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Z offset is a term that refers to the distance between the nozzle of your 3D printer and the print bed. It is an important parameter that affects the quality and adhesion of your prints. If the Z offset is too high, the nozzle will be too far from the bed and the first layer will not stick well. If the Z offset is too low, the nozzle will be too close to the bed and may scratch it or cause extrusion problems.

The first step is to measure your current Z offset. You can do this by printing a test pattern, such as a single-layer square or circle, and observing how it looks on the bed. Ideally, you want the first layer to be slightly squished and have a smooth surface. If the first layer is too thin or has gaps, your Z offset is too high. If the first layer is too thick or has blobs, your Z offset is too low.

To adjust your Z offset, you need to access your printer’s firmware settings. Depending on your printer model and software, you may have different ways to do this. Some printers have a menu option that allows you to change the Z offset directly. Others require you to use a terminal program or a G-code command to modify the Z offset value. You can find more information about your specific printer in its manual or online forums.

Once you have access to your Z offset setting, you can increase or decrease it by small increments, such as 0.01 mm or 0.05 mm. The direction of the adjustment depends on whether you need to raise or lower your nozzle. For example, if your Z offset is too high, you need to lower your nozzle by decreasing the Z offset value. If your Z offset is too low, you need to raise your nozzle by increasing the Z offset value.

After each adjustment, you should print another test pattern and check the first layer quality. Repeat this process until you find the optimal Z offset for your printer and filament. You may need to fine-tune your Z offset for different materials or environmental conditions, as they can affect the extrusion and adhesion of your prints.

Sometimes we don’t have the luxury of buying a new 3d printer and have to use what we have. My first choice for printing miniature figurines is my SLA printer. But, before I got it I did use my FDM printer for that same purpose. It took a bit of tuning to get everything just right. In the end, you still don’t get details as fine as on a resin printer, but for a couple of 8 and 10 year old boys who just want to goof off with them, the detail is just fine. Here is how I got my FDM printer tuned to make decent miniature prints.

Use a 0.25 mm nozzle for printing miniatures. This will allow you to print finer features and reduce the visible layer lines. However, a smaller nozzle also means a higher risk of clogging and longer print times. Therefore, you need to buy good quality filament that won’t clog and has consistent diameter and color.

Do your PID tuning. This is a process that calibrates the temperature control of your hotend and bed, ensuring that they maintain a stable and accurate temperature throughout the print. PID tuning can improve the quality and reliability of your prints, as well as prevent thermal runaway and overheating issues.

Make sure that your esteps are calibrated. Esteps are the number of steps your extruder motor takes to push a certain amount of filament through the nozzle. A little tiny nozzle is much more likely to get clogged, so you want to make sure you aren’t feeding it too much filament. To calibrate your esteps, you need to measure how much filament is extruded when you command a certain length, and adjust the estep value accordingly.

If you use Klipper firmware like I do, you need to make sure that you calibrate your rotation distance. This is the distance that the print head moves when the extruder motor rotates one full turn. I think other firmware calls it your steps per mm. Whatever it’s called, make sure that if you print something that’s supposed to be 1 inch, that it’s an inch.

Finally, you need to level your bed at your printing temperature. Then do a mesh bed level. This will compensate for any unevenness or warping of your bed surface, ensuring that your nozzle is at the right distance from the bed at every point. A good bed level is essential for good adhesion and avoiding elephant foot or warping issues.

These are some of the things that I do to print miniatures with my FDM printer. Of course, there are other factors that affect the quality of your prints, such as slicer settings, orientation, supports, infill, post-processing, etc. But I hope this blog post gave you some useful information and inspiration for printing miniatures with FDM.

Continuing on with the theme of “stuff I should have known better but did anyways.”

I was diagnosing a problem a few months ago and decided that I needed to remove my extruder and disassemble it. I sat there, next to my printer, trying to find some space on my tabletop among all of my other printer accessories.

I checked everything. Motor gear? Good to go. Extruder gears? They are metal, but let’s check them anyways. They are good to go. Motor? It has the right voltage and it’s turning. No clog on the hotend. It’s good to go.

