Category: First Layer

Tools You’ll Need

  • A hex key or screwdriver (depending on your printer’s bed screw type)
  • A piece of standard printer paper
  • Your 3D printer’s control interface (for moving the print head)

Step 1: Preheat Your Printer

Preheating your 3D printer to its typical printing temperature is crucial for accurate bed leveling. Temperature variations can cause the bed to expand or contract, affecting the leveling process. Preheat both the nozzle and the bed to ensure all components are at their working temperature.

Step 2: Home the Print Head

Use your printer’s control interface to home the print head. This positions the print head at its starting point, ensuring that the bed leveling process is consistent from one corner to the other.

Step 3: Disable Stepper Motors

After homing the print head, disable the stepper motors (usually through a menu option on your printer). This allows you to manually move the print head and bed without affecting their positions in the printer’s memory.

Step 4: Adjust the Bed Screws

  1. Position the nozzle over the first corner of the bed. Manually move the print head so the nozzle is positioned over the first adjustment screw at one corner of the bed.
  2. Use the paper method. Slide a piece of standard printer paper between the nozzle and the bed. You should feel a slight resistance when moving the paper. If the paper moves too freely, the bed is too low. If you can’t move the paper, the bed is too high.
  3. Adjust the screw. Using the hex key or screwdriver, turn the adjustment screw to raise or lower the bed. Clockwise turns will lower the bed (if the screw is on top of the bed) or raise it (if the screw is underneath), and counterclockwise turns will do the opposite. Adjust until you feel slight resistance on the paper.
  4. Repeat for all corners. Move the print head to each corner of the bed, repeating the adjustment process. It may take a few rounds of adjustments to get the level just right, as changing one corner can affect the others.

Step 5: Check the Center of the Bed

Once all corners are adjusted, move the nozzle to the center of the bed and check the resistance with the paper again. The center should also have slight resistance. If not, you may need to adjust the corners again or consider using a glass bed or bed leveling sensor for more uniform leveling.

Step 6: Test with a Print

After leveling, it’s a good idea to run a test print. Choose a design with a large, flat bottom layer to help you see how evenly it adheres across the entire bed.

Final Thoughts

Adjusting the bed screws on your 3D printer is a vital step in achieving the perfect first layer and ensuring successful prints. While it might seem tedious at first, with practice, it will become a quick and routine part of your printing process. Happy printing!

In the world of 3D printing, achieving the perfect print is akin to an art form, requiring precision, patience, and a keen eye for detail. One fundamental aspect often overlooked by novices and seasoned enthusiasts alike is the importance of keeping the 3D printer bed level. This seemingly minor detail can significantly impact the quality of your prints.

The Importance of a Level Bed

Preventing Warping and Misprints: A level bed ensures the first layer of your print adheres evenly across the surface. An uneven bed can lead to parts of the print not sticking to the bed, causing warping or complete print failures.

Enhancing Adhesion: Good adhesion is crucial for a successful print. A level bed ensures uniform contact between the print and the bed, reducing the chances of the print coming loose mid-process.

Improving Print Quality: A level bed contributes to consistent layer height. This uniformity is essential for achieving smooth surfaces and accurate dimensions in your prints, especially for detailed models.

Tips for Maintaining a Level Bed

  1. Regular Checks: Before each print, do a quick check to ensure the bed is level. Environmental changes can affect bed leveling over time.
  2. Use the Right Tools: Utilize feeler gauges or a piece of paper to check the gap between the nozzle and the bed at various points.
  3. Follow Manufacturer Instructions: Each printer has its method for bed leveling. Familiarize yourself with your printer’s specific process for best results.
  4. Consider Upgrades: If you’re struggling with leveling, consider upgrading to a printer with auto-leveling features or adding an aftermarket auto-leveling sensor.

Maintaining a level 3D printer bed is a critical yet often overlooked aspect of 3D printing. Regular checks and adjustments can vastly improve print adherence, quality, and success rates. By incorporating these practices into your 3D printing routine, you’ll notice a significant improvement in your prints and reduce the frustration of failed prints due to leveling issues.

The speed of the first layer is important because it determines how well the filament sticks to the bed and how smooth the surface of your print will be. However, setting the speed too high can cause some problems that can affect the quality and durability of your print. Today, I will explain what happens if your speed is set too high for the first layer, and how to fix it.

