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If you are using silk PLA, you might have encountered a common problem: the extruder gear grinds a flat spot on your filament when you have retraction enabled. This can cause under-extrusion, clogging, and poor print quality. But if you disable retraction, you might get stringing and oozing. So how can you overcome this dilemma? Here are some tips that might help you.

  • Increase the extruder temperature. Silk PLA usually requires a higher temperature than regular PLA, around 210-230°C. This will reduce the resistance in the hot end and allow the filament to flow more easily.
  • I have also had success with reducing the extruder temperature to the very minimum temperature. When reducing the temperature the flow of PLA is slower, so a slower speed is also required to accommodate the lower temperature. This option allows me to disable retraction altogether.
  • Decrease the retraction distance and speed. Retraction pulls the filament back into the extruder to prevent oozing, but it also puts more stress on the filament. Try reducing the retraction distance to 2-3 mm and the speed to 20-30 mm/s. This will minimize the grinding and still prevent stringing.
  • Calibrate the extruder tension. The extruder tension is the force that the extruder gear applies on the filament to push it through the nozzle. If the tension is too high, it can cause grinding and flattening of the filament. If it is too low, it can cause slipping and under-extrusion. You can adjust the tension by turning a screw or a knob on your extruder. The ideal tension is when you can pull the filament out of the extruder with moderate force, but not too easily or too hard.
  • Use a high-quality filament. Silk PLA is a special type of PLA that has a shiny and smooth surface. However, not all silk PLA filaments are created equal. Some might have inconsistent diameter, impurities, or additives that can affect the print quality and performance. Make sure you buy from a reputable brand and store your filament in a dry and cool place.

I was printing a couple of things for my wife out of PLA+. Then my daughter wanted something printed in a silk PLA that contained some TPU. These are two very different filaments with very different properties. Just swapping filament spools and hitting “Print” would not have been successful. Here are the steps that I took to successfully swap between the two.

Step 1: Clean the nozzle

The first step is to clean the nozzle of your 3D printer to remove any residue of the previous filament. This is especially important when switching from a lower temperature filament (such as PLA) to a higher temperature filament (such as ABS), because the leftover PLA may burn and clog the nozzle when heated to ABS temperatures.

To clean the nozzle, you can use one of the following methods:

  • Cold pull: This method involves heating the nozzle to the melting temperature of the previous filament, then letting it cool down slightly, and then pulling out the filament with a quick motion. This should remove most of the residue from the nozzle. You may need to repeat this process a few times until the filament comes out clean.
  • Nylon cleaning filament: This is a special type of filament that is designed to clean the nozzle by absorbing any impurities. You can load the nylon cleaning filament into your 3D printer and extrude it at a high temperature (around 250°C) until it comes out clean. You can also use the cold pull method with the nylon cleaning filament for better results.
  • Needle or wire: This method involves inserting a thin needle or wire into the nozzle and gently scraping out any debris. You can do this while the nozzle is hot or cold, but be careful not to damage the nozzle or burn yourself.

Step 2: Adjust the temperature

The second step is to adjust the temperature of your 3D printer to match the new filament. Different filaments have different optimal printing temperatures, which depend on various factors such as the brand, color, and quality of the filament. You can usually find the recommended temperature range on the spool label or on the manufacturer’s website.

Step 3: Adjust the bed temperature

The third step is to adjust the bed temperature of your 3D printer to match the new filament. The bed temperature affects how well the first layer of your print adheres to the build platform, which is crucial for preventing warping and curling. Different filaments have different optimal bed temperatures, which also depend on the type of build surface you are using.

Step 4: Adjust the speed and cooling

The fourth step is to adjust the speed and cooling settings of your 3D printer to match the new filament. The speed and cooling affect how fast and how well your filament solidifies after being extruded from the nozzle. Different filaments have different optimal speed and cooling settings, which depend on their viscosity, shrinkage rate, and strength.

