Category: Configuration

Some symptoms of a failed extruder are:

  • Poor layer adhesion: The layers of your print are not sticking together well, resulting in gaps, cracks, or weak spots.
  • Inconsistent extrusion: The width of your extruded filament varies along the print, causing blobs, strings, or gaps.
  • Missing layers: Some layers of your print are completely missing or very thin, creating holes or gaps in your model.
  • Rough surface: The surface of your print is rough or uneven, with bumps, ridges, or zits.
  • No extrusion: The extruder stops pushing filament through the nozzle, resulting in an incomplete or empty print.

Some symptoms of a clogged PTFE tube are:

  • Poor layer adhesion: The layers of your print are not sticking together well, resulting in gaps, cracks, or weak spots.
  • Inconsistent extrusion: The width of your extruded filament varies along the print, causing blobs, strings, or gaps.
  • Missing layers: Some layers of your print are completely missing or very thin, creating holes or gaps in your model.
  • Rough surface: The surface of your print is rough or uneven, with bumps, ridges, or zits.
  • No extrusion: The extruder stops pushing filament through the nozzle, resulting in an incomplete or empty print.

Some symptoms of a failure at the hotend are:

  • Poor layer adhesion: The layers of your print are not sticking together well, resulting in gaps, cracks, or weak spots.
  • Inconsistent extrusion: The width of your extruded filament varies along the print, causing blobs, strings, or gaps.
  • Missing layers: Some layers of your print are completely missing or very thin, creating holes or gaps in your model.
  • Rough surface: The surface of your print is rough or uneven, with bumps, ridges, or zits.
  • No extrusion: The extruder stops pushing filament through the nozzle, resulting in an incomplete or empty print.

So, how do you tell where the problem is? When diagnosing, I take everything apart. Decouple the Bowden tube from the extruder and see if it works properly. Take the nozzle and heat break out of the printhead and see if you can push some filament through manually. Put a length of filament through the PTFE tube manually. The best and quickest way to find and resolve the issue is to slow down and be thorough with your investigation. Otherwise, I know from experience that you can waste a lot of time and money on replacing the wrong parts.

Have you ever gone through your entire calibration of your machine, only to shut it down for the day and have everything messed up when you start it up the next day? Have you ever leveled your bed, only to run a test part and find that everything comes out as a goopy mess? I spent a very long and frustrating weekend doing exactly this.

I would calibrate it and think “ok, now I’ve got it.” Nope, now I’ve got heat creep. Swap out the nozzle. Ok, now I’ve got it. Nope, now my extruder is underextruding. WHAT IS GOING ON?

When you have this, check your connections. In my case, the connector for my part cooling fan was loose and the fan wouldn’t always run. The results of not having a part fan can cause heat creep and poor adhesion. My filament wasn’t being cooled and so it would just get pushed around by the next layer that was supposed to adhere to it.

Heat creep is a phenomenon that affects 3D printers, especially those that use a direct drive extruder. It occurs when the heat from the hot end travels up the filament and melts it before it reaches the nozzle, causing clogs, jams, and poor print quality. In this blog post, we will explore the causes of heat creep and how to prevent it.

One of the main causes of heat creep is poor cooling of the hot end. The hot end consists of a heater block, a heat break, and a heat sink. The heater block heats up the filament to melt it, the heat break transfers the heat to the heat sink, and the heat sink dissipates the heat with a fan. If the fan is not working properly, or if the heat sink is dirty or poorly designed, the heat will not be removed efficiently and will travel up the filament.

Another cause of heat creep is using a filament that has a low melting point or a high thermal conductivity. Some filaments, such as PLA, ABS, or PETG, have lower melting points than others, such as nylon or polycarbonate. This means that they can soften or melt at lower temperatures, which makes them more prone to heat creep. Similarly, some filaments have higher thermal conductivity than others, which means that they can transfer heat more easily along their length. This can also cause them to soften or melt before reaching the nozzle.

A third cause of heat creep is printing at high temperatures or speeds. Printing at high temperatures can increase the amount of heat generated by the heater block and make it harder for the heat sink to cool it down. Printing at high speeds can also increase the friction between the filament and the extruder gears, which can generate more heat and cause the filament to deform. Both of these factors can contribute to heat creep and affect the print quality.

