Tag: 3dprint

Are you frustrated by Z banding in your 3D prints? Do you want to know what causes this annoying defect and how to fix it? If so, you’ve come to the right place!

Z banding, also known as Z wobble, is a common problem in FDM 3D printing that results in horizontal ridges or bulges on the sides of your printed objects. It can ruin the appearance and accuracy of your prints, and make them weaker and more prone to cracking. In a nutshell, your printer is moving when you don’t expect it to or want it to and you need to figure out why.

Z banding is caused by several factors that affect the movement of the Z axis, which controls the vertical position of the print head. Some of these factors are:

  • Misaligned or bent Z axis rods or lead screws
  • Loose or worn out couplers, bearings or rails
  • Inconsistent bed temperature or PID settings
  • Microstepping errors in the stepper motor drivers
  • Improper layer height settings

Fortunately, there are some simple ways to prevent or reduce Z banding in your 3D prints. Here are some tips that you can try:

  • Check and adjust the alignment of your Z axis rods or lead screws. Make sure they are parallel to each other and perpendicular to the print bed. Use a spirit level or a digital caliper to measure the distance between them at different points. If they are bent, replace them with new ones.
  • Tighten or replace any loose or worn out parts that connect the Z axis rods or lead screws to the stepper motors, such as couplers, bearings or rails. Make sure they are not too tight or too loose, as this can cause binding or backlash.
  • Enable a consistent bed temperature throughout your print by using PID tuning or setting a fixed temperature in your slicer. Avoid using auto bed leveling sensors that can introduce temperature fluctuations.
  • Use half or full step layer heights that match your Z axis pitch and avoid microstepping errors. For example, if your Z axis pitch is 8 mm and you have a 200 steps per revolution stepper motor, use layer heights that are multiples of 0.04 mm (8 / 200).
  • Stabilize your Z axis rods or lead screws by adding supports or braces at the top and bottom ends. This can prevent them from wobbling or vibrating during printing.

It never fails. It’s always the simple things that keep us humble.

I like to tinker, to optimize, and to get the best parts that I can out of my 3d printers. In doing so, I’m always upgrading, experimenting, and messing with settings.

At the end of the day, though, it’s important for me to remember that I’m just heating up plastic and squeezing it through a nozzle and that there are some fundamental things that need to be in place for that to happen. Sometimes, I lose track of that fundamental concept.

I upgraded my extruder a little while back. A better extruder means better parts, right? Well, that was true, for a little while. Over the weekend my 3d printer stopped extruding filament. I ended up thinking it was a clogged nozzle and completely took apart the hotend to find out what the problem was. It turned out to be that there was no problem…at that end.

I turned back to the extruder and took a closer look. After taking it apart and putting it back together about 600 times, it seemed like, I finally realized that the gears weren’t meshing properly. When I upgraded my extruder, I had aligned the gears close enough that they functioned properly at first. But after a while, the misalignment had caused my plastic gear to become worn and eventually stop extruding. New plastic gear ordered and old extruder put on the printer while I wait for the gear.

Back to basics. If you want to extrude something, your gears have to mesh well.

Getting the print to stick to the bed is a common challenge for 3D printer users. If the print does not adhere well, it can warp, curl, or detach during printing. To avoid this, many users apply some adhesive to the bed before printing. But what kind of adhesive should you use? And how do you apply it correctly? Here are some of the most popular adhesives for 3D printing and their pros and cons.

A glue stick is a cheap and easy option that works for most filaments and beds. You just need to apply a thin layer of glue stick to the bed in a circular motion. Glue stick provides good adhesion and can be removed with water or alcohol. However, glue stick can leave a residue on the print, affect its appearance or quality, and dry out over time.

