Author: Jonathan van Heijzen

What to Check for on Your 3D Printer Nozzle

The first thing you should do is inspect your nozzle visually. Look for any signs of damage, such as cracks, dents, or scratches. If you see any, you should replace your nozzle.

Next, you should check if your nozzle is clean and free of any debris or filament residue. To clean your nozzle, you can use a brass brush or a needle to gently remove any stuck material. You can also heat up your nozzle and wipe it.

Finally, you should check if your nozzle is aligned with your print bed.

How to Maintain Your 3D Printer Nozzle

To keep your nozzle in good condition, you should perform some regular maintenance tasks. Here are some tips:

  • Clean your nozzle after every print or before changing filaments. This will prevent clogging and filament jams.
  • Use high-quality filaments that are compatible with your nozzle size and material type. Avoid using abrasive filaments, such as metal-filled or glow-in-the-dark ones, unless you have a hardened steel nozzle.
  • Store your filaments in a dry and cool place. Moisture and heat can degrade your filaments and cause extrusion issues.
  • Replace your nozzle when it wears out or gets damaged. A worn-out nozzle can have a larger or irregular diameter, which can affect the accuracy and quality of your prints.

How to Calibrate Your 3D Printer Nozzle

To get the best results from your 3D printer, you should calibrate your nozzle regularly. Calibration involves setting the correct nozzle temperature, flow rate, and retraction settings for your filament type and print quality. Here are some steps:

  • Find the recommended temperature range for your filament type and brand. You can usually find this information on the filament spool or the manufacturer’s website.
  • Heat up your nozzle to the lowest temperature in the range and extrude some filament. Observe how the filament comes out of the nozzle. It should be smooth and consistent, without any bubbles, curls, or strings.
  • Increase the temperature by 5°C increments and repeat the extrusion test until you find the optimal temperature for your filament. The optimal temperature is the one that gives you the best extrusion quality without causing overheating or oozing.
  • Find the recommended flow rate for your filament type and brand. You can usually find this information on the filament spool or the manufacturer’s website.
  • Print a calibration cube or a single-wall vase with 100% infill and no top or bottom layers. Measure the wall thickness with a caliper and compare it to the expected value (usually 0.4 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle).
  • Adjust the flow rate in your slicer software until the wall thickness matches the expected value.
  • Find the recommended retraction settings for your filament type and brand.
  • Print a retraction test model that has multiple towers with gaps between them. Observe how much stringing occurs between the towers.
  • Adjust the retraction distance and speed in your slicer software until you minimize stringing without causing under-extrusion or blobs.

Sometimes the extruder gear is clicking or skipping. This can affect the quality of your prints and cause under-extrusion, blobs, or gaps in the layers. This can be difficult to diagnose because the root cause is often at the other side of the printer.

The extruder gear is the part that pushes the filament into the hot end, where it is melted and deposited onto the build plate. The extruder gear has teeth that grip the filament and rotate to feed it. Sometimes, the extruder gear can click or skip, meaning that it slips on the filament and fails to push it forward. This can happen for several reasons, such as:

  • The nozzle is too close to the build plate, causing too much back pressure and preventing the filament from flowing out.
  • The nozzle is clogged or partially blocked by dirt, dust, or debris, reducing the flow of filament.
  • The nozzle temperature is too low, making the filament too viscous and hard to extrude.
  • The filament diameter is inconsistent or out of spec, causing variations in the extrusion rate and pressure.
  • The filament is tangled, kinked, or twisted, creating friction and resistance in the feed path.
  • The extruder tension is too high or too low, making the extruder gear either slip on the filament or crush it.

To fix the extruder gear clicking problem, you need to identify the root cause and address it accordingly. Here are some possible solutions:

  • Adjust the nozzle height and level the build plate, making sure there is enough gap between them for the filament to flow out smoothly.
  • Clean the nozzle and check for any clogs or blockages. You can use a needle or a wire to poke through the nozzle hole or perform a cold pull to remove any stuck material.
  • Increase the nozzle temperature slightly and see if it improves the extrusion. You can also try a different filament material or brand that has a lower melting point or better flow characteristics.
  • Measure the filament diameter with a caliper and make sure it is within the tolerance range of your printer. You can also adjust the extrusion multiplier in your slicer software to compensate for any variations in the filament diameter.
  • Check the filament spool and make sure it is not tangled, kinked, or twisted. You can also use a filament guide or a spool holder to reduce any friction or resistance in the feed path.
  • Adjust the extruder tension and make sure it is not too tight or too loose. You can use a screwdriver to turn the tension knob or spring on your extruder assembly. You want to find a balance where the extruder gear grips the filament firmly but not too hard.