To prevent heat creep, there are several steps that you can take. First, you should check your cooling fan and make sure that it is working properly and blowing air towards the heat sink. You should also clean your heat sink regularly and remove any dust or debris that might block the airflow. Second, you should choose a filament that has a high melting point and a low thermal conductivity, or adjust your printing temperature and speed accordingly. You should also use a good quality filament that does not have any impurities or inconsistencies that might affect its properties. Third, you should calibrate your extruder and make sure that it is not over-extruding or under-extruding filament. You should also use a retraction setting that minimizes stringing and oozing without causing too much pressure in the nozzle.

By following these tips, you can avoid heat creep and improve your 3D printing experience. Heat creep is a common problem that can ruin your prints and damage your printer, but it can be prevented with proper maintenance and settings. If you have any questions or comments about heat creep, feel free to leave them below.

If you are a 3D printing enthusiast, you may have encountered a frustrating problem: your nozzle seems to be clogged and no filament comes out. You try to clean it, replace it, or even upgrade it, but nothing works. What is going on?

The answer may surprise you: your nozzle may not be clogged at all, but rather your temperature may be too low. How can this happen? Let me explain.

When you print with a 3D printer, you need to heat up the filament to a certain temperature so that it can melt and flow through the nozzle. This temperature varies depending on the type of filament you use, but it is usually around 200°C for PLA and 230°C for ABS.

However, if your temperature is too low, the filament may not melt enough to flow smoothly. Instead, it may form a thick and sticky paste that accumulates inside the nozzle and prevents more filament from coming out. This can look like a clog, but it is actually a temperature issue.

How can you tell the difference? There are some signs that can help you diagnose the problem:

  • If your nozzle is clogged, you may hear a clicking sound from the extruder as it tries to push the filament through.
  • If your temperature is too low, you may see the filament curling up or forming blobs around the nozzle as it comes out.
  • If your nozzle is clogged, you may need to use a needle or a wire to clear it out.
  • If your temperature is too low, you may need to increase it by 5-10°C and try again.

To prevent this problem from happening in the future, you should always check the recommended temperature for your filament and make sure your printer is calibrated correctly. You should also avoid printing in cold or drafty environments that can affect the temperature of your nozzle.

I hope this blog post was helpful and informative. Happy printing!

Volumetric flow is a concept that relates to how much material a 3D printer can extrude in a given time. It is usually measured in cubic millimeters per second (mm³/s) and depends on factors such as the nozzle diameter, the extrusion temperature, and the type of filament being used.

Volumetric flow is important for 3D printing because it affects both the quality and the speed of the printing process. If the volumetric flow is too low, the printer may not be able to fill the gaps between the layers, resulting in weak or incomplete prints. If the volumetric flow is too high, the printer may over-extrude, causing blobs, stringing, or clogging.

To achieve optimal volumetric flow, one needs to calibrate the flow rate (also known as extrusion multiplier) in the slicer settings. This is a factor that adjusts how much filament the printer pushes through the nozzle. The flow rate can be calibrated by printing a test object with known dimensions and measuring its actual dimensions with calipers. The flow rate can then be adjusted until the measured dimensions match the expected ones.

Alternatively, one can use a volumetric flow calculator to estimate the optimal flow rate based on the nozzle diameter, the filament diameter, and the maximum extrusion temperature. This can save time and material by avoiding trial-and-error prints. However, this method may not account for variations in filament quality or environmental conditions, so it is recommended to verify the results with a test print.

Volumetric flow is also relevant for volumetric 3D printing, a technique that creates objects by solidifying a whole resin volume with light beams. This method can produce complex shapes with high resolution and smooth surfaces without requiring support structures or layer-by-layer fabrication. However, this method also requires precise control of the volumetric flow rate to avoid over- or under-exposure of the resin.

If you are looking for a way to give your 3D prints a metallic finish, you might want to try Rub N Buff. Rub N Buff is a wax-based product that comes in various colors and can be applied to any surface with a cloth or a brush.

The first step to use it is to prepare your 3D print. Make sure it is clean and dry, and sand any rough edges or supports. You can also prime your print with a spray paint or an acrylic paint if you want to create a base color or cover any imperfections.

The second step is to choose your Rub N Buff color. There are many options available, from silver and gold to copper and bronze. You can also mix different colors to create custom shades. A little goes a long way, so you only need a small amount of Rub N Buff for each print.

