Tag: 3dprinting

If you have a 3D printer, you might want to control it remotely from your computer or smartphone. This can be useful for monitoring the printing process, adjusting the settings, or stopping the print if something goes wrong. I would like to show you different ways to control your 3D printer remotely, depending on your budget and preferences.

The simplest way to control your 3D printer remotely is to use a USB cable and connect it to your computer. You can use software like Cura or Repetier-Host to send commands and view the status of your printer. However, this method has some limitations. You need to keep your computer on and close to your printer, and you can’t access it from another device or location.

A better way to control your 3D printer remotely is to use a Raspberry Pi (or clone), a small and affordable computer that can run Linux. You can install software like OctoPrint or AstroPrint on your Raspberry Pi and connect it to your printer via USB. Then, you can access your printer from any device that has a web browser, such as your laptop, tablet, or smartphone. You can also use a webcam to watch the print live, or use plugins to add more features, such as notifications, timelapses, or cloud storage.

Another way to control your 3D printer remotely is to use a dedicated device that connects to your printer via Wi-Fi or Bluetooth. There are several products on the market that offer this functionality, such as 3DPrinterOS, Printoid, or Polar Cloud. These devices allow you to control your printer from anywhere in the world, as long as you have an internet connection. You can also share your printer with other users, manage multiple printers, or access online libraries of models.

From time to time, people ask me “what should I upgrade on my 3d printer?”

My answer varies, but usually I ask them how long they’ve had it and been using it. If they just got it and are already looking to upgrade it, I usually encourage them to get to know the printer first before upgrading anything. Give it a few months and find out where the flaws are.

If they already had it for a while then we usually have a conversation about what is compelling them to want to upgrade? Are you just upgrading just to upgrade? Are you experiencing a specific problem that needs to be addressed? Did you just get some money for your birthday and just looking for something new to play with (it’s happened)? My response varies based on the answer. For me, I wanted to have greater control over the firmware settings without having to reflash the firmware each time I made a change. I wanted to increase my printing speed and really be able to optimize all of my settings. In my case, a shiny new extruder or fancy hotend would not have solved my issues. Upgrading to Klipper really made a huge difference in the problems that I was trying to solve.

One of the reasons why some 3D printer enthusiasts choose to upgrade from stock Marlin firmware to Klipper is the improved performance and accuracy of the printer. Klipper is a firmware that runs on a Raspberry Pi and communicates with the printer’s microcontroller via USB. This allows Klipper to offload the complex calculations and planning to the Pi, which has much more processing power and memory than the microcontroller. As a result, Klipper can achieve higher printing speeds, smoother movements, and better quality prints than Marlin. Klipper also has a simpler configuration system that uses a single text file instead of multiple header files. This makes it easier to customize and tweak the printer’s settings without having to recompile the firmware every time. Additionally, Klipper supports features that Marlin does not, such as pressure advance, input shaping, and automatic bed leveling with multiple probes.

What is FDM 3D Printing?

FDM 3D printing is a process that builds parts by extruding a melted plastic filament onto a build plate one layer at a time. The filament is fed through a heated nozzle that moves according to the part geometry. The plastic solidifies as it cools down and bonds with the previous layer. FDM 3D printing is the most well-known and widely used 3D printing technology, especially for hobbyists and makers.

What is DLP 3D Printing?

DLP 3D printing is a process that creates parts by curing a liquid photopolymer resin with a UV light source. The resin is contained in a vat with a transparent bottom, where a digital micromirror device (DMD) projects an image of the part cross-section onto the resin surface. The UV light hardens the resin in the exposed areas, forming a solid layer. The build platform then moves up and repeats the process until the part is complete. DLP 3D printing is a fast and high-resolution 3D printing technology, often used for dental, medical, and jewelry applications.