I’ve been printing with FDM printers for a while now, but only recently started printing with resin. In FDM printing orientation of the part is important, but with resin it’s a big deal. It got me thinking, maybe orientation is more important to FDM printing than I realized. Here are a few things to consider.

The first thing to consider is the overhang angle of your model. This is the angle between the horizontal plane and the surface of your model. If the overhang angle is too steep, the printer will have trouble depositing material on thin air, and you will need to add support structures to prevent sagging or collapsing. Support structures can be useful, but they also have some drawbacks: they use more material, increase printing time, and leave marks on the surface of your model that need to be removed.

The second thing to consider is the layer direction of your model. This is the direction in which the printer lays down each layer of material. The layer direction affects the strength and appearance of your model. Generally speaking, 3D printed parts are stronger along the layer direction than across it, because there is less bonding between layers than within them. This means that you should orient your model in such a way that the layer direction aligns with the main stress direction of your part. For example, if you are printing a hook, you should orient it vertically so that the layers are parallel to the force applied by the weight hanging from it.

The third thing to consider is the surface quality of your model. This is how smooth and detailed your model looks after printing. The surface quality depends on several factors, such as the nozzle size, layer height, print speed, and infill percentage. However, it also depends on the orientation of your model on the build plate. Generally speaking, 3D printed parts have better surface quality on the top and bottom faces than on the sides, because these faces are printed flat on the build plate or in mid-air, without any interference from support structures or adjacent layers.

Of course, these three factors are not independent from each other, and sometimes you will have to compromise between them. For example, if you want to print a sphere, you will have to choose between having a smooth top and bottom face with lots of support structures on the sides, or having a smooth side face with a rough top and bottom face. There is no one-size-fits-all solution for every model, and you will have to experiment with different orientations to find the best one for your specific case.

If you are into 3D printing, you might have heard that it is important to make your wall thicknesses in multiples of your nozzle size. But why is that? And what are the benefits of doing so?

The nozzle size is the diameter of the hole that extrudes the melted filament onto the build plate. The most common nozzle sizes are 0.4 mm and 0.8 mm, but there are also other options available. The nozzle size determines how much material is deposited per layer and how fine the details of your print can be.

The wall thickness is the width of the outer shell of your print. It is usually measured in millimeters or number of perimeters (the number of lines that make up the wall). The wall thickness affects the strength, durability and appearance of your print.

Now, why should you make your wall thicknesses in multiples of your nozzle size? The main reason is to avoid gaps or overlaps between the perimeters. If your wall thickness is not a multiple of your nozzle size, the slicer software will have to either leave a small gap between the perimeters or squeeze them together to fill the space. This can result in poor adhesion, weak walls, uneven surfaces or blobs and zits on your print.

For example, if you have a 0.4 mm nozzle and you set your wall thickness to 1.2 mm, you will get three perimeters that fit perfectly next to each other. But if you set your wall thickness to 1.3 mm, you will get three perimeters plus a 0.1 mm gap that the slicer will try to fill with extra material or leave empty. Either way, you will not get a smooth and consistent wall.

By making your wall thicknesses in multiples of your nozzle size, you can ensure that your perimeters are aligned and evenly spaced. This will result in stronger and smoother walls, better layer adhesion and less material waste. It will also make your slicing and printing process faster and easier, as the slicer will not have to calculate how to fill or avoid gaps.

Of course, this rule is not absolute and there may be situations where you want to deviate from it. For example, if you are printing a very thin wall that cannot accommodate a multiple of your nozzle size, or if you are using a variable layer height feature that changes the nozzle size dynamically. In these cases, you may have to experiment with different settings and see what works best for your model.

But as a general guideline, making your wall thicknesses in multiples of your nozzle size is a good practice that can improve your 3D printing results. I hope this blog post was helpful and informative for you. Happy printing!

Your first layer in 3d printing is everything. It’s the layer that ties your print to the bed…or not. If you don’t get your first layer down right then there’s a good chance your print will not be successful. So what should you be looking for in a first layer?

To achieve a perfect first layer, you need to consider three main aspects: bed surface preparation, bed leveling, and calibration.