One of the common problems that 3D printer users face is under-extrusion, which means that not enough filament is coming out of the nozzle. This can result in poor print quality, gaps, and weak layers. One of the possible causes of under-extrusion is that the filament is not heated up to its melting point, which means that it cannot flow smoothly through the nozzle.

How can you tell if your filament is not hot enough? Here are some signs to look out for:

  • The filament is curling or bending as it comes out of the nozzle, instead of forming a straight line.
  • The filament is making a clicking or grinding noise as it is pushed through the extruder.
  • The filament is brittle and breaks easily when you bend it.
  • The print surface is rough and uneven, with blobs and strings.
  • The print layers are not adhering well to each other, and the print is weak and fragile.

If you notice any of these signs, you may need to increase the temperature of your nozzle. You can do this by adjusting the settings on your 3D printer’s control panel, or by using a slicer software to set the temperature for each layer. The optimal temperature for your filament depends on the type and brand of filament you are using, as well as the ambient temperature and humidity. You can check the recommended temperature range on the filament spool or on the manufacturer’s website.

However, be careful not to overheat your filament, as this can also cause problems such as clogging, oozing, and burning. You can tell if your filament is too hot if:

  • The filament is dripping or leaking from the nozzle when it is not printing.
  • The filament is bubbling or smoking as it comes out of the nozzle.
  • The filament is discolored or charred.
  • The print surface is glossy and smooth, with no details or texture.
  • The print layers are sagging or warping, and the print is deformed.

If you notice any of these signs, you may need to lower the temperature of your nozzle. You can do this by following the same steps as above, but in reverse.

You can also use a temperature tower test to calibrate your nozzle temperature for different filaments. A temperature tower is a 3D model that prints at different temperatures along its height, so you can compare the results and choose the best one. You can find many temperature tower models online, or create your own using a slicer software.

If you are looking for a way to give your 3D prints a metallic finish, you might want to try Rub N Buff. Rub N Buff is a wax-based product that comes in various colors and can be applied to any surface with a cloth or a brush.

The first step to use it is to prepare your 3D print. Make sure it is clean and dry, and sand any rough edges or supports. You can also prime your print with a spray paint or an acrylic paint if you want to create a base color or cover any imperfections.

The second step is to choose your Rub N Buff color. There are many options available, from silver and gold to copper and bronze. You can also mix different colors to create custom shades. A little goes a long way, so you only need a small amount of Rub N Buff for each print.

The third step is to apply the Rub N Buff. You can use a soft cloth, a cotton swab, a brush, or even your finger. Rub the product gently on the surface of your print, following the contours and details. You can apply more or less pressure depending on how much coverage you want. You can also layer different colors to create highlights and shadows.

The fourth step is to buff the surface. After applying the Rub N Buff, wait for a few minutes until it dries slightly. Then, use a clean cloth or a paper towel to buff the surface with circular motions. This will remove any excess product and make the surface shine.

The fifth step is to seal the surface. This is optional, but recommended if you want to protect your print from scratches and fingerprints. You can use a spray varnish or a clear coat to seal the surface and add more durability.

That’s it! You have successfully used Rub N Buff for post processing 3D prints. You can experiment with different colors and techniques to create amazing effects. Rub N Buff is a versatile and easy-to-use product that can transform your 3D prints into realistic metal objects.

I see a lot of people trying to go straight for resonance compensation and linear advance before they have properly calibrated their machine(s). Until your machine is printing properly, it doesn’t make sense to go and configure these advanced settings. One of the most important steps to achieve this is to calibrate your 3D printer properly. Calibration is the process of adjusting the settings and parameters of your printer to match the physical reality of your machine and your filament.

The first thing you should calibrate is the extruder steps per millimeter (esteps). This is the number of steps that your extruder motor needs to take to extrude one millimeter of filament. If your esteps are too low, you will under-extrude and get gaps and weak layers in your prints. If your esteps are too high, you will over-extrude and get blobs and stringing in your prints. To calibrate your esteps, you need to measure how much filament is actually extruded when you command a certain amount and compare it to the expected value. Then you can calculate the correct esteps value and update it in your firmware or slicer.

The next thing you should calibrate is the X, Y, and Z axis steps per millimeter. These are the numbers of steps that your motors need to take to move one millimeter along each axis. If these values are wrong, your prints will be distorted and not match the dimensions of your model. To calibrate these values, you need to print a calibration cube and measure its sides with a caliper. Then you can compare the measured values to the expected values and calculate the correct steps per millimeter for each axis.