I decided to come back to it later.

When I came back to it, I still couldn’t figure it out so I contacted the manufacturer. They told me a few things to look for. I checked them but my extruder still wasn’t gripping the filament properly. I decided to put one of my old extruders back on (good thing I save them for just such a scenario).

When I pulled the old extruder out of my drawer and I happened to look down on the floor. There I saw it. A bearing. I knew immediately that this was the cause of everything. I must have dropped it when I disassembled my extruder and I didn’t notice. It turned out to be the bearing that holds the motor gear against the motor. When I didn’t notice that it was missing the filament was able to push the gears away, causing it not to grip properly. As soon as I put it back in everything started working again.

Save yourself some trouble. Disassemble in a clean area (not on a countertop, I have another story about a sink drain). Place all of your parts on a clean, light-colored cloth so that you don’t lose parts and they don’t go rolling off.

One of the cool things about being alive in the internet era is that it is very easy to learn from the mistakes of others without having to go through the “School of Hard Knocks” for everything. 3d printing is no exception. In this case, you get to learn from me what I should have learned from others.

A couple of weeks ago one of my FDM printers stopped working. I looked at it quickly and saw that the nozzle was clogged. I attempted to clear the clog, and when it didn’t start working properly I decided to put it into the “I’ll get to it later” category.

This weekend was “later” and I needed the printer back online, so I decided it was time.

I realized that there were two issues. The extruder wasn’t feeding and the nozzle was clogged. Knowing that these issues are sometimes related, I separated the bowden tube from the hotend to help me diagnose which end was causing the problem. It seemed to me that there was an issue on both ends. The extruder wasn’t feeding correctly and the nozzle was clogged. Great. Seemed like heat creep to me so I started investigating into sources for heat. My fans are old, maybe one of them is clogged or not working right. Fans cleaned, no clogs found. Next, I sorted out the nozzle. I ended up replacing it. It worked!

I tried a test print. My joy was short-lived when it quickly clogged up again.

I decided to turn towards the extruder. I took it apart. Everything seemed normal. The motor gear was a little worn, but still in pretty good shape. Back to the hotend.

I pulled the heat block off and disassembled the hotend components. I quickly discovered that the new nozzle that I had put on the hotend had a shorter thread than my last one. The impact of this being that there was a gap between the nozzle and the heat break inside of the heat block. This meant that when the filament heated up it would be able to creep out, and that’s exactly what it did. Sigh. I realized what I had done. I had replaced the correct component the first time (the nozzle), but I had replaced it and caused another problem, and now my entire hotend has melted black filament on it.

Fortunately, I keep a few spare components on hand. I had a spare heat block, heat break, and nozzle. I put them on, making sure to properly hot-tighten the nozzle this time, and I was back in business.

Double check everything. Take your time. Make sure that you put the right components on. Make sure that you are solving the right problem.

Has your nozzle ever dragged across the top surface of your 3d printed part and given you those little valleys? This is often due to a simple but common problem: a poorly leveled bed.

By leveling your bed correctly, you will not only save time and money on wasted filament and failed prints, but also improve the quality and accuracy of your prints. You will be able to print smoother surfaces, sharper details, and more complex shapes without any hassle.

To level your bed properly, you will need a sheet of paper, a ruler, and a screwdriver. Follow these simple steps to get started:

  • Turn on your 3D printer and heat up the bed and the nozzle to the temperature you normally use for printing.
  • Place the sheet of paper on one corner of the bed and move the nozzle over it.
  • Adjust the height of the bed using the screwdriver until you feel a slight resistance when you slide the paper under the nozzle. If your bed is leveled with thumbscrews, obviously use those instead.
  • Repeat this process for the other three corners of the bed, making sure that the paper has the same resistance at each point.
  • Check the levelness of the bed by moving the nozzle across the entire surface and sliding the paper under it. If you feel any difference in resistance, adjust the corresponding corner until it is even.
  • Measure the distance between the nozzle and the bed using the ruler. It should be around 0.1 mm for most printers and filaments. If it is too high or too low, adjust the height of the entire bed using the screws on the sides or front of the printer.
  • Once you have leveled your bed properly, you are ready to print. Enjoy your flawless prints!