The third step is to apply the Rub N Buff. You can use a soft cloth, a cotton swab, a brush, or even your finger. Rub the product gently on the surface of your print, following the contours and details. You can apply more or less pressure depending on how much coverage you want. You can also layer different colors to create highlights and shadows.

The fourth step is to buff the surface. After applying the Rub N Buff, wait for a few minutes until it dries slightly. Then, use a clean cloth or a paper towel to buff the surface with circular motions. This will remove any excess product and make the surface shine.

The fifth step is to seal the surface. This is optional, but recommended if you want to protect your print from scratches and fingerprints. You can use a spray varnish or a clear coat to seal the surface and add more durability.

That’s it! You have successfully used Rub N Buff for post processing 3D prints. You can experiment with different colors and techniques to create amazing effects. Rub N Buff is a versatile and easy-to-use product that can transform your 3D prints into realistic metal objects.

I see a lot of people trying to go straight for resonance compensation and linear advance before they have properly calibrated their machine(s). Until your machine is printing properly, it doesn’t make sense to go and configure these advanced settings. One of the most important steps to achieve this is to calibrate your 3D printer properly. Calibration is the process of adjusting the settings and parameters of your printer to match the physical reality of your machine and your filament.

The first thing you should calibrate is the extruder steps per millimeter (esteps). This is the number of steps that your extruder motor needs to take to extrude one millimeter of filament. If your esteps are too low, you will under-extrude and get gaps and weak layers in your prints. If your esteps are too high, you will over-extrude and get blobs and stringing in your prints. To calibrate your esteps, you need to measure how much filament is actually extruded when you command a certain amount and compare it to the expected value. Then you can calculate the correct esteps value and update it in your firmware or slicer.

The next thing you should calibrate is the X, Y, and Z axis steps per millimeter. These are the numbers of steps that your motors need to take to move one millimeter along each axis. If these values are wrong, your prints will be distorted and not match the dimensions of your model. To calibrate these values, you need to print a calibration cube and measure its sides with a caliper. Then you can compare the measured values to the expected values and calculate the correct steps per millimeter for each axis.

The third thing you should calibrate is the resonance compensation and linear advance. These are features that help to reduce ringing and improve extrusion consistency at different speeds. Ringing is the wavy pattern that you see on the edges of your prints when the printer changes direction abruptly. This is caused by the inertia of the moving parts and the elasticity of the belts and rods. Resonance compensation is a firmware feature that applies a counteracting force to dampen these vibrations. Linear advance is another firmware feature that adjusts the extruder pressure according to the speed and acceleration of the nozzle. This helps to prevent over-extrusion at corners and under-extrusion at gaps. To calibrate these features, you need to print some test patterns and adjust the parameters until you get smooth edges and consistent extrusion.

By following this sequence of calibration steps, you can improve the quality and accuracy of your 3D prints significantly. Recalibrate your printer whenever you change something in your hardware or filament, such as replacing a nozzle or switching to a different material. Happy printing!

If you are looking for ways to improve the print quality and speed of your 3D printer, you may want to tune two important settings: pressure advance and input shaping. In this blog post, I will explain what these settings do, how to tune them, and what to consider when choosing the appropriate filament.

Pressure advance is a feature that compensates for the elasticity of the filament and the extruder. When the extruder moves at a constant speed, the filament behaves like a spring and creates a lag between the extruder and the nozzle. This lag causes over-extrusion at the start of a line and under-extrusion at the end of a line. To avoid this, pressure advance adjusts the extruder speed according to the acceleration and deceleration of the print head. This way, the pressure in the nozzle is kept constant and the extrusion is consistent.

Input shaping is a feature that compensates for the vibrations of the printer frame and the print head. When the print head changes direction abruptly, it creates ringing artifacts on the print surface. These artifacts reduce the accuracy and aesthetics of the print. To avoid this, input shaping filters out the frequencies that cause vibrations and smooths out the motion of the print head. This way, the ringing artifacts are minimized and the print quality is improved.

To tune pressure advance and input shaping, you will need to print some test patterns and measure some parameters. There are different methods and tools for doing this, but one of the easiest and most popular ones is to use Klipper firmware and its built-in calibration tools. Klipper is an open-source firmware that runs on a Raspberry Pi and communicates with your printer via USB. It has many advanced features and allows you to fine-tune your printer settings with ease.