The third thing you should calibrate is the resonance compensation and linear advance. These are features that help to reduce ringing and improve extrusion consistency at different speeds. Ringing is the wavy pattern that you see on the edges of your prints when the printer changes direction abruptly. This is caused by the inertia of the moving parts and the elasticity of the belts and rods. Resonance compensation is a firmware feature that applies a counteracting force to dampen these vibrations. Linear advance is another firmware feature that adjusts the extruder pressure according to the speed and acceleration of the nozzle. This helps to prevent over-extrusion at corners and under-extrusion at gaps. To calibrate these features, you need to print some test patterns and adjust the parameters until you get smooth edges and consistent extrusion.

By following this sequence of calibration steps, you can improve the quality and accuracy of your 3D prints significantly. Recalibrate your printer whenever you change something in your hardware or filament, such as replacing a nozzle or switching to a different material. Happy printing!

If you are looking for ways to improve the print quality and speed of your 3D printer, you may want to tune two important settings: pressure advance and input shaping. In this blog post, I will explain what these settings do, how to tune them, and what to consider when choosing the appropriate filament.

Pressure advance is a feature that compensates for the elasticity of the filament and the extruder. When the extruder moves at a constant speed, the filament behaves like a spring and creates a lag between the extruder and the nozzle. This lag causes over-extrusion at the start of a line and under-extrusion at the end of a line. To avoid this, pressure advance adjusts the extruder speed according to the acceleration and deceleration of the print head. This way, the pressure in the nozzle is kept constant and the extrusion is consistent.

Input shaping is a feature that compensates for the vibrations of the printer frame and the print head. When the print head changes direction abruptly, it creates ringing artifacts on the print surface. These artifacts reduce the accuracy and aesthetics of the print. To avoid this, input shaping filters out the frequencies that cause vibrations and smooths out the motion of the print head. This way, the ringing artifacts are minimized and the print quality is improved.

To tune pressure advance and input shaping, you will need to print some test patterns and measure some parameters. There are different methods and tools for doing this, but one of the easiest and most popular ones is to use Klipper firmware and its built-in calibration tools. Klipper is an open-source firmware that runs on a Raspberry Pi and communicates with your printer via USB. It has many advanced features and allows you to fine-tune your printer settings with ease.

To use Klipper, you will need to install it on your Raspberry Pi and flash your printer board with a bootloader. Then, you will need to create a configuration file for your printer and upload it to Klipper. You can find detailed instructions on how to do this on Klipper’s website: https://www.klipper3d.org/

Once you have Klipper up and running, you can use its web interface or terminal commands to perform pressure advance and input shaping calibration. You can find detailed instructions on how to do this on Klipper’s documentation: https://www.klipper3d.org/Pressure_Advance.html and https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html

One thing to consider when tuning pressure advance and input shaping is the type of filament you are using. Different filaments have different properties that affect their elasticity and viscosity. For example, flexible filaments are more elastic than rigid filaments, and high-temperature filaments are more viscous than low-temperature filaments. These factors affect how much pressure advance and input shaping you need to apply. Therefore, you should tune these settings for each filament type you use.

A 3D printer Bowden tube is a flexible tube that connects the extruder to the hot end. It allows the filament to be pushed and pulled by the extruder motor without bending or breaking. However, sometimes the Bowden tube can get clogged and cause printing problems. Here are some possible causes and solutions for a clogged Bowden tube:

  • The filament is too soft or flexible. Some filaments, such as TPU or TPE, are very flexible and can bend inside the Bowden tube, creating friction and resistance. This can prevent the filament from feeding smoothly and cause clogging. To avoid this, use a stiffer filament or a direct drive extruder that eliminates the need for a Bowden tube.
  • The filament diameter is too large or inconsistent. If the filament diameter is larger than the inner diameter of the Bowden tube, it can get stuck or jammed inside the tube. This can also happen if the filament diameter varies along its length, creating bulges or knots. To avoid this, use a high-quality filament that has a consistent diameter and matches the size of your Bowden tube.
  • The Bowden tube is too long or bent. A longer Bowden tube means more friction and resistance for the filament to overcome. This can reduce the extrusion force and cause under-extrusion or clogging. A bent Bowden tube can also create kinks or pinch points that obstruct the filament flow. To avoid this, use a shorter Bowden tube that is as straight as possible and avoid sharp bends or twists.
  • The Bowden tube is worn out or damaged. Over time, the Bowden tube can wear out due to friction, heat, or abrasion from the filament. This can create rough or uneven surfaces inside the tube that can snag or scrape the filament. A damaged Bowden tube can also have cracks or holes that can leak molten filament or allow dust and debris to enter. To avoid this, replace your Bowden tube regularly and inspect it for signs of wear or damage.

