Author: Jonathan van Heijzen

Level the bed, print. Turn off the printer for the night. Try to print. Bed needs to be leveled. Level the bed. Print. Turn off the printer for the night. Repeat. If this is happening to you, your bed may be wobbly because the D rings are loose. A lot of times, the adjustments will be stable until the printer is turned off and turned back on. It will seem like your bed is constantly losing its level. This is because…well…it is. Most beds ride on a series of bearings that ride in a track or v-groove. To adjust the tightness of these bearings to the track many manufacturers use a D ring, which is a ring that fits in the middle of the bearing to hold it in place, but it has a hole that is off-center so that it can be adjusted.

The D rings are usually located on the four corners of the bed, and they have screws that can be tightened or loosened to adjust the tension of the bed. Here are the steps to adjust the D rings on a 3D printer bed that is loose:

  1. Turn off the printer and let the bed cool down completely. Do not touch the bed when it is hot, as you may burn yourself or damage the bed surface.
  2. Locate the D rings under the surface of the bed. You may need to remove the print surface or the glass plate to access them.
  3. Use a screwdriver or an Allen wrench to loosen the screws on the D rings slightly. Do not remove them completely, as you may lose them or damage the bed.
  4. Gently lift one corner of the bed and check if it is loose or tight. If needed, rotate the D rings to adjust the tightness against the track.
  5. At their proper tightness, the D rings will prevent the bed from wobbling, but will not inhibit the bed from moving back and forth.
  6. Replace the print surface or the glass plate and turn on the printer.
  7. Perform a bed leveling procedure to ensure that the bed is flat and even. You can use a piece of paper or a feeler gauge to check if there is a consistent gap between the nozzle and the bed on all four corners.
  8. Print a test model and check if the print quality has improved. If not, you may need to adjust the D rings again or check for other issues with your printer.

Adjusting the D rings on a 3D printer bed that is loose can help you improve your print quality and prevent your bed from wobbling or shifting during printing. It is a simple and quick fix that you can do yourself with some basic tools. However, if you are not comfortable with tinkering with your printer, you may want to consult a professional or contact your printer manufacturer for assistance.

A part cooling fan helps to cool down the extruded filament and improve the print quality. However, sometimes the fan may stop working or malfunction, causing various problems such as warping, stringing, or poor surface finish. I want to show you how to troubleshoot 3D printer part cooling fans and fix some common issues.

The first thing you need to do is to check if the fan is spinning at all. You can do this by turning on your 3D printer and looking at the fan. If the fan is not spinning, there may be a problem with the power supply, the wiring, or the fan itself. To test the power supply, you can use a multimeter to measure the voltage across the fan terminals. The voltage should be around 12V or 24V, depending on your printer model. If the voltage is too low or too high, you may need to replace the power supply or adjust the voltage regulator.

If the power supply is fine, you can check the wiring for any loose connections, broken wires, or short circuits. You can use a continuity tester to check if there is a complete circuit between the fan terminals and the power supply. If there is no continuity, you may need to solder or replace the wires. If there is continuity, but the fan still does not spin, you may have a faulty fan. You can try to spin the fan manually and see if it rotates smoothly. If it feels stiff or makes noise, you may need to lubricate or replace the fan.

If the fan is spinning, but not enough to cool down the part, you may have a problem with the fan speed, the fan duct, or the print settings. To test the fan speed, you can use a tachometer to measure the revolutions per minute (RPM) of the fan. The RPM should be around 3000 to 5000, depending on your printer model. If the RPM is too low, you may need to increase the fan speed in your slicer settings or replace the fan with a more powerful one.

If the fan speed is fine, you can check the fan duct for any blockages, cracks, or misalignments. The fan duct is the part that directs the airflow from the fan to the nozzle and the part. You can use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the duct and see if there is any dust, debris, or filament stuck inside. You can also check if the duct is cracked or broken and if it is aligned properly with the nozzle and the part. If there is any problem with the duct, you may need to clean, repair, or replace it.

