tension on the extruder? Here are some tips:

  • Check your filament. If you see signs of grinding or slipping on the filament, such as flat spots, gouges, or dust, then your tension is likely too high or too low.
  • Check your extruder. If you hear clicking or popping noises from the extruder, then your tension is likely too high or too low.
  • Check your nozzle. If you see material oozing out of the nozzle when it is not printing, then your tension is likely too high. If you see no material coming out of the nozzle when it is printing, then your tension is likely too low.
  • Do a cold pull. A cold pull is a technique to clean your nozzle by heating it up, inserting a piece of filament, letting it cool down, and then pulling it out with force. If you see a clean tip on the filament after doing a cold pull, then your nozzle is not clogged.
  • Adjust your tension. Depending on your extruder model, you may have a screw, a knob, or a lever to adjust the tension on the filament. You want to find a balance between too much and too little pressure. A good rule of thumb is to make sure that the drive gear or the hobbed bolt leaves slight marks on the filament, but not deep enough to damage it.

One of the cool things about being alive in the internet era is that it is very easy to learn from the mistakes of others without having to go through the “School of Hard Knocks” for everything. 3d printing is no exception. In this case, you get to learn from me what I should have learned from others.

A couple of weeks ago one of my FDM printers stopped working. I looked at it quickly and saw that the nozzle was clogged. I attempted to clear the clog, and when it didn’t start working properly I decided to put it into the “I’ll get to it later” category.

This weekend was “later” and I needed the printer back online, so I decided it was time.

I realized that there were two issues. The extruder wasn’t feeding and the nozzle was clogged. Knowing that these issues are sometimes related, I separated the bowden tube from the hotend to help me diagnose which end was causing the problem. It seemed to me that there was an issue on both ends. The extruder wasn’t feeding correctly and the nozzle was clogged. Great. Seemed like heat creep to me so I started investigating into sources for heat. My fans are old, maybe one of them is clogged or not working right. Fans cleaned, no clogs found. Next, I sorted out the nozzle. I ended up replacing it. It worked!

I tried a test print. My joy was short-lived when it quickly clogged up again.

I decided to turn towards the extruder. I took it apart. Everything seemed normal. The motor gear was a little worn, but still in pretty good shape. Back to the hotend.

I pulled the heat block off and disassembled the hotend components. I quickly discovered that the new nozzle that I had put on the hotend had a shorter thread than my last one. The impact of this being that there was a gap between the nozzle and the heat break inside of the heat block. This meant that when the filament heated up it would be able to creep out, and that’s exactly what it did. Sigh. I realized what I had done. I had replaced the correct component the first time (the nozzle), but I had replaced it and caused another problem, and now my entire hotend has melted black filament on it.

Fortunately, I keep a few spare components on hand. I had a spare heat block, heat break, and nozzle. I put them on, making sure to properly hot-tighten the nozzle this time, and I was back in business.

Double check everything. Take your time. Make sure that you put the right components on. Make sure that you are solving the right problem.

Have you ever started a 3d print, only to come back a few hours later to find that your nozzle in midair with nothing being extruded from it? Then you fix the clog, only to have the same thing happen? If so, you might have encountered heat creep. This is when heat from the hot end travels up the filament and causes it to melt before it reaches the nozzle. This can result in clogs, underextrusion, and poor print quality.

How can you recognize heat creep? Some symptoms include:

  • Filament grinding or slipping in the extruder
  • Filament oozing out of the nozzle when not printing
  • Filament snapping or breaking during printing
  • Inconsistent extrusion or gaps in layers
  • Nozzle jamming or clicking noises

Heat creep can be caused by various factors, such as:

  • Printing at too high temperature
  • Poor cooling of the hot end or heat sink
  • Improper insulation of the hot end
  • Faulty or dirty fans
  • Low-quality or incompatible filament

Fortunately, heat creep can be prevented or fixed with some simple solutions, such as:

  • Lowering the printing temperature to the minimum recommended for your filament
  • Increasing the cooling of the hot end or heat sink with better fans or ducts
  • Adding thermal paste or silicone socks to the hot end to improve insulation
  • Cleaning or replacing the fans regularly to ensure optimal airflow
  • Using high-quality and compatible filament that matches your printer settings

If you are new to 3D printing, you might encounter some problems with your prints that can be frustrating and confusing. One of the most common issues is a clogged nozzle, which can affect the quality and accuracy of your prints. In this blog post, I will explain how to diagnose a clogged nozzle and what symptoms to look for on your 3D printed part.

A clogged nozzle is when the filament gets stuck or blocked inside the nozzle, preventing it from extruding properly. This can happen for various reasons, such as using low-quality filament, printing at the wrong temperature, or having dust or debris in the nozzle.

A clogged nozzle can cause several problems with your prints, such as under-extrusion, stringing, blobs, gaps, or layer shifts. These symptoms can ruin your print and waste your time and filament. It is important to diagnose a clogged nozzle as soon as possible and fix it before it gets worse.