Stringing is a common problem in 3D printing, especially with flexible materials like PETG. It occurs when thin strands of filament ooze from the nozzle as it moves between two points, creating unwanted hairs on your print. Stringing can ruin the appearance and quality of your print, so it’s important to know how to prevent it.

One of the main causes of stringing is wet filament. Filament can absorb moisture from the air over time, which can affect its printing properties. When wet filament is heated in the nozzle, it can create steam that pushes out excess filament, resulting in stringing. Wet filament can also cause popping noises, bubbles, and poor layer adhesion.

Another common cause of stringing is retraction settings. Retraction is a feature that pulls back the filament into the nozzle when it’s not extruding, to reduce the pressure and prevent oozing. Retraction settings include retraction distance, which is how much filament is retracted, and retraction speed, which is how fast the filament is retracted.

So how can you tell if your stringing is caused by wet filament or retraction settings? Here are some tips:

  • Check your filament spool for signs of moisture, such as condensation. If you see any, your filament is likely wet and needs to be dried before printing. You can use a filament dryer, an oven, or a dehumidifier to dry your filament.
  • Print a temperature tower test to find the optimal nozzle temperature for your filament. Too high or too low temperature can cause stringing, so you want to find the right balance between melting and flowing. A temperature tower test prints a series of blocks at different temperatures, and you can choose the one with the best quality.
  • Print a retraction test to find the optimal retraction settings for your printer and filament. Retraction settings can vary depending on your extruder type (direct-drive or Bowden), nozzle size, and filament type. A retraction test prints a series of pillars with gaps between them, and you can adjust the retraction distance and speed until you eliminate stringing.
  • Experiment with different travel speeds and minimum travel distances. Travel speed is how fast the nozzle moves between gaps when it’s not extruding, and minimum travel distance is how far the nozzle has to move before retraction is enabled. Increasing both of these settings can reduce stringing by minimizing oozing and enabling more retraction.

Have you ever experienced a thermal runaway error on your 3D printer? If you have, you know how frustrating and scary it can be. Thermal runaway is a condition where the temperature of the hotend or the heated bed rises uncontrollably, potentially causing damage to the printer or even starting a fire. I will explain what causes thermal runaway, how to prevent it, and what to do if it happens.

The main cause of thermal runaway is a malfunction in the temperature sensor or the heater. The temperature sensor is a device that measures the temperature of the hotend or the heated bed and sends a signal to the controller board. The controller board then adjusts the power to the heater to maintain the desired temperature. If the temperature sensor fails or becomes loose, it may send a wrong signal to the controller board, causing it to overheat or underheat the heater. Similarly, if the heater fails or becomes loose, it may draw too much or too little power, causing it to overheat or underheat.

To prevent thermal runaway, you should always check your printer for any signs of damage or wear before each print. Make sure that the temperature sensor and the heater are securely attached and that the wires are not frayed or broken. You should also enable thermal runaway protection in your firmware if your printer supports it. Thermal runaway protection is a feature that monitors the temperature of the hotend and the heated bed and shuts off the power if it detects an abnormal change. It’s not always enabled by default, so make sure it is turned on before you start printing.

If you encounter a thermal runaway error during a print, you should immediately turn off your printer and unplug it from the power source. Do not touch any part of the printer until it cools down completely. Then, inspect your printer for any damage or loose connections and fix them if possible. You may need to replace the temperature sensor or the heater if they are faulty. You should also update your firmware to the latest version and enable thermal runaway protection if you haven’t done so already.

Have you ever started a 3d print, only to come back a few hours later to find that your nozzle in midair with nothing being extruded from it? Then you fix the clog, only to have the same thing happen? If so, you might have encountered heat creep. This is when heat from the hot end travels up the filament and causes it to melt before it reaches the nozzle. This can result in clogs, underextrusion, and poor print quality.