Finally, you can check your print settings for any factors that may affect the cooling performance. Some of these factors are:

  • Layer height: A lower layer height means more layers and more time for cooling.
  • Print speed: A slower print speed means more time for cooling.
  • Fan speed: A higher fan speed means more airflow and more cooling.
  • Minimum layer time: A longer minimum layer time means more time for cooling.
  • Cooling threshold: A lower cooling threshold means more layers with full cooling.
  • Bridging settings: Bridging settings control how much cooling is applied when printing overhangs.

You can experiment with different combinations of these settings and see which one gives you the best results. You can also use some online tools or guides to help you optimize your settings for different materials and models.

If you are using the same settings on your 3D printer, but all of a sudden your prints start failing, you might be wondering what is going on. Here are some possible causes and solutions to troubleshoot your 3D printing problems.

  • Check the filament. Sometimes the filament can get tangled, kinked, or broken, which can affect the quality of your prints. Make sure the filament is feeding smoothly and evenly into the extruder. If the filament is brittle or has moisture in it, you might need to replace it or dry it out.
  • Check the nozzle. The nozzle is the part that melts and deposits the filament onto the print bed. If the nozzle is clogged, dirty, or damaged, it can cause under-extrusion, blobs, stringing, or other issues. You can try to clean the nozzle with a needle or a wire brush, or replace it if it is worn out.
  • Check the bed leveling. The bed leveling is the process of adjusting the distance between the nozzle and the print bed. If the bed is not level, it can cause the first layer to be uneven, which can affect the adhesion and accuracy of your prints. You can use a piece of paper or a feeler gauge to check the gap between the nozzle and the bed at different points, and adjust the screws or knobs accordingly.
  • Check the temperature. The temperature is one of the most important factors that affect the quality of your prints. If the temperature is too high or too low, it can cause warping, cracking, stringing, or other issues. You can use a thermometer or a thermal camera to check the temperature of the nozzle and the bed, and adjust them according to the recommended settings for your filament type and model.
  • Check the speed. The speed is another factor that affects the quality of your prints. If the speed is too fast or too slow, it can cause over-extrusion, under-extrusion, ringing, or other issues. You can use a stopwatch or a software to check the speed of your printer, and adjust it according to the complexity and size of your model.

If you are using Klipper as your firmware for 3D printing, you might be wondering how to get the best performance out of your machine. One way to improve the quality of your prints is to upgrade your Raspberry Pi, the device that runs Klipper and communicates with your printer. Here are some reasons why upgrading your Raspberry Pi can make a difference.

First, a newer Raspberry Pi model will have more processing power and memory than an older one. This means that it can handle more complex calculations and commands, which are essential for Klipper’s features such as pressure advance, input shaping, and mesh bed leveling. A faster Raspberry Pi can also reduce the latency and jitter in the communication between the Pi and the printer, which can affect the smoothness and accuracy of the movements.

Second, a newer Raspberry Pi model will have more connectivity options and ports than an older one. This means that you can connect more devices and peripherals to your Pi, such as a webcam, a touchscreen, or a USB drive. You can also use a faster network connection, such as Wi-Fi or Ethernet, to transfer files and control your printer remotely. A more connected Raspberry Pi can enhance your 3D printing experience and make it more convenient and flexible.

Third, a newer Raspberry Pi model will have better software support and compatibility than an older one. This means that you can run the latest version of Klipper and its dependencies, such as Python and Linux, without any issues or errors. You can also benefit from the updates and bug fixes that are regularly released by the Klipper developers and the Raspberry Pi Foundation. A more updated Raspberry Pi can ensure that your 3D printing system is stable and secure.

Have you ever wondered why your 3D prints sometimes don’t stick to the bed or have warped edges? One possible reason is that your bed is not properly warmed up before you start printing. Sometimes, you need to let your bed “soak” for a little while before you begin printing.

The bed of a 3D printer is usually made of metal, glass, or plastic, and it is heated by a heating element underneath. The purpose of heating the bed is to provide a stable and smooth surface for the first layer of the print to adhere to, and to prevent thermal contraction of the material as it cools down. However, heating the bed also causes it to expand and contract slightly, which can affect its shape and flatness.

Depending on the material and thickness of the bed, it can take some time for the bed to reach a uniform temperature and stabilize its shape. If you start printing too soon, the bed may still be flexing and adjusting its shape as it warms up, which can cause uneven adhesion, gaps, or curling of the first layer. This can ruin the quality of your print or even make it fail completely.

