Tag: configuration

A thermistor is a device that measures and controls the temperature of your 3D printer’s hot end and heated bed. It is a vital component for successful 3D printing, as it ensures that your printer operates at the optimal temperature for your chosen filament.

However, thermistors are also fragile and prone to damage or malfunction. A bad thermistor can cause a variety of problems, such as inaccurate temperature readings, thermal runaway, print errors, and poor print quality.

How to Diagnose a Bad Thermistor on a 3D Printer

There are several ways to check if your thermistor is working properly or not. Here are some of the most common methods:

  • Use a multimeter. A multimeter is a device that can measure the resistance of your thermistor. You can use it to compare the resistance value of your thermistor with the expected value from the manufacturer’s specifications or a resistance-temperature table. If the values are significantly different, your thermistor may be faulty.
  • Use a diagnostic test. Some 3D printers have built-in diagnostic tests that can check the functionality of your thermistor. You can access these tests from your printer’s menu or software. If the test fails or shows an error code, your thermistor may be faulty.
  • Look for symptoms. A bad thermistor can also cause some noticeable symptoms that affect your printing process. Some of these symptoms are:
  • Thermal runaway. This is when your printer’s temperature goes out of control and exceeds the safety limit. This can damage your printer or even cause a fire. Thermal runaway can happen if your thermistor is loose, broken, or shorted.
  • Higher than usual print temperatures. If your printer requires a higher temperature than the recommended one to extrude your filament, your thermistor may be faulty. This can result in over-extrusion, stringing, oozing, or blobbing.

What to Do About a Bad Thermistor on a 3D Printer

If you suspect that your thermistor is bad, you should replace it as soon as possible.Here are some general guidelines:

  • Replacing the thermistor on your hot end:
  • Turn off and unplug your printer.
  • Wait for the hot end to cool down completely.
  • Remove any filament from the extruder.
  • Remove any fan shrouds or covers that block access to the hot end.
  • Locate the thermistor on the hot end. It is usually a small cylinder with two wires attached to it.
  • Carefully disconnect the wires from the thermistor. You may need to cut them or use a screwdriver to loosen them.
  • Remove the old thermistor from the hot end. You may need to unscrew it or pull it out gently.
  • Insert the new thermistor into the hot end. Make sure it fits snugly and securely.
  • Connect the wires from the new thermistor to the wiring on your printer. Make sure they match the polarity and color coding of the old ones.
  • Reattach any fan shrouds or covers that you removed earlier.
  • Turn on and plug in your printer.
  • Calibrate your new thermistor using your printer’s menu or software.

From time to time, people ask me “what should I upgrade on my 3d printer?”

My answer varies, but usually I ask them how long they’ve had it and been using it. If they just got it and are already looking to upgrade it, I usually encourage them to get to know the printer first before upgrading anything. Give it a few months and find out where the flaws are.

If they already had it for a while then we usually have a conversation about what is compelling them to want to upgrade? Are you just upgrading just to upgrade? Are you experiencing a specific problem that needs to be addressed? Did you just get some money for your birthday and just looking for something new to play with (it’s happened)? My response varies based on the answer. For me, I wanted to have greater control over the firmware settings without having to reflash the firmware each time I made a change. I wanted to increase my printing speed and really be able to optimize all of my settings. In my case, a shiny new extruder or fancy hotend would not have solved my issues. Upgrading to Klipper really made a huge difference in the problems that I was trying to solve.

One of the reasons why some 3D printer enthusiasts choose to upgrade from stock Marlin firmware to Klipper is the improved performance and accuracy of the printer. Klipper is a firmware that runs on a Raspberry Pi and communicates with the printer’s microcontroller via USB. This allows Klipper to offload the complex calculations and planning to the Pi, which has much more processing power and memory than the microcontroller. As a result, Klipper can achieve higher printing speeds, smoother movements, and better quality prints than Marlin. Klipper also has a simpler configuration system that uses a single text file instead of multiple header files. This makes it easier to customize and tweak the printer’s settings without having to recompile the firmware every time. Additionally, Klipper supports features that Marlin does not, such as pressure advance, input shaping, and automatic bed leveling with multiple probes.

What is FDM 3D Printing?

FDM 3D printing is a process that builds parts by extruding a melted plastic filament onto a build plate one layer at a time. The filament is fed through a heated nozzle that moves according to the part geometry. The plastic solidifies as it cools down and bonds with the previous layer. FDM 3D printing is the most well-known and widely used 3D printing technology, especially for hobbyists and makers.

What is DLP 3D Printing?

DLP 3D printing is a process that creates parts by curing a liquid photopolymer resin with a UV light source. The resin is contained in a vat with a transparent bottom, where a digital micromirror device (DMD) projects an image of the part cross-section onto the resin surface. The UV light hardens the resin in the exposed areas, forming a solid layer. The build platform then moves up and repeats the process until the part is complete. DLP 3D printing is a fast and high-resolution 3D printing technology, often used for dental, medical, and jewelry applications.