Hairspray is a spray-on product that contains polymers that bond to the bed and the filament when heated. Hairspray works for PLA and ABS filaments and can be used on glass, metal, or plastic beds. You just need to spray a thin and even layer of hairspray on the bed before heating it up. Hairspray provides strong adhesion and can smooth out minor imperfections on the bed. However, hairspray can be messy, sticky, clog the nozzle or fan of your printer, and be difficult to remove from the bed and the print.

Painter’s tape is a type of masking tape that has a low-tack adhesive that does not leave any residue. Painter’s tape works for PLA and PETG filaments and can be used on glass, metal, or plastic beds. You just need to cut strips of tape and apply them to the bed in parallel lines, overlapping them slightly. Painter’s tape provides decent adhesion and can be removed by peeling it off. However, painter’s tape can wear out quickly, need to be replaced often, and affect the texture and appearance of the bottom layer of your print.

These are some of the most popular adhesives for 3D printing, but there are others. You may also want to try Kapton tape, PEI sheet, Magigoo, BuildTak, or 3DLac. The best adhesive for you may depend on your preference, filament type, bed material, printer settings, and budget. You may also want to experiment with different adhesives and techniques to find what works best for you. The key is to ensure that your print sticks well without causing any damage or difficulty in removal.

You might have heard of Klipper, a firmware that runs on a Raspberry Pi and communicates with your printer’s microcontroller. But what are the advantages of Klipper over stock Marlin firmware?

Klipper can improve your print quality, speed, and reliability. It can also unlock features that are not available in Marlin, such as pressure advance, input shaping, and automatic bed leveling.

How does Klipper achieve these benefits? The main difference is that Klipper offloads the complex calculations from the microcontroller to the Raspberry Pi, which has much more processing power and memory. This allows Klipper to use more advanced algorithms and higher precision for motion planning and control.

Imagine being able to print faster and smoother, with less ringing, ghosting, and blobs. Imagine having more control over your printer settings and parameters, without having to recompile and flash the firmware every time. Imagine having a web interface that lets you monitor and manage your printer from anywhere. These are some of the things that Klipper can offer you.

If you are interested in trying out Klipper, you will need a Raspberry Pi, a USB cable, and some patience. You can find detailed instructions on how to install and configure Klipper on its official website: https://www.klipper3d.org/. You can also join the Klipper community on Discord or Reddit for support and tips. Happy printing!

If you are new to 3D printing, you might encounter some problems with your prints that can be frustrating and confusing. One of the most common issues is a clogged nozzle, which can affect the quality and accuracy of your prints. In this blog post, I will explain how to diagnose a clogged nozzle and what symptoms to look for on your 3D printed part.

A clogged nozzle is when the filament gets stuck or blocked inside the nozzle, preventing it from extruding properly. This can happen for various reasons, such as using low-quality filament, printing at the wrong temperature, or having dust or debris in the nozzle.

A clogged nozzle can cause several problems with your prints, such as under-extrusion, stringing, blobs, gaps, or layer shifts. These symptoms can ruin your print and waste your time and filament. It is important to diagnose a clogged nozzle as soon as possible and fix it before it gets worse.

The good news is that diagnosing a clogged nozzle is not very difficult. You just need to pay attention to some signs that indicate that something is wrong with your nozzle. Here are some of the most common symptoms of a clogged nozzle:

  • Under-extrusion: This is when the nozzle does not extrude enough filament to fill the gaps between the layers or the perimeters. This results in thin or missing walls, weak infill, or holes in the print.
  • Stringing: This is when the nozzle oozes filament during travel moves, creating thin strings or hairs between different parts of the print. This can make your print look messy and require post-processing to remove them.
  • Blobs: This is when the nozzle extrudes too much filament at certain points, creating bumps or lumps on the surface of the print. This can affect the smoothness and accuracy of your print and make it look unprofessional.
  • Gaps: This is when the nozzle skips or misses some parts of the print, leaving empty spaces or holes in the model. This can compromise the integrity and functionality of your print and make it look incomplete.
  • Layer shifts: This is when the nozzle moves out of alignment during printing, causing the layers to shift or misalign. This can distort the shape and dimensions of your print and make it unusable.