To avoid this problem, you should always preheat your bed before you start printing. You can do this by setting the bed temperature in your slicer software or on your printer’s LCD screen, and waiting for a few minutes until the temperature is reached and stable. I’ve found it very helpful to set my hotend and bed temperatures, and then go get a cup of coffee. I’ve found that the time it takes me to do this is good enough for the bed to be thoroughly heated, not just heated where the sensor itself is. If you want a more technical answer you can use a thermometer or an infrared camera to check the temperature distribution on the bed surface and make sure it is consistent.

By preheating your bed properly, you can ensure that your first layer sticks well and that your print has a solid foundation. This will improve the quality and reliability of your 3D prints and save you time and frustration. So next time you are ready to print something, don’t forget to get a cup of coffee!

My daughter recently asked me to print something for her in two entirely different types of filaments. To do so would require me to change almost all of the settings partway through the printing process. Here is how I did it with the post processing script plugin for Cura. This plugin allows you to add custom g-code commands at specific layers or heights of your print, which can override the default settings of your slicer.

To use the post processing script plugin, you need to have Cura installed on your computer. You can download it from https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura. Once you have Cura open, load your model and slice it as usual. Then, go to the Extensions menu and select Post Processing > Modify G-Code. This will open a new window where you can add, edit, or delete scripts.

To add a new script, click on the Add a script button and choose one from the list. There are many scripts available, such as ChangeAtZ, PauseAtHeight, FilamentChange, etc. For this example, I will use the ChangeAtZ script, which lets you change any parameter at a given layer or height. After selecting the script, you will see a list of options that you can modify. For example, you can choose whether to trigger the script by layer or by height, what parameter to change, and what value to set it to. You can also add a comment to remind yourself what the script does.

For example, let’s say I want to change the temperature from 200°C to 220°C at layer 50 of my print. I would select the ChangeAtZ script and set the following options:

  • Trigger: Layer No.
  • Layer No.: 50
  • Behavior: Keep value
  • Change extruder 1 temp: True
  • Extruder 1 temp: 220
  • Comment: Increase temperature

This will insert a custom g-code command at layer 50 that will set the temperature of extruder 1 to 220°C and keep it until the end of the print. You can add multiple scripts if you want to change more than one parameter or change them multiple times during the print. You can also edit or delete scripts by clicking on the pencil or trash icons next to them.

Once you are done with adding scripts, click on Close and save your g-code file as usual. Then, transfer it to your printer and start printing. You should see your parameter changes take effect at the specified layers or heights of your print.

The post processing script plugin for Cura is a powerful tool that can help you fine-tune your prints and achieve better results. You can use it to experiment with different settings and see how they affect your print quality, speed, or appearance. You can also use it to create some interesting effects, such as changing colors, pausing for inserts, or adding text or logos. The possibilities are endless!

Hey, what’s up, fellow 3D printing enthusiasts? Today I want to talk to you about something very important: filament. You know, the stuff that makes your prints come to life. But did you know that not all filament is created equal? In fact, the characteristics of filament can vary significantly, and hence the settings that are used must also be updated. Let me explain.

Filament is made of different materials, such as PLA, ABS, PETG, etc. Each material has its own properties, such as melting point, strength, flexibility, etc. Depending on the material you use, you need to adjust your printer settings accordingly. For example, PLA usually prints well at around 200°C, while ABS needs a higher temperature of around 230°C. If you use the wrong temperature, you might end up with a print that is under-extruded, over-extruded, or warped.

But even within the same material, there can be variations in quality and consistency. For example, some filament brands might have more additives or impurities than others, which can affect the flow and adhesion of the filament. Some filament spools might have more moisture or dust than others, which can cause bubbles or clogs in the nozzle. Some filament colors might require different temperatures than others, due to the pigments used. All these factors can affect the quality of your prints.

So how do you deal with these variations? Well, the best way is to test your filament before you start printing. You can use a calibration cube or a temperature tower to find the optimal settings for your filament. You can also measure the diameter of your filament with a caliper and enter it in your slicer software. This will ensure that you get the right amount of extrusion and avoid under- or over-extrusion.