FDM vs DLP: Pros and Cons

FDM and DLP 3D printing have different strengths and weaknesses, depending on the application and requirements. Here are some of the main pros and cons of each technology:

FDM Pros

  • FDM printers are cheaper than DLP printers
  • FDM has a wider range of material colors and types, including flexible and composite filaments
  • FDM parts are stronger and more durable than DLP parts
  • FDM printers can produce larger prints than DLP printers

FDM Cons

  • FDM has a lower resolution and surface quality than DLP
  • FDM parts have weak interlayer adhesion and are prone to warping and cracking
  • FDM printers require more maintenance and calibration than DLP printers
  • FDM printing is slower than DLP printing

DLP Pros

  • DLP has a higher resolution and surface quality than FDM
  • DLP parts have isotropic properties and are more accurate than FDM parts
  • DLP printers require less maintenance and calibration than FDM printers
  • DLP printing is faster than FDM printing

DLP Cons

  • DLP printers are more expensive than FDM printers
  • DLP has a limited range of material colors and types, mostly transparent or translucent resins
  • DLP parts are brittle and sensitive to UV light degradation
  • DLP printers have a smaller build volume than FDM printers

Conclusion

FDM and DLP 3D printing are both useful technologies that can create different types of products. The choice between them depends on factors such as cost, speed, quality, strength, size, and material. For example, if you want to print a large prototype that requires some strength, you might prefer FDM over DLP. On the other hand, if you want to print a small model that requires high detail and accuracy, you might choose DLP over FDM.

Level the bed, print. Turn off the printer for the night. Try to print. Bed needs to be leveled. Level the bed. Print. Turn off the printer for the night. Repeat. If this is happening to you, your bed may be wobbly because the D rings are loose. A lot of times, the adjustments will be stable until the printer is turned off and turned back on. It will seem like your bed is constantly losing its level. This is because…well…it is. Most beds ride on a series of bearings that ride in a track or v-groove. To adjust the tightness of these bearings to the track many manufacturers use a D ring, which is a ring that fits in the middle of the bearing to hold it in place, but it has a hole that is off-center so that it can be adjusted.

The D rings are usually located on the four corners of the bed, and they have screws that can be tightened or loosened to adjust the tension of the bed. Here are the steps to adjust the D rings on a 3D printer bed that is loose:

  1. Turn off the printer and let the bed cool down completely. Do not touch the bed when it is hot, as you may burn yourself or damage the bed surface.
  2. Locate the D rings under the surface of the bed. You may need to remove the print surface or the glass plate to access them.
  3. Use a screwdriver or an Allen wrench to loosen the screws on the D rings slightly. Do not remove them completely, as you may lose them or damage the bed.
  4. Gently lift one corner of the bed and check if it is loose or tight. If needed, rotate the D rings to adjust the tightness against the track.
  5. At their proper tightness, the D rings will prevent the bed from wobbling, but will not inhibit the bed from moving back and forth.
  6. Replace the print surface or the glass plate and turn on the printer.
  7. Perform a bed leveling procedure to ensure that the bed is flat and even. You can use a piece of paper or a feeler gauge to check if there is a consistent gap between the nozzle and the bed on all four corners.
  8. Print a test model and check if the print quality has improved. If not, you may need to adjust the D rings again or check for other issues with your printer.

Adjusting the D rings on a 3D printer bed that is loose can help you improve your print quality and prevent your bed from wobbling or shifting during printing. It is a simple and quick fix that you can do yourself with some basic tools. However, if you are not comfortable with tinkering with your printer, you may want to consult a professional or contact your printer manufacturer for assistance.

If you are using the same settings on your 3D printer, but all of a sudden your prints start failing, you might be wondering what is going on. Here are some possible causes and solutions to troubleshoot your 3D printing problems.

  • Check the filament. Sometimes the filament can get tangled, kinked, or broken, which can affect the quality of your prints. Make sure the filament is feeding smoothly and evenly into the extruder. If the filament is brittle or has moisture in it, you might need to replace it or dry it out.
  • Check the nozzle. The nozzle is the part that melts and deposits the filament onto the print bed. If the nozzle is clogged, dirty, or damaged, it can cause under-extrusion, blobs, stringing, or other issues. You can try to clean the nozzle with a needle or a wire brush, or replace it if it is worn out.
  • Check the bed leveling. The bed leveling is the process of adjusting the distance between the nozzle and the print bed. If the bed is not level, it can cause the first layer to be uneven, which can affect the adhesion and accuracy of your prints. You can use a piece of paper or a feeler gauge to check the gap between the nozzle and the bed at different points, and adjust the screws or knobs accordingly.
  • Check the temperature. The temperature is one of the most important factors that affect the quality of your prints. If the temperature is too high or too low, it can cause warping, cracking, stringing, or other issues. You can use a thermometer or a thermal camera to check the temperature of the nozzle and the bed, and adjust them according to the recommended settings for your filament type and model.
  • Check the speed. The speed is another factor that affects the quality of your prints. If the speed is too fast or too slow, it can cause over-extrusion, under-extrusion, ringing, or other issues. You can use a stopwatch or a software to check the speed of your printer, and adjust it according to the complexity and size of your model.