Some symptoms of a too high speed for the first layer are:

  • Poor adhesion: The filament might not stick well to the bed, resulting in warping, curling, or detachment of the print.
  • Rough surface: The filament might not have enough time to melt and spread evenly on the bed, resulting in a rough and uneven surface.
  • Under-extrusion: The filament might not flow fast enough to keep up with the nozzle movement, resulting in gaps or holes in the print.
  • Overheating: The nozzle might get too hot due to the fast movement, resulting in clogging, stringing, or oozing of the filament.

Some ways to remedy a too high speed for the first layer are:

  • Lower the speed: The most obvious solution is to lower the speed of the first layer, either by adjusting the settings in your slicer software or by using the knob on your printer. A good rule of thumb is to set the speed to 50% or less of your normal printing speed for the first layer.
  • Increase the temperature: Another way to improve the adhesion and flow of the filament is to increase the temperature of the nozzle and/or the bed. This will help the filament melt faster and stick better to the bed. However, be careful not to set the temperature too high, as this can cause other problems such as burning or warping of the filament.
  • Level the bed: A properly leveled bed is essential for a good first layer. If your bed is too high or too low, it can affect how well the filament sticks to it and how smooth the surface will be. You can use a piece of paper or a feeler gauge to check the distance between the nozzle and the bed at different points, and adjust it accordingly.
  • Calibrate the extruder: Another factor that can affect the speed of the first layer is how much filament is extruded by your printer. If your extruder is under-extruding or over-extruding, it can cause gaps or blobs in your print. You can calibrate your extruder by measuring how much filament is fed by your printer when you command it to extrude a certain length, and adjusting the steps per millimeter (E-steps) value in your firmware or slicer software.

If you own a 3D printer, you may have encountered a frustrating problem: the bed level undoing itself. This can result in poor print quality, wasted filament, and even damage to your printer.

One possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is thermal expansion. As the printer heats up, the metal parts expand and contract, which can affect the alignment of the bed and the nozzle. To prevent this, you should make sure that your printer is in a stable environment, with minimal temperature fluctuations. Bring your bed to the proper temperature and let it heatsoak for a few minutes.

There are screws that go through the center of the bedsprings with nuts at the end of them. Check the screws and springs that hold the bed in place, and tighten them if they are loose.

Another possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is vibration. As the printer moves, it can generate vibrations that can loosen the screws and springs that hold the bed in place. To prevent this, you should make sure that your printer is on a solid and level surface, and that it is not exposed to external sources of vibration, such as fans or speakers. You should also check the belts and pulleys that drive the printer’s motion, and adjust them if they are too loose or too tight.

A third possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is wear and tear. Over time, the parts of your printer can wear out or break, which can affect the bed level. For example, the springs that hold the bed in place can lose their tension, or the bearings that guide the motion of the printer can wear out. To prevent this, you should regularly inspect your printer for signs of damage or wear, and replace any parts that are faulty or worn out.

A simple solution that many people opt for is to change out their springs for better quality springs or silicone spacers. They are relatively inexpensive and provide much better support than most factory installed springs.

One last thing to check is the z axis limit switch(es). If the machine homes too high above the build plate, there may not be enough tension on the springs to keep it in place properly. Resetting the limit switch(es) can help by applying tension on the springs and stabilizing the bed height.

If you ever go online to 3d printing chat rooms or help forums, you will inevitably have seen someone describe a problem with their 3d print to which someone will reply “your nozzle is too close to the bed.” What does this mean and what should you do about it?

When the nozzle of a 3D printer is too close to the bed, it can cause several issues.

  • The nozzle can scrape against the bed.
  • The nozzle can drag against the extruded filament and end up dislodging your part.
  • The nozzle can drag against the top of the layer and create a very rough first layer.

If you notice any of these issues with your printer or with your print you have a few options.

  • You can adjust the Z-axis offset
  • Relevel your bed
  • Lower your bed (also requires releveling)

Your first layer in 3d printing is everything. It’s the layer that ties your print to the bed…or not. If you don’t get your first layer down right then there’s a good chance your print will not be successful. So what should you be looking for in a first layer?

To achieve a perfect first layer, you need to consider three main aspects: bed surface preparation, bed leveling, and calibration.

Bed surface preparation involves cleaning and preparing the bed for maximum adhesion with your chosen filament.

