Tag: 3dprinter

Heat creep is a phenomenon that affects 3D printers, especially those that use a direct drive extruder. It occurs when the heat from the hot end travels up the filament and melts it before it reaches the nozzle, causing clogs, jams, and poor print quality. In this blog post, we will explore the causes of heat creep and how to prevent it.

One of the main causes of heat creep is poor cooling of the hot end. The hot end consists of a heater block, a heat break, and a heat sink. The heater block heats up the filament to melt it, the heat break transfers the heat to the heat sink, and the heat sink dissipates the heat with a fan. If the fan is not working properly, or if the heat sink is dirty or poorly designed, the heat will not be removed efficiently and will travel up the filament.

Another cause of heat creep is using a filament that has a low melting point or a high thermal conductivity. Some filaments, such as PLA, ABS, or PETG, have lower melting points than others, such as nylon or polycarbonate. This means that they can soften or melt at lower temperatures, which makes them more prone to heat creep. Similarly, some filaments have higher thermal conductivity than others, which means that they can transfer heat more easily along their length. This can also cause them to soften or melt before reaching the nozzle.

A third cause of heat creep is printing at high temperatures or speeds. Printing at high temperatures can increase the amount of heat generated by the heater block and make it harder for the heat sink to cool it down. Printing at high speeds can also increase the friction between the filament and the extruder gears, which can generate more heat and cause the filament to deform. Both of these factors can contribute to heat creep and affect the print quality.

To prevent heat creep, there are several steps that you can take. First, you should check your cooling fan and make sure that it is working properly and blowing air towards the heat sink. You should also clean your heat sink regularly and remove any dust or debris that might block the airflow. Second, you should choose a filament that has a high melting point and a low thermal conductivity, or adjust your printing temperature and speed accordingly. You should also use a good quality filament that does not have any impurities or inconsistencies that might affect its properties. Third, you should calibrate your extruder and make sure that it is not over-extruding or under-extruding filament. You should also use a retraction setting that minimizes stringing and oozing without causing too much pressure in the nozzle.

By following these tips, you can avoid heat creep and improve your 3D printing experience. Heat creep is a common problem that can ruin your prints and damage your printer, but it can be prevented with proper maintenance and settings. If you have any questions or comments about heat creep, feel free to leave them below.

If you are a 3D printing enthusiast, you may have encountered a frustrating problem: your nozzle seems to be clogged and no filament comes out. You try to clean it, replace it, or even upgrade it, but nothing works. What is going on?

The answer may surprise you: your nozzle may not be clogged at all, but rather your temperature may be too low. How can this happen? Let me explain.

When you print with a 3D printer, you need to heat up the filament to a certain temperature so that it can melt and flow through the nozzle. This temperature varies depending on the type of filament you use, but it is usually around 200°C for PLA and 230°C for ABS.

However, if your temperature is too low, the filament may not melt enough to flow smoothly. Instead, it may form a thick and sticky paste that accumulates inside the nozzle and prevents more filament from coming out. This can look like a clog, but it is actually a temperature issue.

How can you tell the difference? There are some signs that can help you diagnose the problem:

  • If your nozzle is clogged, you may hear a clicking sound from the extruder as it tries to push the filament through.
  • If your temperature is too low, you may see the filament curling up or forming blobs around the nozzle as it comes out.
  • If your nozzle is clogged, you may need to use a needle or a wire to clear it out.
  • If your temperature is too low, you may need to increase it by 5-10°C and try again.

To prevent this problem from happening in the future, you should always check the recommended temperature for your filament and make sure your printer is calibrated correctly. You should also avoid printing in cold or drafty environments that can affect the temperature of your nozzle.

I hope this blog post was helpful and informative. Happy printing!

If you are a 3D printing enthusiast, you may have encountered the frustrating problem of a clogged nozzle. This can happen when the filament gets stuck or melted inside the nozzle, preventing the extruder from pushing out more material. A clogged nozzle can ruin your print and waste your time and filament.