My daughter recently asked me to print something for her in two entirely different types of filaments. To do so would require me to change almost all of the settings partway through the printing process. Here is how I did it with the post processing script plugin for Cura. This plugin allows you to add custom g-code commands at specific layers or heights of your print, which can override the default settings of your slicer.

To use the post processing script plugin, you need to have Cura installed on your computer. You can download it from https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura. Once you have Cura open, load your model and slice it as usual. Then, go to the Extensions menu and select Post Processing > Modify G-Code. This will open a new window where you can add, edit, or delete scripts.

To add a new script, click on the Add a script button and choose one from the list. There are many scripts available, such as ChangeAtZ, PauseAtHeight, FilamentChange, etc. For this example, I will use the ChangeAtZ script, which lets you change any parameter at a given layer or height. After selecting the script, you will see a list of options that you can modify. For example, you can choose whether to trigger the script by layer or by height, what parameter to change, and what value to set it to. You can also add a comment to remind yourself what the script does.

For example, let’s say I want to change the temperature from 200°C to 220°C at layer 50 of my print. I would select the ChangeAtZ script and set the following options:

  • Trigger: Layer No.
  • Layer No.: 50
  • Behavior: Keep value
  • Change extruder 1 temp: True
  • Extruder 1 temp: 220
  • Comment: Increase temperature

This will insert a custom g-code command at layer 50 that will set the temperature of extruder 1 to 220°C and keep it until the end of the print. You can add multiple scripts if you want to change more than one parameter or change them multiple times during the print. You can also edit or delete scripts by clicking on the pencil or trash icons next to them.

Once you are done with adding scripts, click on Close and save your g-code file as usual. Then, transfer it to your printer and start printing. You should see your parameter changes take effect at the specified layers or heights of your print.

The post processing script plugin for Cura is a powerful tool that can help you fine-tune your prints and achieve better results. You can use it to experiment with different settings and see how they affect your print quality, speed, or appearance. You can also use it to create some interesting effects, such as changing colors, pausing for inserts, or adding text or logos. The possibilities are endless!

I love that 3d printing allows you to create physical objects from digital models. Despite what I thought when I got my first 3d printer, it is not as simple as pressing a button and watching your design come to life. There are many factors that affect the quality and outcome of your 3D prints, and one of the most important ones is the configuration settings.

Configuration settings are the parameters that control how your 3D printer operates, such as the temperature, speed, layer height, infill, retraction, and more. These settings can vary depending on the type of printer, filament, model, and desired result. They can also interact with each other in complex ways, so changing one setting can affect another.

One of the most common problems that 3D printing enthusiasts face is poor bed adhesion. This means that the first layer of your print does not stick to the print bed, causing it to warp, curl, or detach. This can ruin your entire print and waste time and material. There are many possible causes for poor bed adhesion, such as incorrect bed temperature, nozzle height, leveling, or surface preparation. However, even if you have all these factors right, you may still encounter this issue if your other configuration settings are not optimal.

For example, if your print speed is too high, your extruder may not be able to keep up with the demand and under-extrude filament. This can result in gaps or thin spots in your first layer, which can compromise its adhesion. Similarly, if your retraction settings are too aggressive, you may experience oozing or stringing, which can interfere with the smoothness and consistency of your first layer. If your layer height is too large or your infill is too sparse, you may not have enough material to form a solid base for your print.

It is essential to understand how all of your configuration settings work together and how they affect the quality of your 3D prints. You should always test and calibrate your printer before starting a new project, and adjust your settings according to the specific requirements of your model and filament. You should also use slicing software that allows you to preview and fine-tune your settings before sending them to your printer. By doing so, you can avoid common pitfalls and achieve successful 3D prints every time.

My situation:

I wasn’t necessarily looking for a nozzle upgrade. I had it on my Amazon wishlist as one of those “something I’ll purchase one day” items. When my birthday came around my family purchased it. In my case, I’m evaluating overall performance rather than trying to push the limits of speed on my machine or trying to print with some exotic filament.

First impression:

Compared to the hotend that came with my machine and the hotends that I’ve replaced it with over the years, the Spider is very heavy. A pet peeve of mine is that everything lines up. One thing that I don’t like about most hotends that I’ve used in the past is that their orientation is based on how tight you put everything together because it’s based on the rotation of the heat break. The Spider overcomes this with a couple of screws that determine the orientation. Overall, it seems to be a very well built hotend.