How can you recognize heat creep? Some symptoms include:

  • Filament grinding or slipping in the extruder
  • Filament oozing out of the nozzle when not printing
  • Filament snapping or breaking during printing
  • Inconsistent extrusion or gaps in layers
  • Nozzle jamming or clicking noises

Heat creep can be caused by various factors, such as:

  • Printing at too high temperature
  • Poor cooling of the hot end or heat sink
  • Improper insulation of the hot end
  • Faulty or dirty fans
  • Low-quality or incompatible filament

Fortunately, heat creep can be prevented or fixed with some simple solutions, such as:

  • Lowering the printing temperature to the minimum recommended for your filament
  • Increasing the cooling of the hot end or heat sink with better fans or ducts
  • Adding thermal paste or silicone socks to the hot end to improve insulation
  • Cleaning or replacing the fans regularly to ensure optimal airflow
  • Using high-quality and compatible filament that matches your printer settings

Are you frustrated by Z banding in your 3D prints? Do you want to know what causes this annoying defect and how to fix it? If so, you’ve come to the right place!

Z banding, also known as Z wobble, is a common problem in FDM 3D printing that results in horizontal ridges or bulges on the sides of your printed objects. It can ruin the appearance and accuracy of your prints, and make them weaker and more prone to cracking. In a nutshell, your printer is moving when you don’t expect it to or want it to and you need to figure out why.

Z banding is caused by several factors that affect the movement of the Z axis, which controls the vertical position of the print head. Some of these factors are:

  • Misaligned or bent Z axis rods or lead screws
  • Loose or worn out couplers, bearings or rails
  • Inconsistent bed temperature or PID settings
  • Microstepping errors in the stepper motor drivers
  • Improper layer height settings

Fortunately, there are some simple ways to prevent or reduce Z banding in your 3D prints. Here are some tips that you can try:

  • Check and adjust the alignment of your Z axis rods or lead screws. Make sure they are parallel to each other and perpendicular to the print bed. Use a spirit level or a digital caliper to measure the distance between them at different points. If they are bent, replace them with new ones.
  • Tighten or replace any loose or worn out parts that connect the Z axis rods or lead screws to the stepper motors, such as couplers, bearings or rails. Make sure they are not too tight or too loose, as this can cause binding or backlash.
  • Enable a consistent bed temperature throughout your print by using PID tuning or setting a fixed temperature in your slicer. Avoid using auto bed leveling sensors that can introduce temperature fluctuations.
  • Use half or full step layer heights that match your Z axis pitch and avoid microstepping errors. For example, if your Z axis pitch is 8 mm and you have a 200 steps per revolution stepper motor, use layer heights that are multiples of 0.04 mm (8 / 200).
  • Stabilize your Z axis rods or lead screws by adding supports or braces at the top and bottom ends. This can prevent them from wobbling or vibrating during printing.

It never fails. It’s always the simple things that keep us humble.

I like to tinker, to optimize, and to get the best parts that I can out of my 3d printers. In doing so, I’m always upgrading, experimenting, and messing with settings.

At the end of the day, though, it’s important for me to remember that I’m just heating up plastic and squeezing it through a nozzle and that there are some fundamental things that need to be in place for that to happen. Sometimes, I lose track of that fundamental concept.

I upgraded my extruder a little while back. A better extruder means better parts, right? Well, that was true, for a little while. Over the weekend my 3d printer stopped extruding filament. I ended up thinking it was a clogged nozzle and completely took apart the hotend to find out what the problem was. It turned out to be that there was no problem…at that end.

I turned back to the extruder and took a closer look. After taking it apart and putting it back together about 600 times, it seemed like, I finally realized that the gears weren’t meshing properly. When I upgraded my extruder, I had aligned the gears close enough that they functioned properly at first. But after a while, the misalignment had caused my plastic gear to become worn and eventually stop extruding. New plastic gear ordered and old extruder put on the printer while I wait for the gear.

Back to basics. If you want to extrude something, your gears have to mesh well.