If you notice any of these symptoms on your 3D printed part, check your nozzle for clogging and either fix or replace the nozzle.

Sometimes, in Cura, you may encounter gaps in your prints that affect the quality and appearance of your parts. I want to explain how to fill in any gaps in Cura using some simple settings and tips. I’m assuming a properly calibrated 3d printer. If you haven’t done that, do that first.

Gaps can occur in different parts of your prints, such as the top and bottom layers, the walls, or the infill. There are different reasons for these gaps, such as under-extrusion, incorrect nozzle size, low flow rate, or wrong layer height. To fix these gaps, you need to adjust some settings in Cura that affect the amount and distribution of material in your prints.

One of the most important settings to check is the line width, which determines how wide each extruded line is. The line width should match your nozzle size or be slightly larger (up to 120% of the nozzle size). If the line width is too small, there will be gaps between the lines. You can find the line width settings under the Quality category in Cura.

Another setting that affects the gaps is the flow rate, which controls how much material is extruded by the printer. The flow rate should be 100% by default, but you can increase it slightly (up to 110%) if you notice under-extrusion or gaps in your prints. However, be careful not to over-extrude, as this can cause other problems such as blobs or stringing. You can find the flow rate setting under the Material category in Cura.

A third setting that can help you fill in the gaps is the top/bottom pattern, which determines how the top and bottom layers are printed. The top/bottom pattern can be either lines, concentric, zigzag, or triangles. The lines pattern is the fastest and most common option, but it can leave gaps between the lines if they are not aligned properly. The concentric pattern can create a smoother surface, but it can also create gaps if the nozzle moves too far from the center. The zigzag pattern can fill in the gaps better than the lines or concentric patterns, but it can also create more travel moves and stringing. The triangles pattern can create a strong and uniform surface, but it can also increase the print time and material usage. You can find the top/bottom pattern setting under the Shell category in Cura.

A clogged nozzle is one of the most common problems that can affect your 3D printer. It can cause poor print quality, filament jams, and even damage your printer. I talk a lot about how to fix something after something has gone wrong, but I realized that it would be much better to explain how to avoid having a problem in the first place.

The first step is to choose the right filament for your printer. Different filaments have different melting temperatures, flow rates, and properties. Some filaments, such as ABS, PLA, and PETG, are easy to print with and have low chances of clogging. Other filaments, such as wood, metal, or glow-in-the-dark, have additives that can increase the risk of clogging. If you want to use these filaments, make sure you have a nozzle that can handle them, such as a hardened steel or ruby nozzle.

The second step is to clean your nozzle regularly. You can use a needle or a wire to poke through the nozzle hole and remove any debris or filament residue. You can also use a cold pull technique, which involves heating up the nozzle, inserting a piece of filament, letting it cool down slightly, and then pulling it out with a quick motion. This can help remove any material that is stuck inside the nozzle.

The third step is to calibrate your printer settings. You should check your extrusion multiplier, retraction distance, retraction speed, and temperature settings. These settings affect how much filament is pushed through the nozzle and how fast it cools down. If these settings are too high or too low, they can cause over-extrusion or under-extrusion, which can lead to clogging. You can use a calibration cube or a test print to fine-tune your settings and achieve optimal results.

One of the most common problems that 3D printing enthusiasts face is getting their prints to stick to the bed properly. If the print does not adhere well to the bed, it can warp, curl, or detach during the printing process, resulting in a failed print. This can be frustrating and wasteful, especially if you are printing large or complex models.

So what is the best way to get a 3D print to stick to the bed properly? There is no definitive answer to this question, as different printers, filaments, and settings may require different solutions. However, there are some general tips and tricks that can help you improve your bed adhesion and avoid common issues.