Bed leveling involves adjusting the distance between the nozzle and the bed so that it is consistent across the entire print area. If the nozzle is too close to the bed, it will squish the filament too much and create a rough and thin first layer. If the nozzle is too far from the bed, it will extrude too much filament and create a loose and uneven first layer. You can level your bed manually by using a piece of paper or a feeler gauge as a spacer between the nozzle and the bed, and turning the knobs or screws on each corner of the bed until you feel a slight resistance. Alternatively, you can use an automatic bed leveling sensor or probe that measures the distance between the nozzle and the bed at multiple points and compensates for any irregularities.

Calibration involves fine-tuning your settings such as first layer height, first layer speed, first layer temperature, and first layer line width to optimize your first layer quality. These settings can vary depending on your printer model, filament type, and personal preference, but here are some general guidelines:

  • First layer height: A lower first layer height (such as 50% or 75%) can improve adhesion and smoothness, but it may also increase the risk of clogging or over-extrusion. A higher first layer height (such as 100% or 125%) can reduce print time and material usage, but it may also decrease adhesion and accuracy.
  • First layer speed: A lower first layer speed (such as 25% or 50%) can improve adhesion and accuracy, but it may also increase print time and stringing. A higher first layer speed (such as 75% or 100%) can reduce print time and stringing, but it may also decrease adhesion and quality.
  • First layer temperature: A higher first layer temperature (such as 5°C or 10°C above your normal print temperature) can improve adhesion and flow, but it may also increase warping and oozing. A lower first layer temperature (such as 5°C or 10°C below your normal print temperature) can reduce warping and oozing, but it may also decrease adhesion and flow.
  • First layer line width: A higher first layer line width (such as 120% or 150%) can improve adhesion and coverage, but it may also increase the risk of over-extrusion or elephant foot. A lower first layer line width (such as 80% or 100%) can reduce the risk of over-extrusion or elephant foot, but it may also decrease adhesion and coverage.

Level the bed, print. Turn off the printer for the night. Try to print. Bed needs to be leveled. Level the bed. Print. Turn off the printer for the night. Repeat. If this is happening to you, your bed may be wobbly because the D rings are loose. A lot of times, the adjustments will be stable until the printer is turned off and turned back on. It will seem like your bed is constantly losing its level. This is because…well…it is. Most beds ride on a series of bearings that ride in a track or v-groove. To adjust the tightness of these bearings to the track many manufacturers use a D ring, which is a ring that fits in the middle of the bearing to hold it in place, but it has a hole that is off-center so that it can be adjusted.

The D rings are usually located on the four corners of the bed, and they have screws that can be tightened or loosened to adjust the tension of the bed. Here are the steps to adjust the D rings on a 3D printer bed that is loose:

  1. Turn off the printer and let the bed cool down completely. Do not touch the bed when it is hot, as you may burn yourself or damage the bed surface.
  2. Locate the D rings under the surface of the bed. You may need to remove the print surface or the glass plate to access them.
  3. Use a screwdriver or an Allen wrench to loosen the screws on the D rings slightly. Do not remove them completely, as you may lose them or damage the bed.
  4. Gently lift one corner of the bed and check if it is loose or tight. If needed, rotate the D rings to adjust the tightness against the track.
  5. At their proper tightness, the D rings will prevent the bed from wobbling, but will not inhibit the bed from moving back and forth.
  6. Replace the print surface or the glass plate and turn on the printer.
  7. Perform a bed leveling procedure to ensure that the bed is flat and even. You can use a piece of paper or a feeler gauge to check if there is a consistent gap between the nozzle and the bed on all four corners.
  8. Print a test model and check if the print quality has improved. If not, you may need to adjust the D rings again or check for other issues with your printer.

Adjusting the D rings on a 3D printer bed that is loose can help you improve your print quality and prevent your bed from wobbling or shifting during printing. It is a simple and quick fix that you can do yourself with some basic tools. However, if you are not comfortable with tinkering with your printer, you may want to consult a professional or contact your printer manufacturer for assistance.

Have you ever wondered why your 3D prints sometimes don’t stick to the bed or have warped edges? One possible reason is that your bed is not properly warmed up before you start printing. Sometimes, you need to let your bed “soak” for a little while before you begin printing.

The bed of a 3D printer is usually made of metal, glass, or plastic, and it is heated by a heating element underneath. The purpose of heating the bed is to provide a stable and smooth surface for the first layer of the print to adhere to, and to prevent thermal contraction of the material as it cools down. However, heating the bed also causes it to expand and contract slightly, which can affect its shape and flatness.