But what if the problem is not really a clogged nozzle, but something else? I will explain how improper tension on the extruder can masquerade as a clogged nozzle, and how to fix it.

The extruder is the part of the 3D printer that feeds the filament into the hot end, where it is melted and extruded through the nozzle. The extruder has a spring-loaded mechanism that applies pressure on the filament, pushing it against a drive gear or a hobbed bolt. This pressure is called tension, and it is essential for the extruder to work properly.

If the tension is too low, the drive gear or the hobbed bolt may slip on the filament, causing under-extrusion or skipping steps. This can result in gaps, holes, or weak layers in your print. If the tension is too high, the drive gear or the hobbed bolt may dig into the filament, causing over-extrusion or grinding. This can result in blobs, strings, or jams in your print.

Both under-extrusion and over-extrusion can look like a clogged nozzle, because they affect the amount and quality of material that comes out of the nozzle. However, a clogged nozzle is usually caused by a different issue, such as a dirty nozzle, a partial blockage, or a heat creep.

So how can you tell if your problem is really a clogged nozzle, or an improper tension on the extruder? Here are some tips:

  • Check your filament. If you see signs of grinding or slipping on the filament, such as flat spots, gouges, or dust, then your tension is likely too high or too low.
  • Check your extruder. If you hear clicking or popping noises from the extruder, then your tension is likely too high or too low.
  • Check your nozzle. If you see material oozing out of the nozzle when it is not printing, then your tension is likely too high. If you see no material coming out of the nozzle when it is printing, then your tension is likely too low.
  • Do a cold pull. A cold pull is a technique to clean your nozzle by heating it up, inserting a piece of filament, letting it cool down, and then pulling it out with force. If you see a clean tip on the filament after doing a cold pull, then your nozzle is not clogged.
  • Adjust your tension. Depending on your extruder model, you may have a screw, a knob, or a lever to adjust the tension on the filament. You want to find a balance between too much and too little pressure. A good rule of thumb is to make sure that the drive gear or the hobbed bolt leaves slight marks on the filament, but not deep enough to damage it.

Volumetric flow is a concept that relates to how much material a 3D printer can extrude in a given time. It is usually measured in cubic millimeters per second (mm³/s) and depends on factors such as the nozzle diameter, the extrusion temperature, and the type of filament being used.

Volumetric flow is important for 3D printing because it affects both the quality and the speed of the printing process. If the volumetric flow is too low, the printer may not be able to fill the gaps between the layers, resulting in weak or incomplete prints. If the volumetric flow is too high, the printer may over-extrude, causing blobs, stringing, or clogging.

To achieve optimal volumetric flow, one needs to calibrate the flow rate (also known as extrusion multiplier) in the slicer settings. This is a factor that adjusts how much filament the printer pushes through the nozzle. The flow rate can be calibrated by printing a test object with known dimensions and measuring its actual dimensions with calipers. The flow rate can then be adjusted until the measured dimensions match the expected ones.

Alternatively, one can use a volumetric flow calculator to estimate the optimal flow rate based on the nozzle diameter, the filament diameter, and the maximum extrusion temperature. This can save time and material by avoiding trial-and-error prints. However, this method may not account for variations in filament quality or environmental conditions, so it is recommended to verify the results with a test print.

Volumetric flow is also relevant for volumetric 3D printing, a technique that creates objects by solidifying a whole resin volume with light beams. This method can produce complex shapes with high resolution and smooth surfaces without requiring support structures or layer-by-layer fabrication. However, this method also requires precise control of the volumetric flow rate to avoid over- or under-exposure of the resin.

What to Check for on Your 3D Printer Nozzle

The first thing you should do is inspect your nozzle visually. Look for any signs of damage, such as cracks, dents, or scratches. If you see any, you should replace your nozzle.

Next, you should check if your nozzle is clean and free of any debris or filament residue. To clean your nozzle, you can use a brass brush or a needle to gently remove any stuck material. You can also heat up your nozzle and wipe it.