To use Klipper, you will need to install it on your Raspberry Pi and flash your printer board with a bootloader. Then, you will need to create a configuration file for your printer and upload it to Klipper. You can find detailed instructions on how to do this on Klipper’s website: https://www.klipper3d.org/

Once you have Klipper up and running, you can use its web interface or terminal commands to perform pressure advance and input shaping calibration. You can find detailed instructions on how to do this on Klipper’s documentation: https://www.klipper3d.org/Pressure_Advance.html and https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html

One thing to consider when tuning pressure advance and input shaping is the type of filament you are using. Different filaments have different properties that affect their elasticity and viscosity. For example, flexible filaments are more elastic than rigid filaments, and high-temperature filaments are more viscous than low-temperature filaments. These factors affect how much pressure advance and input shaping you need to apply. Therefore, you should tune these settings for each filament type you use.

A 3D printer Bowden tube is a flexible tube that connects the extruder to the hot end. It allows the filament to be pushed and pulled by the extruder motor without bending or breaking. However, sometimes the Bowden tube can get clogged and cause printing problems. Here are some possible causes and solutions for a clogged Bowden tube:

  • The filament is too soft or flexible. Some filaments, such as TPU or TPE, are very flexible and can bend inside the Bowden tube, creating friction and resistance. This can prevent the filament from feeding smoothly and cause clogging. To avoid this, use a stiffer filament or a direct drive extruder that eliminates the need for a Bowden tube.
  • The filament diameter is too large or inconsistent. If the filament diameter is larger than the inner diameter of the Bowden tube, it can get stuck or jammed inside the tube. This can also happen if the filament diameter varies along its length, creating bulges or knots. To avoid this, use a high-quality filament that has a consistent diameter and matches the size of your Bowden tube.
  • The Bowden tube is too long or bent. A longer Bowden tube means more friction and resistance for the filament to overcome. This can reduce the extrusion force and cause under-extrusion or clogging. A bent Bowden tube can also create kinks or pinch points that obstruct the filament flow. To avoid this, use a shorter Bowden tube that is as straight as possible and avoid sharp bends or twists.
  • The Bowden tube is worn out or damaged. Over time, the Bowden tube can wear out due to friction, heat, or abrasion from the filament. This can create rough or uneven surfaces inside the tube that can snag or scrape the filament. A damaged Bowden tube can also have cracks or holes that can leak molten filament or allow dust and debris to enter. To avoid this, replace your Bowden tube regularly and inspect it for signs of wear or damage.

Bowden tubes are flexible tubes that connect the extruder and the hot end of a 3D printer. They are used to guide the filament through the printer and prevent it from bending or tangling. Bowden tubes can improve the print quality and speed of a 3D printer, but they can also cause some problems if they are not installed or maintained properly. It doesn’t happen frequently, but when there is a problem with the tube it can cause problems and be difficult to diagnose.

One of the most common issues with Bowden tubes is clogging. Clogging can occur when the filament gets stuck inside the tube due to friction, heat, moisture, or dust. Clogging can affect the extrusion rate and quality of the print, and can also damage the extruder motor or the hot end. To prevent clogging, it is important to use high-quality filament that is compatible with the tube diameter and material. It is also advisable to clean the tube regularly with a cleaning filament or a compressed air blower. Additionally, it is recommended to use a tube cutter or a sharp knife to cut the tube ends at a 90-degree angle, as this will ensure a smooth and tight fit with the fittings.

Another common issue with Bowden tubes is kinking. Kinking can happen when the tube bends too much or too sharply, creating a permanent deformation in the tube wall. Kinking can reduce the inner diameter of the tube and increase the friction and resistance for the filament. This can lead to under-extrusion, stringing, or layer shifting in the print. To prevent kinking, it is important to use a tube that has enough stiffness and flexibility for the printer setup. It is also advisable to avoid bending the tube more than necessary and to secure it with cable ties or clips to prevent it from moving too much during printing.

A third common issue with Bowden tubes is wear and tear. Wear and tear can occur over time due to the constant movement and friction of the filament inside the tube. Wear and tear can cause the tube to lose its shape, smoothness, and elasticity, which can affect its performance and durability. To prevent wear and tear, it is important to replace the tube periodically when it shows signs of degradation, such as cracks, splits, or discoloration. It is also advisable to use a tube that has a high abrasion resistance and a low coefficient of friction, such as PTFE or Capricorn tubes.