FDM vs DLP: Pros and Cons

FDM and DLP 3D printing have different strengths and weaknesses, depending on the application and requirements. Here are some of the main pros and cons of each technology:

FDM Pros

  • FDM printers are cheaper than DLP printers
  • FDM has a wider range of material colors and types, including flexible and composite filaments
  • FDM parts are stronger and more durable than DLP parts
  • FDM printers can produce larger prints than DLP printers

FDM Cons

  • FDM has a lower resolution and surface quality than DLP
  • FDM parts have weak interlayer adhesion and are prone to warping and cracking
  • FDM printers require more maintenance and calibration than DLP printers
  • FDM printing is slower than DLP printing

DLP Pros

  • DLP has a higher resolution and surface quality than FDM
  • DLP parts have isotropic properties and are more accurate than FDM parts
  • DLP printers require less maintenance and calibration than FDM printers
  • DLP printing is faster than FDM printing

DLP Cons

  • DLP printers are more expensive than FDM printers
  • DLP has a limited range of material colors and types, mostly transparent or translucent resins
  • DLP parts are brittle and sensitive to UV light degradation
  • DLP printers have a smaller build volume than FDM printers

Conclusion

FDM and DLP 3D printing are both useful technologies that can create different types of products. The choice between them depends on factors such as cost, speed, quality, strength, size, and material. For example, if you want to print a large prototype that requires some strength, you might prefer FDM over DLP. On the other hand, if you want to print a small model that requires high detail and accuracy, you might choose DLP over FDM.

3D printing is an amazing technology that allows you to create anything you can imagine. However, it is not always easy to get the perfect print. Sometimes, you may encounter problems such as stringing, warping, clogging, or under-extrusion. These problems can ruin your print quality and waste your time and filament.

Today, I would like to step out of the technical aspects of 3d printing and talk a little bit about more of a process. I want to demonstrate the process that I go through in taking a symptom, such as “my 3d print has a lot of stringing” or “my 3d print is coming off of the bed” and turn that into actionable troubleshooting steps. Granted, some of this is knowledge that comes with experience, and there just isn’t a way around that part of it.

Step 1: Identify the symptom

The first step is to identify the symptom that you are experiencing. For example, stringing is when thin strands of filament are left between different parts of your print. Warping is when the edges of your print curl up and detach from the bed. Clogging is when the nozzle gets blocked by melted filament and prevents extrusion. Under-extrusion is when the nozzle does not extrude enough filament and leaves gaps or holes in your print.

Step 2: Find the possible causes

The next step is to find the possible causes of your symptom. For example, stringing can be caused by high printing temperature, low retraction speed, or too much moisture in the filament. Warping can be caused by low bed temperature, poor bed adhesion, or large temperature differences between layers. Clogging can be caused by dirty nozzle, incompatible filament materials, or incorrect nozzle size. Under-extrusion can be caused by low printing temperature, low flow rate, or partial clogging. This step is done either by trial and error or research. I prefer research.

Step 3: Apply the solutions

The final step is to apply the solutions that can fix your problem. A solution is a method or action that can eliminate or reduce the cause of your symptom and improve your print quality. For example, to reduce stringing, you can lower your printing temperature, increase your retraction speed, or dry your filament before printing. To prevent warping, you can increase your bed temperature, use a raft or brim, or enclose your printer to maintain a stable temperature. To clear clogging, you can clean your nozzle with a needle or a wire brush, use compatible filament materials, or change your nozzle size. To avoid under-extrusion, you can increase your printing temperature, increase your flow rate, or check for partial clogging.

A part cooling fan helps to cool down the extruded filament and improve the print quality. However, sometimes the fan may stop working or malfunction, causing various problems such as warping, stringing, or poor surface finish. I want to show you how to troubleshoot 3D printer part cooling fans and fix some common issues.

The first thing you need to do is to check if the fan is spinning at all. You can do this by turning on your 3D printer and looking at the fan. If the fan is not spinning, there may be a problem with the power supply, the wiring, or the fan itself. To test the power supply, you can use a multimeter to measure the voltage across the fan terminals. The voltage should be around 12V or 24V, depending on your printer model. If the voltage is too low or too high, you may need to replace the power supply or adjust the voltage regulator.

If the power supply is fine, you can check the wiring for any loose connections, broken wires, or short circuits. You can use a continuity tester to check if there is a complete circuit between the fan terminals and the power supply. If there is no continuity, you may need to solder or replace the wires. If there is continuity, but the fan still does not spin, you may have a faulty fan. You can try to spin the fan manually and see if it rotates smoothly. If it feels stiff or makes noise, you may need to lubricate or replace the fan.