The good news is that diagnosing a clogged nozzle is not very difficult. You just need to pay attention to some signs that indicate that something is wrong with your nozzle. Here are some of the most common symptoms of a clogged nozzle:

  • Under-extrusion: This is when the nozzle does not extrude enough filament to fill the gaps between the layers or the perimeters. This results in thin or missing walls, weak infill, or holes in the print.
  • Stringing: This is when the nozzle oozes filament during travel moves, creating thin strings or hairs between different parts of the print. This can make your print look messy and require post-processing to remove them.
  • Blobs: This is when the nozzle extrudes too much filament at certain points, creating bumps or lumps on the surface of the print. This can affect the smoothness and accuracy of your print and make it look unprofessional.
  • Gaps: This is when the nozzle skips or misses some parts of the print, leaving empty spaces or holes in the model. This can compromise the integrity and functionality of your print and make it look incomplete.
  • Layer shifts: This is when the nozzle moves out of alignment during printing, causing the layers to shift or misalign. This can distort the shape and dimensions of your print and make it unusable.

If you notice any of these symptoms on your 3D printed part, check your nozzle for clogging and either fix or replace the nozzle.

A clogged nozzle is one of the most common problems that can affect your 3D printer. It can cause poor print quality, filament jams, and even damage your printer. I talk a lot about how to fix something after something has gone wrong, but I realized that it would be much better to explain how to avoid having a problem in the first place.

The first step is to choose the right filament for your printer. Different filaments have different melting temperatures, flow rates, and properties. Some filaments, such as ABS, PLA, and PETG, are easy to print with and have low chances of clogging. Other filaments, such as wood, metal, or glow-in-the-dark, have additives that can increase the risk of clogging. If you want to use these filaments, make sure you have a nozzle that can handle them, such as a hardened steel or ruby nozzle.

The second step is to clean your nozzle regularly. You can use a needle or a wire to poke through the nozzle hole and remove any debris or filament residue. You can also use a cold pull technique, which involves heating up the nozzle, inserting a piece of filament, letting it cool down slightly, and then pulling it out with a quick motion. This can help remove any material that is stuck inside the nozzle.

The third step is to calibrate your printer settings. You should check your extrusion multiplier, retraction distance, retraction speed, and temperature settings. These settings affect how much filament is pushed through the nozzle and how fast it cools down. If these settings are too high or too low, they can cause over-extrusion or under-extrusion, which can lead to clogging. You can use a calibration cube or a test print to fine-tune your settings and achieve optimal results.

If you have ever experienced a partial clog on your 3D printer, you know how frustrating it can be. A partial clog is when the filament does not flow smoothly through the nozzle, resulting in under-extrusion, poor print quality, and sometimes even nozzle jams. We will explain what causes a partial clog, how to identify it, and how to fix it.

What causes a partial clog?

A partial clog can be caused by various factors, such as:

  • Using low-quality or incompatible filament that contains impurities, moisture, or inconsistent diameter.
  • Printing at a wrong temperature that is too high or too low for the filament type.
  • Printing at a wrong speed that is too fast or too slow for the nozzle size and layer height.
  • Leaving the nozzle heated for too long without extruding any filament, causing heat creep and filament degradation.
  • Not cleaning the nozzle regularly or properly, allowing dust, debris, or burnt filament to accumulate inside.

How to identify a partial clog?

A partial clog can manifest itself in different ways, depending on the severity and location of the blockage. Some common signs of a partial clog are:

  • The extruder motor skipping steps or making clicking noises.
  • The filament curling or bending at the nozzle tip instead of coming out straight.
  • The filament coming out thinner or thicker than usual, or with gaps or blobs.
  • The print surface showing signs of under-extrusion, such as missing layers, holes, or roughness.
  • The print quality deteriorating over time, especially on long prints.

How to fix a partial clog?

The best way to fix a partial clog is to prevent it from happening in the first place by using high-quality and compatible filament, printing at the optimal settings for your printer and material, and cleaning the nozzle regularly and properly. However, if you already have a partial clog, here are some steps you can try to clear it:

  • Increase the nozzle temperature by 5-10°C and try to extrude some filament manually. This may help to melt any hardened or stuck filament inside the nozzle.
  • Use a needle or a wire to poke through the nozzle hole and dislodge any debris or burnt filament. Be careful not to damage the nozzle or the heating element.
  • Perform a cold pull or an atomic pull. This is a technique where you heat up the nozzle, insert a piece of filament, let it cool down slightly, and then pull it out quickly with a pair of pliers. This may help to pull out any residue or impurities from the nozzle along with the filament.
  • Replace the nozzle with a new one. This is the last resort if none of the above methods work. Make sure to use a nozzle that matches your printer model and filament type.

Sometimes extruder problems are truly extruder problems. When there is a clogged nozzle problem, your extruder won’t be able to push more filament through and your extruder gears will often start making a clicking noise, leading you to start your troubleshooting diagnosis with the extruder.

For troubleshooting, see if you can isolate the extruder from the nozzle. For a Bowden tube setup, this is pretty simple. Just pull out the Bowden tube and see if the extruder works. For a direct drive system, it’s a little more difficult, but you can just pull of the nozzle and see if the extruder works then. Then, if the extruder suddenly starts working correctly you will know that the problem is with the hotend. If it still doesn’t work, then you know that the problem is with the extruder.

I saw a question from a new 3d printer who was asking about their filament not being pushed through, but they were definitely able to see the gears on the extruder turning. It is possible that the filament tensioner at the extruder end is not tight enough and not gripping the filament. The other possibility is a clogged nozzle. If you end up with this condition, an easy way to unclog your nozzle that works 75% of the time is to heat up the nozzle to 260 and then push the filament through by hand. Usually this removes the clog. If this doesn’t work, you will need to unclog it by following the steps in one of my previous posts: https://www.3dprinterrx.com/clogged-nozzle/