Finally, you should check if your nozzle is aligned with your print bed.

How to Maintain Your 3D Printer Nozzle

To keep your nozzle in good condition, you should perform some regular maintenance tasks. Here are some tips:

  • Clean your nozzle after every print or before changing filaments. This will prevent clogging and filament jams.
  • Use high-quality filaments that are compatible with your nozzle size and material type. Avoid using abrasive filaments, such as metal-filled or glow-in-the-dark ones, unless you have a hardened steel nozzle.
  • Store your filaments in a dry and cool place. Moisture and heat can degrade your filaments and cause extrusion issues.
  • Replace your nozzle when it wears out or gets damaged. A worn-out nozzle can have a larger or irregular diameter, which can affect the accuracy and quality of your prints.

How to Calibrate Your 3D Printer Nozzle

To get the best results from your 3D printer, you should calibrate your nozzle regularly. Calibration involves setting the correct nozzle temperature, flow rate, and retraction settings for your filament type and print quality. Here are some steps:

  • Find the recommended temperature range for your filament type and brand. You can usually find this information on the filament spool or the manufacturer’s website.
  • Heat up your nozzle to the lowest temperature in the range and extrude some filament. Observe how the filament comes out of the nozzle. It should be smooth and consistent, without any bubbles, curls, or strings.
  • Increase the temperature by 5°C increments and repeat the extrusion test until you find the optimal temperature for your filament. The optimal temperature is the one that gives you the best extrusion quality without causing overheating or oozing.
  • Find the recommended flow rate for your filament type and brand. You can usually find this information on the filament spool or the manufacturer’s website.
  • Print a calibration cube or a single-wall vase with 100% infill and no top or bottom layers. Measure the wall thickness with a caliper and compare it to the expected value (usually 0.4 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle).
  • Adjust the flow rate in your slicer software until the wall thickness matches the expected value.
  • Find the recommended retraction settings for your filament type and brand.
  • Print a retraction test model that has multiple towers with gaps between them. Observe how much stringing occurs between the towers.
  • Adjust the retraction distance and speed in your slicer software until you minimize stringing without causing under-extrusion or blobs.

Sometimes the extruder gear is clicking or skipping. This can affect the quality of your prints and cause under-extrusion, blobs, or gaps in the layers. This can be difficult to diagnose because the root cause is often at the other side of the printer.

The extruder gear is the part that pushes the filament into the hot end, where it is melted and deposited onto the build plate. The extruder gear has teeth that grip the filament and rotate to feed it. Sometimes, the extruder gear can click or skip, meaning that it slips on the filament and fails to push it forward. This can happen for several reasons, such as:

  • The nozzle is too close to the build plate, causing too much back pressure and preventing the filament from flowing out.
  • The nozzle is clogged or partially blocked by dirt, dust, or debris, reducing the flow of filament.
  • The nozzle temperature is too low, making the filament too viscous and hard to extrude.
  • The filament diameter is inconsistent or out of spec, causing variations in the extrusion rate and pressure.
  • The filament is tangled, kinked, or twisted, creating friction and resistance in the feed path.
  • The extruder tension is too high or too low, making the extruder gear either slip on the filament or crush it.

To fix the extruder gear clicking problem, you need to identify the root cause and address it accordingly. Here are some possible solutions:

  • Adjust the nozzle height and level the build plate, making sure there is enough gap between them for the filament to flow out smoothly.
  • Clean the nozzle and check for any clogs or blockages. You can use a needle or a wire to poke through the nozzle hole or perform a cold pull to remove any stuck material.
  • Increase the nozzle temperature slightly and see if it improves the extrusion. You can also try a different filament material or brand that has a lower melting point or better flow characteristics.
  • Measure the filament diameter with a caliper and make sure it is within the tolerance range of your printer. You can also adjust the extrusion multiplier in your slicer software to compensate for any variations in the filament diameter.
  • Check the filament spool and make sure it is not tangled, kinked, or twisted. You can also use a filament guide or a spool holder to reduce any friction or resistance in the feed path.
  • Adjust the extruder tension and make sure it is not too tight or too loose. You can use a screwdriver to turn the tension knob or spring on your extruder assembly. You want to find a balance where the extruder gear grips the filament firmly but not too hard.