Bed surface preparation involves cleaning and preparing the bed for maximum adhesion with your chosen filament.

Bed leveling involves adjusting the distance between the nozzle and the bed so that it is consistent across the entire print area. If the nozzle is too close to the bed, it will squish the filament too much and create a rough and thin first layer. If the nozzle is too far from the bed, it will extrude too much filament and create a loose and uneven first layer. You can level your bed manually by using a piece of paper or a feeler gauge as a spacer between the nozzle and the bed, and turning the knobs or screws on each corner of the bed until you feel a slight resistance. Alternatively, you can use an automatic bed leveling sensor or probe that measures the distance between the nozzle and the bed at multiple points and compensates for any irregularities.

Calibration involves fine-tuning your settings such as first layer height, first layer speed, first layer temperature, and first layer line width to optimize your first layer quality. These settings can vary depending on your printer model, filament type, and personal preference, but here are some general guidelines:

  • First layer height: A lower first layer height (such as 50% or 75%) can improve adhesion and smoothness, but it may also increase the risk of clogging or over-extrusion. A higher first layer height (such as 100% or 125%) can reduce print time and material usage, but it may also decrease adhesion and accuracy.
  • First layer speed: A lower first layer speed (such as 25% or 50%) can improve adhesion and accuracy, but it may also increase print time and stringing. A higher first layer speed (such as 75% or 100%) can reduce print time and stringing, but it may also decrease adhesion and quality.
  • First layer temperature: A higher first layer temperature (such as 5°C or 10°C above your normal print temperature) can improve adhesion and flow, but it may also increase warping and oozing. A lower first layer temperature (such as 5°C or 10°C below your normal print temperature) can reduce warping and oozing, but it may also decrease adhesion and flow.
  • First layer line width: A higher first layer line width (such as 120% or 150%) can improve adhesion and coverage, but it may also increase the risk of over-extrusion or elephant foot. A lower first layer line width (such as 80% or 100%) can reduce the risk of over-extrusion or elephant foot, but it may also decrease adhesion and coverage.

Ever heard the term “magic numbers”. What are they and why are they important for getting the best quality prints? I Would like to explain what magic numbers are, how to calculate them for your 3D printer, and how to use them in your slicer settings.

Magic numbers are layer heights that are multiples of the minimum height that your Z-axis can move. For example, if your Z-axis can move in increments of 0.04 mm, then your magic numbers are 0.04 mm, 0.08 mm, 0.12 mm, and so on. By choosing one of these magic numbers as your layer height, you can ensure that your printer moves in full steps or half steps, which are more accurate and consistent than micro steps.

Micro steps are fractions of a full step that are achieved by activating two electromagnets on the stepper motor. However, micro steps are not precise and can vary depending on the current and torque of the motor. This can lead to inaccuracies and inconsistencies in your prints, especially if your layer height does not match the steps of your motor.

To avoid micro stepping, you need to know the magic numbers for your 3D printer. You can find them online for popular models like the Ender 3, or you can calculate them yourself using a simple formula or a calculator. The formula is:

Magic number = (motor step angle / 360) * leadscrew pitch * gear ratio

The motor step angle is usually 1.8 degrees for most 3D printers, but you can check your specifications to be sure. The leadscrew pitch is the distance that the leadscrew moves per rotation, which is usually 8 mm for metric leadscrews or 2 mm for imperial leadscrews. The gear ratio is the ratio between the number of teeth on the pulley and the number of teeth on the motor shaft, which is usually 1:1.

For example, if you have a printer with a 1.8 degree motor step angle, an 8 mm leadscrew pitch, and a 1:1 gear ratio, then your magic number is:

Magic number = (1.8 / 360) * 8 * 1 = 0.04 mm

Once you know your magic number, you can choose a layer height that is a multiple of it in your slicer settings. For example, if your magic number is 0.04 mm, you can choose a layer height of 0.08 mm, 0.12 mm, 0.16 mm, etc. This will ensure that your printer moves in full steps or half steps and produces smoother and more accurate prints.