The first thing you need to do is make sure your bed is level and clean. A level bed ensures that the nozzle is at a consistent distance from the bed across the entire print area, which affects how well the first layer sticks. You can use a sheet of paper or a feeler gauge to check the gap between the nozzle and the bed at different points and adjust it accordingly. A clean bed prevents dust, oil, or other contaminants from interfering with the adhesion. You can use a cloth with some alcohol or acetone to wipe the bed before each print.

The second thing you need to do is choose the right bed temperature and surface for your filament type. Different filaments have different melting points and properties, which affect how they stick to different materials. For example, PLA usually sticks well to a heated glass bed at around 60°C, while ABS requires a higher temperature of around 100°C and may benefit from a layer of glue stick or hairspray on the bed. You can experiment with different temperatures and surfaces until you find the optimal combination for your filament.

The third thing you need to do is adjust your slicer settings to improve your first layer quality and adhesion. There are several settings that can affect this, such as layer height, line width, print speed, fan speed, and flow rate. Generally speaking, you want your first layer to be slightly thicker and wider than the rest of the layers, as this increases the contact area with the bed. You also want to print your first layer at a slower speed and lower fan speed, as this allows more time for the filament to melt and bond with the bed. You may also need to increase or decrease your flow rate depending on whether your first layer is over- or under-extruded.

When 3d printing, not every model is ready to be printed. Sometimes, the models have errors or defects that need to be fixed before printing. These errors are called non-manifold geometry, and they can cause serious problems if you try to print them.

Non-manifold geometry is when a model has edges or vertices that are shared by more than two faces, or when a model has holes or gaps in its surface. These errors make the model ambiguous and inconsistent, and they confuse the 3D printer. The printer does not know how to interpret the model or how to fill the space inside it.

If you try to print a model that has non-manifold geometry, you may end up with a failed print, a distorted print, or a print that does not match the original model. For example, you may get unwanted holes, gaps, spikes, or blobs in your print. You may also waste time and material on printing something that does not work or look good.

To avoid these problems, you need to repair your model before printing. There are many software tools that can help you detect and fix non-manifold geometry. Some of them are free and some of them are paid. Some of them are online and some of them are offline. Some of them are easy and some of them are complex. You need to choose the tool that suits your needs and preferences.

The extruder is the part of your printer that pushes the filament through the nozzle and melts it to create the layers of your 3D print. If the extruder is not working properly, you may encounter problems such as under-extrusion, over-extrusion, clogging, stringing, or poor adhesion. Here are some steps you can take to diagnose if your printer has an issue with the extruder:

  1. Check the temperature of the extruder. The temperature should match the recommended range for the type of filament you are using. If the temperature is too low, the filament may not melt enough and cause under-extrusion or clogging. If the temperature is too high, the filament may ooze out of the nozzle and cause over-extrusion or stringing. You can adjust the temperature using the printer’s settings or a slicer software.
  2. Check the tension of the extruder. The tension is the force that the extruder applies to the filament to push it through the nozzle. If the tension is too loose, the extruder may not grip the filament well and cause under-extrusion or skipping. If the tension is too tight, the extruder may deform or grind the filament and cause over-extrusion or clogging. You can adjust the tension by tightening or loosening the screws on the extruder.
  3. Check the alignment of the extruder. The alignment is the position of the extruder relative to the nozzle and the print bed. If the alignment is off, the extruder may not deposit the filament evenly and cause poor adhesion or warping. You can check the alignment by printing a test pattern and measuring the distance between the nozzle and the print bed at different points. You can adjust the alignment by leveling the print bed or adjusting the height of the nozzle.
  4. Check for any debris or damage in the extruder. The debris or damage may be caused by dust, dirt, filament residue, or wear and tear. If there is any debris or damage in the extruder, it may obstruct or interfere with the flow of filament and cause clogging, jamming, or inconsistent extrusion. You can check for any debris or damage by inspecting the extruder visually or using a needle or a wire to poke through the nozzle. You can clean or replace any parts that are dirty or damaged.