If the fan is spinning, but not enough to cool down the part, you may have a problem with the fan speed, the fan duct, or the print settings. To test the fan speed, you can use a tachometer to measure the revolutions per minute (RPM) of the fan. The RPM should be around 3000 to 5000, depending on your printer model. If the RPM is too low, you may need to increase the fan speed in your slicer settings or replace the fan with a more powerful one.

If the fan speed is fine, you can check the fan duct for any blockages, cracks, or misalignments. The fan duct is the part that directs the airflow from the fan to the nozzle and the part. You can use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the duct and see if there is any dust, debris, or filament stuck inside. You can also check if the duct is cracked or broken and if it is aligned properly with the nozzle and the part. If there is any problem with the duct, you may need to clean, repair, or replace it.

Finally, you can check your print settings for any factors that may affect the cooling performance. Some of these factors are:

  • Layer height: A lower layer height means more layers and more time for cooling.
  • Print speed: A slower print speed means more time for cooling.
  • Fan speed: A higher fan speed means more airflow and more cooling.
  • Minimum layer time: A longer minimum layer time means more time for cooling.
  • Cooling threshold: A lower cooling threshold means more layers with full cooling.
  • Bridging settings: Bridging settings control how much cooling is applied when printing overhangs.

You can experiment with different combinations of these settings and see which one gives you the best results. You can also use some online tools or guides to help you optimize your settings for different materials and models.

If you are using the same settings on your 3D printer, but all of a sudden your prints start failing, you might be wondering what is going on. Here are some possible causes and solutions to troubleshoot your 3D printing problems.

  • Check the filament. Sometimes the filament can get tangled, kinked, or broken, which can affect the quality of your prints. Make sure the filament is feeding smoothly and evenly into the extruder. If the filament is brittle or has moisture in it, you might need to replace it or dry it out.
  • Check the nozzle. The nozzle is the part that melts and deposits the filament onto the print bed. If the nozzle is clogged, dirty, or damaged, it can cause under-extrusion, blobs, stringing, or other issues. You can try to clean the nozzle with a needle or a wire brush, or replace it if it is worn out.
  • Check the bed leveling. The bed leveling is the process of adjusting the distance between the nozzle and the print bed. If the bed is not level, it can cause the first layer to be uneven, which can affect the adhesion and accuracy of your prints. You can use a piece of paper or a feeler gauge to check the gap between the nozzle and the bed at different points, and adjust the screws or knobs accordingly.
  • Check the temperature. The temperature is one of the most important factors that affect the quality of your prints. If the temperature is too high or too low, it can cause warping, cracking, stringing, or other issues. You can use a thermometer or a thermal camera to check the temperature of the nozzle and the bed, and adjust them according to the recommended settings for your filament type and model.
  • Check the speed. The speed is another factor that affects the quality of your prints. If the speed is too fast or too slow, it can cause over-extrusion, under-extrusion, ringing, or other issues. You can use a stopwatch or a software to check the speed of your printer, and adjust it according to the complexity and size of your model.

If you are using Klipper as your firmware for 3D printing, you might be wondering how to get the best performance out of your machine. One way to improve the quality of your prints is to upgrade your Raspberry Pi, the device that runs Klipper and communicates with your printer. Here are some reasons why upgrading your Raspberry Pi can make a difference.

First, a newer Raspberry Pi model will have more processing power and memory than an older one. This means that it can handle more complex calculations and commands, which are essential for Klipper’s features such as pressure advance, input shaping, and mesh bed leveling. A faster Raspberry Pi can also reduce the latency and jitter in the communication between the Pi and the printer, which can affect the smoothness and accuracy of the movements.

Second, a newer Raspberry Pi model will have more connectivity options and ports than an older one. This means that you can connect more devices and peripherals to your Pi, such as a webcam, a touchscreen, or a USB drive. You can also use a faster network connection, such as Wi-Fi or Ethernet, to transfer files and control your printer remotely. A more connected Raspberry Pi can enhance your 3D printing experience and make it more convenient and flexible.

