Tag: 3dprint

If you have ever experienced a partial clog on your 3D printer, you know how frustrating it can be. A partial clog is when the filament does not flow smoothly through the nozzle, resulting in under-extrusion, poor print quality, and sometimes even nozzle jams. We will explain what causes a partial clog, how to identify it, and how to fix it.

What causes a partial clog?

A partial clog can be caused by various factors, such as:

  • Using low-quality or incompatible filament that contains impurities, moisture, or inconsistent diameter.
  • Printing at a wrong temperature that is too high or too low for the filament type.
  • Printing at a wrong speed that is too fast or too slow for the nozzle size and layer height.
  • Leaving the nozzle heated for too long without extruding any filament, causing heat creep and filament degradation.
  • Not cleaning the nozzle regularly or properly, allowing dust, debris, or burnt filament to accumulate inside.

How to identify a partial clog?

A partial clog can manifest itself in different ways, depending on the severity and location of the blockage. Some common signs of a partial clog are:

  • The extruder motor skipping steps or making clicking noises.
  • The filament curling or bending at the nozzle tip instead of coming out straight.
  • The filament coming out thinner or thicker than usual, or with gaps or blobs.
  • The print surface showing signs of under-extrusion, such as missing layers, holes, or roughness.
  • The print quality deteriorating over time, especially on long prints.

How to fix a partial clog?

The best way to fix a partial clog is to prevent it from happening in the first place by using high-quality and compatible filament, printing at the optimal settings for your printer and material, and cleaning the nozzle regularly and properly. However, if you already have a partial clog, here are some steps you can try to clear it:

  • Increase the nozzle temperature by 5-10°C and try to extrude some filament manually. This may help to melt any hardened or stuck filament inside the nozzle.
  • Use a needle or a wire to poke through the nozzle hole and dislodge any debris or burnt filament. Be careful not to damage the nozzle or the heating element.
  • Perform a cold pull or an atomic pull. This is a technique where you heat up the nozzle, insert a piece of filament, let it cool down slightly, and then pull it out quickly with a pair of pliers. This may help to pull out any residue or impurities from the nozzle along with the filament.
  • Replace the nozzle with a new one. This is the last resort if none of the above methods work. Make sure to use a nozzle that matches your printer model and filament type.

One of the most common problems that 3D printing enthusiasts face is when the layers of their prints do not stick together properly. This can result in weak or brittle prints, or even complete failures. In this blog post, I will explain some of the possible causes of this issue and how to fix them.

The first thing to check is the bed leveling. If the bed is not level, the nozzle will not be at the right distance from the surface, and the extruded filament will not adhere well. To level the bed, you can use a piece of paper and slide it under the nozzle while adjusting the screws on the corners of the bed. The paper should feel slightly tight between the nozzle and the bed.

The second thing to check is the bed temperature. If the bed is too cold, the filament will cool down too quickly and shrink, causing it to detach from the bed. If the bed is too hot, the filament will stay soft and deform, causing it to curl up. The optimal bed temperature depends on the type of filament you are using, but a general range is between 50°C and 70°C for PLA and between 80°C and 110°C for ABS.

The third thing to check is the nozzle temperature. If the nozzle is too cold, the filament will not melt properly and will not bond well with the previous layer. If the nozzle is too hot, the filament will ooze out of the nozzle and create blobs or strings on your print. The optimal nozzle temperature also depends on the type of filament you are using, but a general range is between 180°C and 220°C for PLA and between 230°C and 260°C for ABS.

The fourth thing to check is the print speed. If you print too fast, the filament will not have enough time to adhere to the previous layer before moving on to the next one. If you print too slow, the filament will stay in contact with the hot nozzle for too long and degrade or burn. The optimal print speed depends on many factors, such as the size and complexity of your model, but a general range is between 30 mm/s and 60 mm/s.

The fifth thing to check is the fan speed. The fan helps to cool down the filament after it leaves the nozzle and prevent warping or sagging. However, if the fan is too strong, it can also cool down the previous layer too much and prevent it from bonding with the next one. The optimal fan speed depends on the type of filament you are using, but a general rule is to use a low fan speed for ABS (around 10%) and a high fan speed for PLA (around 80%).

These are some of the most common causes of layer adhesion problems in 3D printing. By following these tips, you should be able to improve your prints and avoid frustration. Happy printing!

Do your parts look like biscuits? If you are new to 3D printing, you might have encountered some problems with your prints. One of the most common issues is when your prints look spongy or porous, instead of smooth and solid. This can affect the appearance, strength and functionality of your 3D printed objects. I will explain why this happens and how you can fix it.