One of the common problems that 3D printer users face is under-extrusion, which means that not enough filament is coming out of the nozzle. This can result in poor print quality, gaps, and weak layers. One of the possible causes of under-extrusion is that the filament is not heated up to its melting point, which means that it cannot flow smoothly through the nozzle.

How can you tell if your filament is not hot enough? Here are some signs to look out for:

  • The filament is curling or bending as it comes out of the nozzle, instead of forming a straight line.
  • The filament is making a clicking or grinding noise as it is pushed through the extruder.
  • The filament is brittle and breaks easily when you bend it.
  • The print surface is rough and uneven, with blobs and strings.
  • The print layers are not adhering well to each other, and the print is weak and fragile.

If you notice any of these signs, you may need to increase the temperature of your nozzle. You can do this by adjusting the settings on your 3D printer’s control panel, or by using a slicer software to set the temperature for each layer. The optimal temperature for your filament depends on the type and brand of filament you are using, as well as the ambient temperature and humidity. You can check the recommended temperature range on the filament spool or on the manufacturer’s website.

However, be careful not to overheat your filament, as this can also cause problems such as clogging, oozing, and burning. You can tell if your filament is too hot if:

  • The filament is dripping or leaking from the nozzle when it is not printing.
  • The filament is bubbling or smoking as it comes out of the nozzle.
  • The filament is discolored or charred.
  • The print surface is glossy and smooth, with no details or texture.
  • The print layers are sagging or warping, and the print is deformed.

If you notice any of these signs, you may need to lower the temperature of your nozzle. You can do this by following the same steps as above, but in reverse.

You can also use a temperature tower test to calibrate your nozzle temperature for different filaments. A temperature tower is a 3D model that prints at different temperatures along its height, so you can compare the results and choose the best one. You can find many temperature tower models online, or create your own using a slicer software.

If you are looking for a way to give your 3D prints a metallic finish, you might want to try Rub N Buff. Rub N Buff is a wax-based product that comes in various colors and can be applied to any surface with a cloth or a brush.

The first step to use it is to prepare your 3D print. Make sure it is clean and dry, and sand any rough edges or supports. You can also prime your print with a spray paint or an acrylic paint if you want to create a base color or cover any imperfections.

The second step is to choose your Rub N Buff color. There are many options available, from silver and gold to copper and bronze. You can also mix different colors to create custom shades. A little goes a long way, so you only need a small amount of Rub N Buff for each print.

The third step is to apply the Rub N Buff. You can use a soft cloth, a cotton swab, a brush, or even your finger. Rub the product gently on the surface of your print, following the contours and details. You can apply more or less pressure depending on how much coverage you want. You can also layer different colors to create highlights and shadows.

The fourth step is to buff the surface. After applying the Rub N Buff, wait for a few minutes until it dries slightly. Then, use a clean cloth or a paper towel to buff the surface with circular motions. This will remove any excess product and make the surface shine.

The fifth step is to seal the surface. This is optional, but recommended if you want to protect your print from scratches and fingerprints. You can use a spray varnish or a clear coat to seal the surface and add more durability.

That’s it! You have successfully used Rub N Buff for post processing 3D prints. You can experiment with different colors and techniques to create amazing effects. Rub N Buff is a versatile and easy-to-use product that can transform your 3D prints into realistic metal objects.

I see a lot of people trying to go straight for resonance compensation and linear advance before they have properly calibrated their machine(s). Until your machine is printing properly, it doesn’t make sense to go and configure these advanced settings. One of the most important steps to achieve this is to calibrate your 3D printer properly. Calibration is the process of adjusting the settings and parameters of your printer to match the physical reality of your machine and your filament.