Third, a newer Raspberry Pi model will have better software support and compatibility than an older one. This means that you can run the latest version of Klipper and its dependencies, such as Python and Linux, without any issues or errors. You can also benefit from the updates and bug fixes that are regularly released by the Klipper developers and the Raspberry Pi Foundation. A more updated Raspberry Pi can ensure that your 3D printing system is stable and secure.

Have you ever wondered why your 3D prints sometimes don’t stick to the bed or have warped edges? One possible reason is that your bed is not properly warmed up before you start printing. Sometimes, you need to let your bed “soak” for a little while before you begin printing.

The bed of a 3D printer is usually made of metal, glass, or plastic, and it is heated by a heating element underneath. The purpose of heating the bed is to provide a stable and smooth surface for the first layer of the print to adhere to, and to prevent thermal contraction of the material as it cools down. However, heating the bed also causes it to expand and contract slightly, which can affect its shape and flatness.

Depending on the material and thickness of the bed, it can take some time for the bed to reach a uniform temperature and stabilize its shape. If you start printing too soon, the bed may still be flexing and adjusting its shape as it warms up, which can cause uneven adhesion, gaps, or curling of the first layer. This can ruin the quality of your print or even make it fail completely.

To avoid this problem, you should always preheat your bed before you start printing. You can do this by setting the bed temperature in your slicer software or on your printer’s LCD screen, and waiting for a few minutes until the temperature is reached and stable. I’ve found it very helpful to set my hotend and bed temperatures, and then go get a cup of coffee. I’ve found that the time it takes me to do this is good enough for the bed to be thoroughly heated, not just heated where the sensor itself is. If you want a more technical answer you can use a thermometer or an infrared camera to check the temperature distribution on the bed surface and make sure it is consistent.

By preheating your bed properly, you can ensure that your first layer sticks well and that your print has a solid foundation. This will improve the quality and reliability of your 3D prints and save you time and frustration. So next time you are ready to print something, don’t forget to get a cup of coffee!

My daughter recently asked me to print something for her in two entirely different types of filaments. To do so would require me to change almost all of the settings partway through the printing process. Here is how I did it with the post processing script plugin for Cura. This plugin allows you to add custom g-code commands at specific layers or heights of your print, which can override the default settings of your slicer.

To use the post processing script plugin, you need to have Cura installed on your computer. You can download it from https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura. Once you have Cura open, load your model and slice it as usual. Then, go to the Extensions menu and select Post Processing > Modify G-Code. This will open a new window where you can add, edit, or delete scripts.

To add a new script, click on the Add a script button and choose one from the list. There are many scripts available, such as ChangeAtZ, PauseAtHeight, FilamentChange, etc. For this example, I will use the ChangeAtZ script, which lets you change any parameter at a given layer or height. After selecting the script, you will see a list of options that you can modify. For example, you can choose whether to trigger the script by layer or by height, what parameter to change, and what value to set it to. You can also add a comment to remind yourself what the script does.

For example, let’s say I want to change the temperature from 200°C to 220°C at layer 50 of my print. I would select the ChangeAtZ script and set the following options:

  • Trigger: Layer No.
  • Layer No.: 50
  • Behavior: Keep value
  • Change extruder 1 temp: True
  • Extruder 1 temp: 220
  • Comment: Increase temperature

This will insert a custom g-code command at layer 50 that will set the temperature of extruder 1 to 220°C and keep it until the end of the print. You can add multiple scripts if you want to change more than one parameter or change them multiple times during the print. You can also edit or delete scripts by clicking on the pencil or trash icons next to them.

Once you are done with adding scripts, click on Close and save your g-code file as usual. Then, transfer it to your printer and start printing. You should see your parameter changes take effect at the specified layers or heights of your print.

The post processing script plugin for Cura is a powerful tool that can help you fine-tune your prints and achieve better results. You can use it to experiment with different settings and see how they affect your print quality, speed, or appearance. You can also use it to create some interesting effects, such as changing colors, pausing for inserts, or adding text or logos. The possibilities are endless!