Depending on the material and thickness of the bed, it can take some time for the bed to reach a uniform temperature and stabilize its shape. If you start printing too soon, the bed may still be flexing and adjusting its shape as it warms up, which can cause uneven adhesion, gaps, or curling of the first layer. This can ruin the quality of your print or even make it fail completely.

To avoid this problem, you should always preheat your bed before you start printing. You can do this by setting the bed temperature in your slicer software or on your printer’s LCD screen, and waiting for a few minutes until the temperature is reached and stable. I’ve found it very helpful to set my hotend and bed temperatures, and then go get a cup of coffee. I’ve found that the time it takes me to do this is good enough for the bed to be thoroughly heated, not just heated where the sensor itself is. If you want a more technical answer you can use a thermometer or an infrared camera to check the temperature distribution on the bed surface and make sure it is consistent.

By preheating your bed properly, you can ensure that your first layer sticks well and that your print has a solid foundation. This will improve the quality and reliability of your 3D prints and save you time and frustration. So next time you are ready to print something, don’t forget to get a cup of coffee!

Z offset is a term that refers to the distance between the nozzle of your 3D printer and the print bed. It is an important parameter that affects the quality and adhesion of your prints. If the Z offset is too high, the nozzle will be too far from the bed and the first layer will not stick well. If the Z offset is too low, the nozzle will be too close to the bed and may scratch it or cause extrusion problems.

The first step is to measure your current Z offset. You can do this by printing a test pattern, such as a single-layer square or circle, and observing how it looks on the bed. Ideally, you want the first layer to be slightly squished and have a smooth surface. If the first layer is too thin or has gaps, your Z offset is too high. If the first layer is too thick or has blobs, your Z offset is too low.

To adjust your Z offset, you need to access your printer’s firmware settings. Depending on your printer model and software, you may have different ways to do this. Some printers have a menu option that allows you to change the Z offset directly. Others require you to use a terminal program or a G-code command to modify the Z offset value. You can find more information about your specific printer in its manual or online forums.

Once you have access to your Z offset setting, you can increase or decrease it by small increments, such as 0.01 mm or 0.05 mm. The direction of the adjustment depends on whether you need to raise or lower your nozzle. For example, if your Z offset is too high, you need to lower your nozzle by decreasing the Z offset value. If your Z offset is too low, you need to raise your nozzle by increasing the Z offset value.

After each adjustment, you should print another test pattern and check the first layer quality. Repeat this process until you find the optimal Z offset for your printer and filament. You may need to fine-tune your Z offset for different materials or environmental conditions, as they can affect the extrusion and adhesion of your prints.

Getting the print to stick to the bed is a common challenge for 3D printer users. If the print does not adhere well, it can warp, curl, or detach during printing. To avoid this, many users apply some adhesive to the bed before printing. But what kind of adhesive should you use? And how do you apply it correctly? Here are some of the most popular adhesives for 3D printing and their pros and cons.

A glue stick is a cheap and easy option that works for most filaments and beds. You just need to apply a thin layer of glue stick to the bed in a circular motion. Glue stick provides good adhesion and can be removed with water or alcohol. However, glue stick can leave a residue on the print, affect its appearance or quality, and dry out over time.

Hairspray is a spray-on product that contains polymers that bond to the bed and the filament when heated. Hairspray works for PLA and ABS filaments and can be used on glass, metal, or plastic beds. You just need to spray a thin and even layer of hairspray on the bed before heating it up. Hairspray provides strong adhesion and can smooth out minor imperfections on the bed. However, hairspray can be messy, sticky, clog the nozzle or fan of your printer, and be difficult to remove from the bed and the print.

Painter’s tape is a type of masking tape that has a low-tack adhesive that does not leave any residue. Painter’s tape works for PLA and PETG filaments and can be used on glass, metal, or plastic beds. You just need to cut strips of tape and apply them to the bed in parallel lines, overlapping them slightly. Painter’s tape provides decent adhesion and can be removed by peeling it off. However, painter’s tape can wear out quickly, need to be replaced often, and affect the texture and appearance of the bottom layer of your print.

These are some of the most popular adhesives for 3D printing, but there are others. You may also want to try Kapton tape, PEI sheet, Magigoo, BuildTak, or 3DLac. The best adhesive for you may depend on your preference, filament type, bed material, printer settings, and budget. You may also want to experiment with different adhesives and techniques to find what works best for you. The key is to ensure that your print sticks well without causing any damage or difficulty in removal.