Tag: 3dprinting

Every once in a while, I come across a really cool application for 3d printing. In 2015, the ancient city of Palmyra in Syria suffered significant damage at the hands of ISIS terrorists, including the destruction of the iconic Arch of Triumph. Subsequently, the Institute for Digital Archaeology (IDA), in collaboration with UNESCO, used 3D technology to create a scale replica of the arch. They utilized existing 3D models, photographs, and the detailed documentation available from before the destruction. A 20-foot-tall replica of the arch was 3D printed in sections using a stone-like material, and these sections were assembled to create a near-identical replica. This replica was then displayed in various locations around the world, including London and New York City, as a symbol of defiance and resilience, and to promote the importance of preserving cultural heritage.

If you love fishing, DIY, and 3d printing, why not combine all three and make some fishing lures? Here’s how:

  1. Find or design a 3D model of a fishing lure. You can use online platforms like Thingiverse or Cults to browse thousands of free models, or you can use software like Tinkercad or Fusion 360 to create your own. Make sure the model is suitable for 3D printing and has a hole for attaching the hook.
  2. Choose a suitable filament for your 3D printer. You want a filament that is strong, durable and water-resistant. PLA is a common choice, but you can also use PETG, ABS or Nylon. You can also experiment with different colors and effects, such as glow-in-the-dark or metallic filaments.
  3. Slice the model using a slicer software like Cura or PrusaSlicer. Adjust the settings according to your printer and filament. You may want to increase the infill percentage and the number of perimeters to make the lure more solid and heavy. You can also add supports if needed, but try to avoid them as much as possible to reduce post-processing.
  4. Print the lure using your 3D printer. Make sure the bed is level and the nozzle is clean. Watch the first few layers to ensure good adhesion and quality. Depending on the size and complexity of the model, the printing time may vary from a few minutes to a few hours.
  5. Remove the lure from the printer and remove any supports or brims. Use a knife, pliers or sandpaper to clean up any rough edges or defects. You can also use paint, markers or stickers to add more details and colors to your lure.
  6. Attach a hook to your lure using a split ring or a swivel. You can use any type of hook that matches the size and shape of your lure, such as treble hooks, single hooks or jig hooks. You can also add other accessories like beads, feathers or eyes to make your lure more attractive.
  7. Test your lure in the water and enjoy fishing! You can try different lures for different fish species, water conditions and seasons. You can also tweak your designs and settings to improve your results.

If you own a 3D printer, you may have encountered a frustrating problem: the bed level undoing itself. This can result in poor print quality, wasted filament, and even damage to your printer.

One possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is thermal expansion. As the printer heats up, the metal parts expand and contract, which can affect the alignment of the bed and the nozzle. To prevent this, you should make sure that your printer is in a stable environment, with minimal temperature fluctuations. Bring your bed to the proper temperature and let it heatsoak for a few minutes.

There are screws that go through the center of the bedsprings with nuts at the end of them. Check the screws and springs that hold the bed in place, and tighten them if they are loose.

Another possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is vibration. As the printer moves, it can generate vibrations that can loosen the screws and springs that hold the bed in place. To prevent this, you should make sure that your printer is on a solid and level surface, and that it is not exposed to external sources of vibration, such as fans or speakers. You should also check the belts and pulleys that drive the printer’s motion, and adjust them if they are too loose or too tight.

A third possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is wear and tear. Over time, the parts of your printer can wear out or break, which can affect the bed level. For example, the springs that hold the bed in place can lose their tension, or the bearings that guide the motion of the printer can wear out. To prevent this, you should regularly inspect your printer for signs of damage or wear, and replace any parts that are faulty or worn out.

A simple solution that many people opt for is to change out their springs for better quality springs or silicone spacers. They are relatively inexpensive and provide much better support than most factory installed springs.

One last thing to check is the z axis limit switch(es). If the machine homes too high above the build plate, there may not be enough tension on the springs to keep it in place properly. Resetting the limit switch(es) can help by applying tension on the springs and stabilizing the bed height.

One of the most important parameters to adjust when slicing a 3D model for printing is the layer height or step height. This is the thickness of each layer that the printer will deposit on top of the previous one, and it affects the quality, speed and strength of the print. I would like to discuss some of the things to consider when setting a step height in a 3D printer slicer.

The first thing to consider is the resolution and detail of your model. If you want to preserve fine details and smooth curves, you will need to use a lower layer height, as this will reduce the visible stair-stepping effect that occurs when printing curved surfaces. However, if your model is simple or has large flat areas, you can use a higher layer height, as this will not affect the appearance much.

The second thing to consider is the printing time and cost. The lower the layer height, the more layers you will need to print, and the longer it will take to finish the print. This also means that your printer will be unavailable for longer. No big deal if you are a hobbyist, but if you have a hourly price associated with your printer it can really increase the cost of your prints. On the other hand, the higher the layer height, the fewer layers you will need to print, and the faster it will finish.