The first thing you should calibrate is the extruder steps per millimeter (esteps). This is the number of steps that your extruder motor needs to take to extrude one millimeter of filament. If your esteps are too low, you will under-extrude and get gaps and weak layers in your prints. If your esteps are too high, you will over-extrude and get blobs and stringing in your prints. To calibrate your esteps, you need to measure how much filament is actually extruded when you command a certain amount and compare it to the expected value. Then you can calculate the correct esteps value and update it in your firmware or slicer.

The next thing you should calibrate is the X, Y, and Z axis steps per millimeter. These are the numbers of steps that your motors need to take to move one millimeter along each axis. If these values are wrong, your prints will be distorted and not match the dimensions of your model. To calibrate these values, you need to print a calibration cube and measure its sides with a caliper. Then you can compare the measured values to the expected values and calculate the correct steps per millimeter for each axis.

The third thing you should calibrate is the resonance compensation and linear advance. These are features that help to reduce ringing and improve extrusion consistency at different speeds. Ringing is the wavy pattern that you see on the edges of your prints when the printer changes direction abruptly. This is caused by the inertia of the moving parts and the elasticity of the belts and rods. Resonance compensation is a firmware feature that applies a counteracting force to dampen these vibrations. Linear advance is another firmware feature that adjusts the extruder pressure according to the speed and acceleration of the nozzle. This helps to prevent over-extrusion at corners and under-extrusion at gaps. To calibrate these features, you need to print some test patterns and adjust the parameters until you get smooth edges and consistent extrusion.

By following this sequence of calibration steps, you can improve the quality and accuracy of your 3D prints significantly. Recalibrate your printer whenever you change something in your hardware or filament, such as replacing a nozzle or switching to a different material. Happy printing!

If you are looking for ways to improve the print quality and speed of your 3D printer, you may want to tune two important settings: pressure advance and input shaping. In this blog post, I will explain what these settings do, how to tune them, and what to consider when choosing the appropriate filament.

Pressure advance is a feature that compensates for the elasticity of the filament and the extruder. When the extruder moves at a constant speed, the filament behaves like a spring and creates a lag between the extruder and the nozzle. This lag causes over-extrusion at the start of a line and under-extrusion at the end of a line. To avoid this, pressure advance adjusts the extruder speed according to the acceleration and deceleration of the print head. This way, the pressure in the nozzle is kept constant and the extrusion is consistent.

Input shaping is a feature that compensates for the vibrations of the printer frame and the print head. When the print head changes direction abruptly, it creates ringing artifacts on the print surface. These artifacts reduce the accuracy and aesthetics of the print. To avoid this, input shaping filters out the frequencies that cause vibrations and smooths out the motion of the print head. This way, the ringing artifacts are minimized and the print quality is improved.

To tune pressure advance and input shaping, you will need to print some test patterns and measure some parameters. There are different methods and tools for doing this, but one of the easiest and most popular ones is to use Klipper firmware and its built-in calibration tools. Klipper is an open-source firmware that runs on a Raspberry Pi and communicates with your printer via USB. It has many advanced features and allows you to fine-tune your printer settings with ease.

To use Klipper, you will need to install it on your Raspberry Pi and flash your printer board with a bootloader. Then, you will need to create a configuration file for your printer and upload it to Klipper. You can find detailed instructions on how to do this on Klipper’s website: https://www.klipper3d.org/

Once you have Klipper up and running, you can use its web interface or terminal commands to perform pressure advance and input shaping calibration. You can find detailed instructions on how to do this on Klipper’s documentation: https://www.klipper3d.org/Pressure_Advance.html and https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html

One thing to consider when tuning pressure advance and input shaping is the type of filament you are using. Different filaments have different properties that affect their elasticity and viscosity. For example, flexible filaments are more elastic than rigid filaments, and high-temperature filaments are more viscous than low-temperature filaments. These factors affect how much pressure advance and input shaping you need to apply. Therefore, you should tune these settings for each filament type you use.