Another thing you can do is to store your filament properly. You should keep your filament in a dry and cool place, away from sunlight and moisture. You can also use a desiccant or a vacuum sealer to keep your filament dry. This will prevent your filament from absorbing moisture and degrading over time.

You can make sure that you get great results from your filament. Remember, filament is not just a consumable, it’s an essential part of your 3D printing process. So treat it well and it will treat you well too. Happy printing!

I love that 3d printing allows you to create physical objects from digital models. Despite what I thought when I got my first 3d printer, it is not as simple as pressing a button and watching your design come to life. There are many factors that affect the quality and outcome of your 3D prints, and one of the most important ones is the configuration settings.

Configuration settings are the parameters that control how your 3D printer operates, such as the temperature, speed, layer height, infill, retraction, and more. These settings can vary depending on the type of printer, filament, model, and desired result. They can also interact with each other in complex ways, so changing one setting can affect another.

One of the most common problems that 3D printing enthusiasts face is poor bed adhesion. This means that the first layer of your print does not stick to the print bed, causing it to warp, curl, or detach. This can ruin your entire print and waste time and material. There are many possible causes for poor bed adhesion, such as incorrect bed temperature, nozzle height, leveling, or surface preparation. However, even if you have all these factors right, you may still encounter this issue if your other configuration settings are not optimal.

For example, if your print speed is too high, your extruder may not be able to keep up with the demand and under-extrude filament. This can result in gaps or thin spots in your first layer, which can compromise its adhesion. Similarly, if your retraction settings are too aggressive, you may experience oozing or stringing, which can interfere with the smoothness and consistency of your first layer. If your layer height is too large or your infill is too sparse, you may not have enough material to form a solid base for your print.

It is essential to understand how all of your configuration settings work together and how they affect the quality of your 3D prints. You should always test and calibrate your printer before starting a new project, and adjust your settings according to the specific requirements of your model and filament. You should also use slicing software that allows you to preview and fine-tune your settings before sending them to your printer. By doing so, you can avoid common pitfalls and achieve successful 3D prints every time.

My situation:

I wasn’t necessarily looking for a nozzle upgrade. I had it on my Amazon wishlist as one of those “something I’ll purchase one day” items. When my birthday came around my family purchased it. In my case, I’m evaluating overall performance rather than trying to push the limits of speed on my machine or trying to print with some exotic filament.

First impression:

Compared to the hotend that came with my machine and the hotends that I’ve replaced it with over the years, the Spider is very heavy. A pet peeve of mine is that everything lines up. One thing that I don’t like about most hotends that I’ve used in the past is that their orientation is based on how tight you put everything together because it’s based on the rotation of the heat break. The Spider overcomes this with a couple of screws that determine the orientation. Overall, it seems to be a very well built hotend.

Installation:

Thinking it’s a drop in replacement for my current hotend, I remove my hotend and put the Spider on my printer. Then I notice that the JST connectors are incorrect for my machine, so I swap that all out so that I can provide power to it. Once I get the electronics set up I notice that the nozzle is an inch or so higher than my other hotend was. Rookie mistake. I remove the Spider, put my old hotend back on, and 3d print a spacer to set the nozzle at the right height. I need some longer screws too.

Printing:

Once I get the Spider set up at the right height, I did a PID tune and started printing. I’ve been printing with it for about a week now and I have to say that I like it so far. The prints come out extremely clean and just have a nice uniform look to them.

Calibration – Check

Go to print – big goopy mess

Change nozzle – Check

Calibration – Check

repeat

After a lot of frustration I saw the wires for my part cooling fan pop out of the connector and I immediately knew what the problem was. Ugh. I had spent so much time diagnosing the wrong issue. The wires were in enough that they looked like they were secure, but out enough that they intermittently got disconnected. So, when I would print I would sometimes end up with heat creep or a big goopy mess of filament.

Bought 500 JST connectors on Amazon for $8.99 and my problem is solved.

Lessons learned (or relearned):

  • the root cause isn’t always immediately obvious
  • check everything
  • if you’ve replaced the nozzle 3 times and you still have the same problem, the problem likely isn’t the nozzle