The third thing to consider is the strength and durability of your print. The lower the layer height, the better the adhesion between layers, and the stronger your print will be. This is especially important if you are printing functional parts that need to withstand stress or impact. However, if you are printing decorative or non-functional parts, you can use a higher layer height, as this will not affect the strength much.

There is no single optimal layer height for every print. You will need to balance these factors and choose a layer height that suits your needs and preferences. A good rule of thumb is to start with a layer height that is half of your nozzle diameter, and adjust it up or down depending on your model and desired outcome.

Also, consider “magic numbers.” For most hobbyist FDM printers ideal step heights are in increments of 0.04mm.

Orca Slicer is an open source slicer for FDM printers that is based on Bambu Studio, which is a fork of PrusaSlicer. Orca Slicer offers some unique features and advantages over other slicers, such as Cura and PrusaSlicer.

Orca Slicer Pros:

  • It has a sandwich mode, which prints the inner and outer perimeters alternately, resulting in smoother and stronger walls.
  • It has a precise wall feature, which adjusts the extrusion width to match the model’s wall thickness, avoiding gaps or overlaps.
  • It supports Klipper firmware and has a built-in auto calibration feature for all printers.
  • It has more granular controls over print settings, such as overhang slowdown, adaptive bed mesh, first layer print sequence, etc.
  • It has a stealth mode, which disables connections to BBL HMS (Bambu’s cloud service) for privacy and security reasons.

Orca Slicer Cons:

  • It is still in development and may have some bugs or stability issues.
  • It does not have as many printer profiles or plugins as Cura or PrusaSlicer.
  • It does not have a built-in model repair or analysis tool like Cura or PrusaSlicer.

Cura Pros:

  • It is widely used and supported by many printer manufacturers and communities.
  • It has a large library of plugins and extensions that add extra functionality and customization options.
  • It has a powerful model repair and analysis tool that can fix common errors and optimize print quality.

Cura Cons:

  • It can be slow and resource-intensive, especially when slicing complex models or using many plugins.
  • It can be overwhelming and confusing for beginners, as it has hundreds of settings and parameters to tweak.
  • It does not support Klipper firmware or sandwich mode.

PrusaSlicer Pros:

  • It is developed by Prusa Research, one of the leading 3D printer companies in the world.
  • It has a sleek and intuitive user interface that is easy to use and navigate.
  • It has a built-in model repair and analysis tool that can fix common errors and optimize print quality.

PrusaSlicer Cons:

  • It is mainly designed for Prusa printers and may not work well with other printers or firmware.
  • It does not have as many plugins or extensions as Cura or Orca Slicer.
  • It does not support Klipper firmware or sandwich mode.

Conclusion:

Orca Slicer is a promising slicer that offers some unique features and advantages over other slicers, such as Cura and PrusaSlicer. However, it is still in development and may not be as stable or compatible as the other slicers. Cura and PrusaSlicer are more established and widely used slicers that have more printer profiles, plugins, and tools. However, they also have some drawbacks, such as performance issues, complexity, or compatibility issues. Ultimately, the best slicer for you depends on your preferences, needs, and printer. You can try out different slicers and see which one works best for you.

Z wobble is a common problem in 3D printing that causes the printed layers to shift or wobble along the Z-axis, resulting in a distorted or uneven surface. Z wobble can be caused by various factors, such as loose screws, bent rods, misaligned couplers, or poor quality lead screws. To fix Z wobble, you need to identify the source of the problem and make sure that all the components of the Z-axis are properly aligned, tightened, and lubricated. Here are some steps you can take to reduce or eliminate Z wobble:

  • Check the screws that hold the Z-axis rods and lead screws in place. Make sure they are not too loose or too tight. You can use a hex wrench to adjust them if needed.
  • Check the rods and lead screws for any bends or damage. If they are bent, you can try to straighten them using a hammer or a vise. If they are damaged, you may need to replace them with new ones.
  • Check the couplers that connect the lead screws to the stepper motors. Make sure they are not cracked or worn out. You can use a screwdriver to tighten them if needed.
  • Check the alignment of the Z-axis rods and lead screws. They should be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the X-axis and Y-axis. You can use a ruler or a level to measure the angles and distances between them.
  • Lubricate the rods and lead screws with a suitable grease or oil. This will reduce the friction and noise and improve the smoothness of the Z-axis movement.

If you ever go online to 3d printing chat rooms or help forums, you will inevitably have seen someone describe a problem with their 3d print to which someone will reply “your nozzle is too close to the bed.” What does this mean and what should you do about it?

When the nozzle of a 3D printer is too close to the bed, it can cause several issues.

  • The nozzle can scrape against the bed.
  • The nozzle can drag against the extruded filament and end up dislodging your part.
  • The nozzle can drag against the top of the layer and create a very rough first layer.