However, there are some limitations and trade-offs to consider when using magic numbers. First of all, not all layer heights are suitable for all models. Some models may require finer details or sharper angles that can only be achieved with lower layer heights. In this case, you may have to sacrifice some quality for accuracy or vice versa.

Secondly, using magic numbers does not guarantee perfect prints every time. There are many other factors that affect print quality, such as temperature, speed, flow rate, cooling, retraction, etc. You still need to calibrate and optimize these settings for your printer and filament.

Onshape is a cloud-based CAD platform that offers many advantages over traditional desktop-based software. I would like to compare and contrast a couple of CAD packages.

SolidWorks is one of the most popular and widely used CAD software in the industry. It has a rich set of features and tools for designing, simulating, and manufacturing complex products. However, SolidWorks also has some drawbacks, such as:

  • It requires a powerful computer and a large storage space to run smoothly.
  • It is expensive and requires a yearly subscription or a perpetual license.
  • It is not compatible with all operating systems and devices.
  • It does not support real-time collaboration and version control.

Onshape, on the other hand, is accessible from any device with a web browser and an internet connection. It also has a lower cost and a flexible pricing model. Onshape allows multiple users to work on the same project simultaneously and track changes with built-in version control. Some of the benefits of Onshape are:

  • It is fast and reliable, as it runs on the cloud and does not depend on the user’s hardware.
  • It is easy to use and learn, as it has a user-friendly interface and intuitive tools
  • It is integrated with many other cloud-based applications and services.

Fusion 360 is another cloud-based CAD platform that competes with Onshape. It also offers a comprehensive set of features and tools for designing, simulating, and manufacturing products. Fusion 360 has some advantages over Onshape, such as:

  • It has more advanced simulation and analysis capabilities, such as finite element analysis, thermal analysis, and motion studies.
  • It has more options for exporting and importing files, such as STL, STEP, IGES, and DWG.
  • It has more support for offline work, as it allows users to download and edit files locally.

However, Fusion 360 also has some disadvantages compared to Onshape, such as:

  • It requires installation and updates on the user’s device, which can take time and space.
  • It has a steeper learning curve and a more complex interface than Onshape.
  • It has less collaboration features than Onshape, such as commenting, sharing, and branching.

SketchUp is a different type of CAD software than Onshape. It is mainly used for creating 3D models of buildings and interiors. Some of the pros of SketchUp are:

  • It is ideal for conceptual design and visualization, as it allows users to quickly sketch out their ideas in 3D.
  • It has a wide range of extensions and plugins that enhance its functionality and compatibility.
  • It has a free version that can be used for personal projects.

However, SketchUp also has some limitations compared to Onshape, such as:

  • It is not suitable for detailed design and engineering, as it lacks precision and accuracy.
  • It is not optimized for complex geometries and assemblies, as it can cause performance issues and errors.
  • It is not integrated with any cloud-based services or applications.

Ultimately, the choice of CAD software depends on the user’s preferences, requirements, and budget.

Something that doesn’t come up often in conversation, but is important nevertheless, is electricity. 3d printer run on electricity and it does you no good to run one on an overloaded circuit.

First of all, you need to know how much power your 3D printer consumes. This depends on the model, the size, the features, and the settings of your printer. You can usually find this information on the specifications sheet or the user manual of your printer. Alternatively, you can use a power meter to measure the actual power consumption of your printer.

The power consumption of a 3D printer is usually expressed in watts (W) or kilowatts (kW). For example, a typical desktop 3D printer might consume around 200 W, while a larger industrial 3D printer might consume up to 5 kW. To convert watts to kilowatts, you simply divide by 1000. For example, 200 W / 1000 = 0.2 kW.