The main reason why your 3D prints look spongy is because of under-extrusion. Under-extrusion is when your printer does not extrude enough filament to fill the gaps between the layers or the perimeters of your model. This can be caused by several factors, such as:

  • A clogged nozzle that prevents the filament from flowing smoothly
  • A worn-out extruder gear that does not grip the filament properly
  • A low extrusion temperature that makes the filament too viscous to melt
  • A high printing speed that does not give enough time for the filament to adhere to the previous layer
  • A low infill percentage that does not provide enough support for the top layers
  • A faulty slicer setting that does not calculate the correct amount of filament needed

To fix the problem of under-extrusion, you need to identify and eliminate the root cause. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot and improve your 3D prints:

  • Clean your nozzle regularly with a needle or a wire brush to remove any debris or burnt filament
  • Replace your extruder gear if it shows signs of wear and tear or slippage
  • Increase your extrusion temperature gradually until you find the optimal value for your filament type and brand
  • Reduce your printing speed to allow more time for the filament to bond with the previous layer
  • Increase your infill percentage to provide more support and stability for the top layers
  • Check your slicer settings and make sure they match your printer specifications and filament characteristics

By following these tips, you should be able to reduce or eliminate the sponginess of your 3D prints. Remember to always test your settings on a small and simple model before printing a large or complex one. Happy printing!

If you are into 3d printing, you might have wondered which slicer software is the best for your needs. A slicer is a program that converts a 3d model into instructions for your printer, such as layer height, speed, temperature, etc. There are many slicers available, but in this blog post we will compare and contrast some of the top ones: Cura, PrusaSlicer and Simplify3D.

Cura is one of the most popular and widely used slicers, developed by Ultimaker. It is free and open source, and supports a variety of printers and materials. Cura has a user-friendly interface and a large community of users who share their settings and profiles. Cura also has some advanced features, such as adaptive layer height, tree supports and ironing.

PrusaSlicer is another free and open source slicer, developed by Prusa Research. It is optimized for Prusa printers, but also compatible with other brands. PrusaSlicer has a sleek and modern interface, and offers some unique features, such as variable infill patterns, paint-on supports and automatic seam hiding.

Simplify3D is a premium slicer that costs $149. It claims to offer superior print quality and performance, and supports over 100 different printers. Simplify3D has a powerful and customizable interface, and allows you to control every aspect of your print. Simplify3D also has some exclusive features, such as dual extrusion wizard, intelligent support generation and mesh repair tools.

To summarize, each slicer has its own strengths and weaknesses, and the best one for you depends on your preferences, budget and printer. You can try them out yourself and see which one suits you best. Happy printing!

Layer shift is a common problem that can affect the quality and accuracy of your 3D prints. It happens when the print head or the bed moves out of alignment during the printing process, resulting in layers that are not aligned with each other. This can cause gaps, cracks, distortions, or even failed prints.

There are many possible causes of layer shift, such as loose belts, faulty stepper motors, incorrect settings, mechanical obstructions, or power fluctuations. To diagnose and fix layer shift, you need to check the following aspects of your 3D printer:

  • Belts: The belts that drive the X and Y axes should be tight and smooth, without any signs of wear or damage. If they are loose or frayed, they can slip or skip steps, causing layer shift. You can tighten or replace the belts as needed.
  • Stepper motors: The stepper motors that control the movement of the print head and the bed should be working properly and receiving enough power. If they are faulty or overheating, they can lose steps or stall, causing layer shift. You can test the motors by manually moving them and listening for any unusual noises or vibrations. You can also check the wiring and connections for any loose or damaged parts.
  • Settings: The settings that control the speed, acceleration, jerk, and retraction of your 3D printer should be optimized for your model and filament. If they are too high or too low, they can cause the print head or the bed to move too fast or too slow, causing layer shift. You can adjust the settings in your slicer software or on your printer’s LCD screen.
  • Mechanical obstructions: The print head and the bed should be able to move freely and smoothly along the X and Y axes, without any interference from the frame, the rods, the wires, or the printed parts. If there are any mechanical obstructions that block or limit their movement, they can cause layer shift. You can check for any debris, dust, or filament scraps that might be stuck in the rails or bearings. You can also make sure that the wires are properly secured and routed to avoid tangling or snagging.
  • Power fluctuations: The power supply that provides electricity to your 3D printer should be stable and consistent. If there are any power fluctuations that cause surges or drops in voltage, they can affect the performance of your 3D printer and cause layer shift. You can use a surge protector or a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) to protect your 3D printer from power issues.

If you’re a 3D printing enthusiast, you know that one of the most important decisions you have to make before printing is how to orient your model on the build plate. The orientation can affect the print quality, the functionality, and the amount of post-processing of your final product. I want to share some best practices that I’ve learned the hard way for determining the optimal orientation for your 3D prints.