If you notice any of these issues with your printer or with your print you have a few options.

  • You can adjust the Z-axis offset
  • Relevel your bed
  • Lower your bed (also requires releveling)

I’ve been printing with FDM printers for a while now, but only recently started printing with resin. In FDM printing orientation of the part is important, but with resin it’s a big deal. It got me thinking, maybe orientation is more important to FDM printing than I realized. Here are a few things to consider.

The first thing to consider is the overhang angle of your model. This is the angle between the horizontal plane and the surface of your model. If the overhang angle is too steep, the printer will have trouble depositing material on thin air, and you will need to add support structures to prevent sagging or collapsing. Support structures can be useful, but they also have some drawbacks: they use more material, increase printing time, and leave marks on the surface of your model that need to be removed.

The second thing to consider is the layer direction of your model. This is the direction in which the printer lays down each layer of material. The layer direction affects the strength and appearance of your model. Generally speaking, 3D printed parts are stronger along the layer direction than across it, because there is less bonding between layers than within them. This means that you should orient your model in such a way that the layer direction aligns with the main stress direction of your part. For example, if you are printing a hook, you should orient it vertically so that the layers are parallel to the force applied by the weight hanging from it.

The third thing to consider is the surface quality of your model. This is how smooth and detailed your model looks after printing. The surface quality depends on several factors, such as the nozzle size, layer height, print speed, and infill percentage. However, it also depends on the orientation of your model on the build plate. Generally speaking, 3D printed parts have better surface quality on the top and bottom faces than on the sides, because these faces are printed flat on the build plate or in mid-air, without any interference from support structures or adjacent layers.

Of course, these three factors are not independent from each other, and sometimes you will have to compromise between them. For example, if you want to print a sphere, you will have to choose between having a smooth top and bottom face with lots of support structures on the sides, or having a smooth side face with a rough top and bottom face. There is no one-size-fits-all solution for every model, and you will have to experiment with different orientations to find the best one for your specific case.

Your first layer in 3d printing is everything. It’s the layer that ties your print to the bed…or not. If you don’t get your first layer down right then there’s a good chance your print will not be successful. So what should you be looking for in a first layer?

To achieve a perfect first layer, you need to consider three main aspects: bed surface preparation, bed leveling, and calibration.

Bed surface preparation involves cleaning and preparing the bed for maximum adhesion with your chosen filament.

Bed leveling involves adjusting the distance between the nozzle and the bed so that it is consistent across the entire print area. If the nozzle is too close to the bed, it will squish the filament too much and create a rough and thin first layer. If the nozzle is too far from the bed, it will extrude too much filament and create a loose and uneven first layer. You can level your bed manually by using a piece of paper or a feeler gauge as a spacer between the nozzle and the bed, and turning the knobs or screws on each corner of the bed until you feel a slight resistance. Alternatively, you can use an automatic bed leveling sensor or probe that measures the distance between the nozzle and the bed at multiple points and compensates for any irregularities.

Calibration involves fine-tuning your settings such as first layer height, first layer speed, first layer temperature, and first layer line width to optimize your first layer quality. These settings can vary depending on your printer model, filament type, and personal preference, but here are some general guidelines:

  • First layer height: A lower first layer height (such as 50% or 75%) can improve adhesion and smoothness, but it may also increase the risk of clogging or over-extrusion. A higher first layer height (such as 100% or 125%) can reduce print time and material usage, but it may also decrease adhesion and accuracy.
  • First layer speed: A lower first layer speed (such as 25% or 50%) can improve adhesion and accuracy, but it may also increase print time and stringing. A higher first layer speed (such as 75% or 100%) can reduce print time and stringing, but it may also decrease adhesion and quality.
  • First layer temperature: A higher first layer temperature (such as 5°C or 10°C above your normal print temperature) can improve adhesion and flow, but it may also increase warping and oozing. A lower first layer temperature (such as 5°C or 10°C below your normal print temperature) can reduce warping and oozing, but it may also decrease adhesion and flow.
  • First layer line width: A higher first layer line width (such as 120% or 150%) can improve adhesion and coverage, but it may also increase the risk of over-extrusion or elephant foot. A lower first layer line width (such as 80% or 100%) can reduce the risk of over-extrusion or elephant foot, but it may also decrease adhesion and coverage.

As I work with 3d printers more and more, one of my boys has been my copilot. Together, we troubleshoot. We celebrate the victories and mourn over the spaghetti messes that we create. If a design is simple enough, he does the design himself. Otherwise, I work with him to get what we’re looking for. It’s been a really fun experience to see him take an idea that solves a problem, go through the design process, create a part, and then iterate through the phases of design on his own.

It’s been a great learning experience for both of us. Now we’re getting into resin printing for the first time and we’re learning an awful lot together and having a great time. I’m really enjoying it.