Bowden tubes are flexible tubes that connect the extruder and the hot end of a 3D printer. They are used to guide the filament through the printer and prevent it from bending or tangling. Bowden tubes can improve the print quality and speed of a 3D printer, but they can also cause some problems if they are not installed or maintained properly. It doesn’t happen frequently, but when there is a problem with the tube it can cause problems and be difficult to diagnose.

One of the most common issues with Bowden tubes is clogging. Clogging can occur when the filament gets stuck inside the tube due to friction, heat, moisture, or dust. Clogging can affect the extrusion rate and quality of the print, and can also damage the extruder motor or the hot end. To prevent clogging, it is important to use high-quality filament that is compatible with the tube diameter and material. It is also advisable to clean the tube regularly with a cleaning filament or a compressed air blower. Additionally, it is recommended to use a tube cutter or a sharp knife to cut the tube ends at a 90-degree angle, as this will ensure a smooth and tight fit with the fittings.

Another common issue with Bowden tubes is kinking. Kinking can happen when the tube bends too much or too sharply, creating a permanent deformation in the tube wall. Kinking can reduce the inner diameter of the tube and increase the friction and resistance for the filament. This can lead to under-extrusion, stringing, or layer shifting in the print. To prevent kinking, it is important to use a tube that has enough stiffness and flexibility for the printer setup. It is also advisable to avoid bending the tube more than necessary and to secure it with cable ties or clips to prevent it from moving too much during printing.

A third common issue with Bowden tubes is wear and tear. Wear and tear can occur over time due to the constant movement and friction of the filament inside the tube. Wear and tear can cause the tube to lose its shape, smoothness, and elasticity, which can affect its performance and durability. To prevent wear and tear, it is important to replace the tube periodically when it shows signs of degradation, such as cracks, splits, or discoloration. It is also advisable to use a tube that has a high abrasion resistance and a low coefficient of friction, such as PTFE or Capricorn tubes.

If you have ever used a 3D printer, you know that there are many settings that you can adjust to customize your prints. But many of these settings are not independent of each other. In fact, changing one setting can have a significant impact on other settings and the quality of your prints. I will explore how some of the most common 3D printer settings affect each other and what you need to consider when tweaking them.

Layer Height
Layer height is the thickness of each layer that the printer extrudes. It affects the resolution, print time, and strength of your prints. Generally, lower layer heights result in higher resolution, longer print time, and stronger prints. Higher layer heights result in lower resolution, shorter print time, and weaker prints. However, layer height also affects other settings such as extrusion width, temperature, and cooling.

Extrusion Width
Extrusion width is the width of the filament that the printer extrudes. It affects the accuracy, surface quality, and strength of your prints. Generally, higher extrusion widths result in more accurate, smoother, and stronger prints. Lower extrusion widths result in less accurate, rougher, and weaker prints. However, extrusion width also affects other settings such as layer height, temperature, and cooling.

Temperature
Temperature is the temperature of the hotend and the heated bed that melt and adhere the filament. It affects the adhesion, flow, and quality of your prints. Generally, higher temperatures result in better adhesion, smoother flow, and less warping. Lower temperatures result in worse adhesion, rougher flow, and more warping. However, temperature also affects other settings such as layer height, extrusion width, and cooling.

Cooling
Cooling is the amount of airflow that cools down the filament after it is extruded. It affects the shape, detail, and quality of your prints. Generally, more cooling results in better shape retention, finer details, and less stringing. Less cooling results in worse shape retention, coarser details, and more stringing. However, cooling also affects other settings such as layer height, extrusion width, and temperature.

3D printer settings are not isolated from each other. They work together as a set to determine the outcome of your prints.

One of the factors that affects both speed and quality of your print is the acceleration of your 3D printer. Acceleration is the rate of change of speed, and it determines how fast your printer can move from one point to another. Too high acceleration can cause vibrations, ringing, and loss of accuracy. Too low acceleration can result in longer print times and lower productivity.

So how do you calculate the optimal acceleration for your 3D printer? There is no definitive answer, as different models and settings may require different values. However, there are some general steps you can follow to find a good balance between speed and quality.

  1. Start with the default acceleration value that your printer manufacturer recommends. You can usually find this in the firmware settings or the slicer software.
  2. Print a test model that has sharp corners, curves, and details. You can use a calibration cube, a benchy, or any other model that suits your purpose.
  3. Examine the print quality and look for signs of over- or under-acceleration. Over-acceleration can cause ringing, ghosting, or overshooting on the edges of the model. Under-acceleration can cause blobbing, stringing, or under-extrusion on the corners and curves.
  4. Adjust the acceleration value by 10% increments and repeat steps 2 and 3 until you find the best compromise between speed and quality. You can also adjust other parameters such as jerk, speed, and flow rate to fine-tune your results.
  5. Enjoy your optimized 3D prints!