First of all, you have to consider the print quality of your final product. This means looking at factors such as overhangs, supports, layer lines, and surface finish. Generally, you want to avoid printing overhangs that are more than 45 degrees from the vertical axis, as they can cause sagging and poor quality. You also want to minimize the use of supports, as they can leave marks and require extra work to remove. You can do this by orienting your model so that the most complex or detailed features are facing up or sideways. Additionally, you want to consider how the layer lines will affect the appearance and strength of your print. You can reduce the visibility of layer lines by orienting your model so that they follow the contours or curves of your design. You can also increase the strength of your print by aligning the layer lines with the direction of stress or load.

Secondly, you have to consider the intended use of your final product. This means thinking about how your print will function in its environment and what kind of forces or stresses it will encounter. For example, if you’re printing a hook or a bracket that will hold some weight, you want to orient it so that the layer lines are perpendicular to the direction of force. This way, you can avoid delamination or cracking along the layer lines. On the other hand, if you’re printing a decorative object that will not be subjected to much stress, you can orient it for aesthetic purposes and choose the angle that best showcases your design.

Thirdly, you have to consider the amount of post-processing that will be required for your final product. This means looking at how much time and effort you’re willing to spend on sanding, smoothing, painting, or gluing your print. Generally, you want to reduce the amount of post-processing by choosing an orientation that minimizes the need for supports, improves the surface quality, and reduces the number of parts or seams. You can also use some tricks such as using a raft or a brim to improve adhesion and prevent warping, using a higher infill percentage or wall thickness to increase strength and durability, and using a lower layer height or a finer nozzle to improve resolution and detail.

As you can see, there is no one-size-fits-all answer for determining the best orientation for your 3D prints. You have to weigh the pros and cons of each option and decide what matters most for your project. However, by following these best practices, you can improve your chances of getting a successful and satisfying print every time. Happy printing!

How to Make a Silicone Mold Out of a 3D Printed Piece

If you have a 3D printer and want to create multiple copies of an object, or if you want to cast your 3D printed piece in a different material, you might want to make a silicone mold out of it. Silicone molds are flexible, durable and easy to use.

What You Will Need:

  • A 3D printed piece that you want to make a mold of
  • Silicone rubber (you can use either tin-cure or platinum-cure silicone, depending on your preference and budget)
  • A mixing container and a stirring stick
  • A mold box (you can use any container that is slightly larger than your 3D printed piece, such as a plastic cup or a cardboard box)
  • Mold release agent (such as petroleum jelly or spray-on mold release)
  • A knife or scissors

Step 1: Prepare Your 3D Printed Piece

Before you make a mold of your 3D printed piece, you need to make sure that it is clean and smooth. You can use sandpaper, files or other tools to remove any rough edges or imperfections. You can also paint or prime your 3D printed piece if you want to improve its appearance or durability. However, make sure that the paint or primer is completely dry before proceeding to the next step.

Step 2: Apply Mold Release Agent

To prevent the silicone from sticking to your 3D printed piece, you need to apply a thin layer of mold release agent over the entire surface. You can use petroleum jelly, spray-on mold release or any other product that is compatible with silicone. Make sure that you cover every detail and crevice of your 3D printed piece. You can use a brush or a cotton swab to spread the mold release agent evenly.

Step 3: Place Your 3D Printed Piece in the Mold Box

Next, you need to place your 3D printed piece in the center of the mold box. The mold box should be slightly larger than your 3D printed piece, leaving some space around it for the silicone to fill. You can use any container that is sturdy and leak-proof, such as a plastic cup or a cardboard box. You can also use hot glue or tape to secure your 3D printed piece to the bottom of the mold box.

Step 4: Mix and Pour the Silicone Rubber

Now, you need to mix and pour the silicone rubber according to the manufacturer’s instructions. You can use either tin-cure or platinum-cure silicone, depending on your preference and budget. Tin-cure silicone is cheaper and easier to work with, but it has a shorter shelf life and may shrink slightly over time. Platinum-cure silicone is more expensive and sensitive to contamination, but it has a longer shelf life and does not shrink.

To mix the silicone rubber, you need to measure the correct ratio of part A and part B (usually 1:1 or 10:1) and pour them into a mixing container. Then, use a stirring stick to mix them thoroughly until they are well blended and have no streaks. Be careful not to introduce any air bubbles into the mixture.

To pour the silicone rubber, you need to slowly and carefully pour it over your 3D printed piece in the mold box. Start from one corner and move across the surface in a thin stream. Make sure that you cover every detail and crevice of your 3D printed piece. You can also tap or shake the mold box gently to help release any air bubbles trapped in the silicone.

Step 5: Let the Silicone Cure

After pouring the silicone rubber, you need to let it cure for the recommended time (usually between 6 and 24 hours) at room temperature. Do not disturb or move the mold box during this time. You can also place the mold box in an oven at a low temperature (around 60°C) to speed up the curing process.