Next, you need to know how much current your 3D printer draws from the electrical outlet. This depends on the voltage and the power consumption of your printer. You can use this formula to calculate the current:

Current (in amps) = Power (in watts) / Voltage (in volts)

For example, if your 3D printer consumes 200 W and the voltage in your country is 120 V, then the current is:

Current = 200 W / 120 V = 1.67 amps

You also need to know the maximum current rating of your circuit breaker. This is the maximum amount of current that your circuit breaker can handle before it trips and cuts off the power. You can usually find this information on the label or the panel of your circuit breaker. The common ratings are 15 amps, 20 amps, or 30 amps.

To avoid tripping your circuit breaker, you need to make sure that the total current draw of all the devices connected to the same circuit does not exceed the maximum current rating of your circuit breaker. For example, if your circuit breaker is rated at 15 amps and you have a 3D printer that draws 1.67 amps, a laptop that draws 0.5 amps, and a lamp that draws 0.1 amps, then the total current draw is:

Total current = 1.67 amps + 0.5 amps + 0.1 amps = 2.27 amps

This is well below the maximum current rating of your circuit breaker, so you should not have any problems.

However, if you have a larger 3D printer that consumes 5 kW and draws 41.67 amps at 120 V, then you will definitely need a dedicated circuit with a higher-rated circuit breaker (such as a 50-amp breaker) to run it safely.

Some other tips to avoid electrical problems are:

  • Use a surge protector or an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) to protect your 3D printer from power surges or outages.
  • Use high-quality extension cords or power strips that can handle the current draw of your 3D printer.
  • Avoid using multiple adapters or splitters that can overload your outlet or create fire hazards.

I know that’s a lot of math, the TLDR version of this is that most hobby printers can safely be run on a 20 amp circuit. It’s still probably in your best interest to run the calculation, though.

As I work with 3d printers more and more, one of my boys has been my copilot. Together, we troubleshoot. We celebrate the victories and mourn over the spaghetti messes that we create. If a design is simple enough, he does the design himself. Otherwise, I work with him to get what we’re looking for. It’s been a really fun experience to see him take an idea that solves a problem, go through the design process, create a part, and then iterate through the phases of design on his own.

It’s been a great learning experience for both of us. Now we’re getting into resin printing for the first time and we’re learning an awful lot together and having a great time. I’m really enjoying it.

Stock firmware isn’t always the most up to date or optimized. However, it is “safe” in the sense that it has (typically) been thoroughly tested and there won’t be any big surprises. A question that I see come up from time to time is whether people should upgrade their firmware or not. Firmware is the software that controls the hardware of your printer, and it can affect its performance, reliability and functionality.

Pros of upgrading your 3D printer firmware:

  • You can access new features and improvements that the manufacturer or the community has developed, such as better calibration, faster printing, more accurate temperature control, etc.
  • You can fix bugs and errors that may cause your printer to malfunction, crash or produce poor quality prints.
  • You can enhance the security and safety of your printer, by preventing unauthorized access, protecting your data and avoiding potential fire hazards.

Cons of upgrading your 3D printer firmware:

  • You may lose some functionality or compatibility that you were used to, such as support for certain file formats, slicers or accessories.
  • You may encounter new bugs or errors that were not present in the previous version, or that are specific to your printer model or configuration.
  • You may void the warranty of your printer, if the manufacturer does not approve of the firmware update or if you use a third-party firmware.

How to upgrade your 3D printer firmware:

Before you decide to upgrade your 3D printer firmware, you should do some research and preparation. Here are some steps to follow:

  • Check the official website of your printer manufacturer or the firmware developer, and see if there is a new version available for your printer model. Read the release notes and the user reviews, and see what changes and benefits it offers.
  • Backup your current firmware and settings, in case you need to revert back to them later. You can usually do this by connecting your printer to a computer via USB and using a software tool such as Cura or Pronterface.
  • Download the new firmware file and follow the instructions on how to install it on your printer. This may vary depending on the type of printer and firmware you have, but it usually involves copying the file to an SD card and inserting it into your printer, or uploading it via USB or Wi-Fi.
  • Test your printer after the firmware update, and see if everything works as expected. If not, you may need to adjust some settings, calibrate your printer again, or contact the support team for help.