Installation:

Thinking it’s a drop in replacement for my current hotend, I remove my hotend and put the Spider on my printer. Then I notice that the JST connectors are incorrect for my machine, so I swap that all out so that I can provide power to it. Once I get the electronics set up I notice that the nozzle is an inch or so higher than my other hotend was. Rookie mistake. I remove the Spider, put my old hotend back on, and 3d print a spacer to set the nozzle at the right height. I need some longer screws too.

Printing:

Once I get the Spider set up at the right height, I did a PID tune and started printing. I’ve been printing with it for about a week now and I have to say that I like it so far. The prints come out extremely clean and just have a nice uniform look to them.

The world of 3D printing has revolutionized manufacturing and design processes across industries. One key factor that significantly impacts the quality and reliability of 3D printed objects is thermal stability. I want to explore why thermal stability holds immense importance in the realm of 3D printing.

3D printing, also known as additive manufacturing, is a process that involves creating three-dimensional objects by layering materials based on a digital design. The success of 3D printing lies in achieving precise control over various parameters, including temperature. Thermal stability, the ability of a system to maintain a consistent temperature, plays a crucial role in ensuring the accuracy, structural integrity, and overall quality of the final printed objects.

Different 3D printing technologies utilize various materials such as thermoplastics, metals, resins, and composites. Each material has specific thermal characteristics that must be carefully managed during the printing process. Achieving thermal stability allows for precise control over the material’s melting point, viscosity, shrinkage, and curing reactions, ensuring optimal results.

Thermal stability is paramount in preventing warping and deformation in 3D printed objects. When materials cool too rapidly or unevenly, they can contract unevenly, leading to warping, curling, or cracking. Maintaining a stable and controlled printing environment, including the temperature of the build plate and the surrounding atmosphere, helps mitigate these issues and ensures dimensional accuracy.

Thermal stability directly affects the print quality and resolution of 3D printed objects. Variations in temperature can cause inconsistent material flow, resulting in uneven layer deposition, surface imperfections, or even failed prints. A stable and controlled temperature environment allows for consistent material flow, precise layering, and better adhesion between layers, ultimately leading to higher print quality and resolution.

In 3D printing, optimizing print speed is essential to increase efficiency and reduce production time. However, pushing the limits of print speed without considering thermal stability can lead to compromised print quality. Maintaining the appropriate temperature range for the material being used ensures that it flows smoothly and solidifies properly, enabling faster and more efficient printing without sacrificing quality.

Support structures play a vital role in 3D printing, especially when printing complex geometries or objects with overhangs. Thermal stability aids in the controlled and gradual cooling of the printed layers, allowing for the proper formation and removal of support structures. This process helps maintain the structural integrity of the printed object while minimizing the need for excessive supports or post-processing.

What makes a good 3D printer extruder?

A 3D printer extruder is the part of the printer that pushes the filament through a nozzle and deposits it on the build plate. The extruder is responsible for the quality and accuracy of the printed object, as well as the speed and reliability of the printing process. Therefore, choosing a good 3D printer extruder is essential for getting the best results from your 3D printing projects.

There are many factors that affect the performance of a 3D printer extruder, such as:

  • The type of filament: Different filaments have different properties, such as melting temperature, viscosity, flexibility, and strength. The extruder should be compatible with the filament you want to use, and be able to handle its characteristics without clogging, jamming, or breaking.
  • The design of the extruder: There are two main types of extruders: direct drive and Bowden. A direct drive extruder has the motor mounted directly on the nozzle, which reduces the distance and friction between the filament and the nozzle. This allows for more precise and consistent extrusion, especially with flexible or brittle filaments. However, a direct drive extruder also adds more weight and inertia to the print head, which can affect the speed and accuracy of the printer. A Bowden extruder has the motor mounted away from the nozzle, and uses a tube to guide the filament to the nozzle. This reduces the weight and inertia of the print head, which enables faster and smoother printing. However, a Bowden extruder also introduces more friction and slack in the filament path, which can cause under-extrusion, over-extrusion, or stringing, especially with flexible or soft filaments.
  • The quality of the components: The components of the extruder, such as the motor, the gears, the bearings, the nozzle, and the heat sink, should be made of durable and high-quality materials that can withstand high temperatures, pressures, and wear. The components should also be well-aligned and calibrated to ensure smooth and accurate extrusion.
  • The ease of use and maintenance: The extruder should be easy to install, adjust, and clean. It should also have features that make it more convenient and user-friendly, such as a filament sensor, a cooling fan, a dual extruder option, or a quick-release mechanism.

Maybe you’re just curious, maybe you’re looking to upgrade your extruder, or maybe you’re having random issues with your current extruder. In any case, I hope that these things help you.