Step 6: Remove Your Silicone Mold

Once the silicone is fully cured, you can remove your silicone mold from the mold box. Carefully peel off the silicone from the sides of the mold box and gently pull it out. You should be able to see your 3D printed piece embedded in the silicone. Then, use a knife or scissors to cut along the edge of your 3D printed piece and remove it from the silicone. You should now have a perfect replica of your 3D printed piece in silicone.

Congratulations! You have just made a silicone mold out of a 3D printed piece. You can now use this mold to cast

One of the challenges of 3D printing small, thin parts is heat dissipation. Heat dissipation is the process of transferring heat from the printed part to the surrounding environment. If the heat dissipation is not efficient, the part may warp, crack, or melt during or after printing.

There are several factors that affect heat dissipation in 3D printing, such as:

  • The material of the part and the print bed. Different materials have different thermal conductivity and specific heat capacity, which determine how fast they can transfer and store heat. For example, metals have high thermal conductivity and low specific heat capacity, which means they can quickly dissipate heat but also heat up quickly. Plastics have low thermal conductivity and high specific heat capacity, which means they can retain heat for longer but also take longer to cool down.
  • The geometry and size of the part. Smaller and thinner parts have less surface area and volume to dissipate heat than larger and thicker parts. This means they can overheat more easily and deform under thermal stress. Additionally, complex geometries with sharp corners, overhangs, or thin walls may create hot spots or weak points in the part that are more prone to warping or cracking.
  • The printing parameters and environment. The printing speed, temperature, layer height, infill density, cooling fan speed, and ambient temperature all affect the heat dissipation of the part. Generally, higher printing speed and temperature, lower layer height and infill density, higher cooling fan speed, and lower ambient temperature can improve heat dissipation and reduce warping. However, these parameters also depend on the material and geometry of the part and may need to be adjusted accordingly.

To improve heat dissipation in 3D printing small, thin parts, some possible solutions are:

  • Choose a suitable material for the part and the print bed. For example, use a material with high thermal conductivity and low specific heat capacity for the part, such as metal or carbon fiber composite. Use a material with low thermal conductivity and high specific heat capacity for the print bed, such as glass or ceramic. This way, the part can quickly dissipate heat to the print bed and the print bed can slowly release heat to the environment.
  • Optimize the geometry and size of the part. For example, increase the surface area and volume of the part by adding fins, holes, or channels to enhance heat transfer. Reduce the complexity of the geometry by smoothing sharp corners, eliminating overhangs, or increasing wall thickness to avoid hot spots or weak points.
  • Print a “sacrificial” part right next to your print. This has the same effect as increasing the surface area of the part and will give the part time to cool.
  • Adjust the printing parameters and environment. For example, lower the printing speed and temperature, increase the layer height and infill density, decrease the cooling fan speed, or raise the ambient temperature to reduce thermal stress on the part. However, these adjustments may also affect the print quality and strength of the part and should be done with caution.

Heat dissipation is an important aspect of 3D printing small, thin parts that should not be overlooked. By understanding the factors that affect heat dissipation and applying some solutions to improve it, you can achieve better results with your 3D prints.

Coasting and wipe distance are two settings that can affect the quality of your 3D prints.

Coasting is a setting that tells the printer to stop extruding filament a little bit before the end of a perimeter or an infill line. This helps to reduce the pressure in the nozzle and prevent oozing or stringing. Coasting can also reduce the amount of blobs or zits that appear on the surface of the print. However, coasting can also cause gaps or under-extrusion in some cases, especially if the coasting distance is too large or if the filament is not viscous enough.

Wipe distance is a setting that tells the printer to move the nozzle along the perimeter or the infill line after it stops extruding filament. This helps to smooth out the end of the extrusion and reduce any excess filament that may ooze out of the nozzle. Wipe distance can also improve the surface quality of the print by hiding any imperfections or seams. However, wipe distance can also cause over-extrusion or dragging in some cases, especially if the wipe distance is too large or if the nozzle temperature is too high.

Both coasting and wipe distance are useful settings that can help you achieve better 3D prints. However, they are not mutually exclusive and they may interact with each other in different ways depending on your printer, filament, and model. Therefore, it is important to experiment with different values and find the optimal balance for your specific situation. You can use a test model like this one (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363023) to see how coasting and wipe distance affect your prints and adjust them accordingly.

Level first, then mesh, then Z offset. Or do I set the Z offset first, then level then mesh? Or is it…

I always start with mechanical functions, then move to software compensation. No sense in trying to set a Z offset on a bed that’s tilted 20 degrees. Where would the offset even apply to? The highest point? The lowest point? I’m not sure.

First, set your mechanical level. This is done by turning the screws and making sure that your bed is mechanically aligned to your nozzle. Next, set your mesh to compensate for any variance in the bed flatness. I don’t use Z offset, I haven’t had to. But if you do, this is the point that you should implement it. The machine has a sense of where the bed is so it is able to apply an accurate Z offset.