Tag: configuration

Z offset is a term that refers to the distance between the nozzle of your 3D printer and the print bed. It is an important parameter that affects the quality and adhesion of your prints. If the Z offset is too high, the nozzle will be too far from the bed and the first layer will not stick well. If the Z offset is too low, the nozzle will be too close to the bed and may scratch it or cause extrusion problems.

The first step is to measure your current Z offset. You can do this by printing a test pattern, such as a single-layer square or circle, and observing how it looks on the bed. Ideally, you want the first layer to be slightly squished and have a smooth surface. If the first layer is too thin or has gaps, your Z offset is too high. If the first layer is too thick or has blobs, your Z offset is too low.

To adjust your Z offset, you need to access your printer’s firmware settings. Depending on your printer model and software, you may have different ways to do this. Some printers have a menu option that allows you to change the Z offset directly. Others require you to use a terminal program or a G-code command to modify the Z offset value. You can find more information about your specific printer in its manual or online forums.

Once you have access to your Z offset setting, you can increase or decrease it by small increments, such as 0.01 mm or 0.05 mm. The direction of the adjustment depends on whether you need to raise or lower your nozzle. For example, if your Z offset is too high, you need to lower your nozzle by decreasing the Z offset value. If your Z offset is too low, you need to raise your nozzle by increasing the Z offset value.

After each adjustment, you should print another test pattern and check the first layer quality. Repeat this process until you find the optimal Z offset for your printer and filament. You may need to fine-tune your Z offset for different materials or environmental conditions, as they can affect the extrusion and adhesion of your prints.

Sometimes we don’t have the luxury of buying a new 3d printer and have to use what we have. My first choice for printing miniature figurines is my SLA printer. But, before I got it I did use my FDM printer for that same purpose. It took a bit of tuning to get everything just right. In the end, you still don’t get details as fine as on a resin printer, but for a couple of 8 and 10 year old boys who just want to goof off with them, the detail is just fine. Here is how I got my FDM printer tuned to make decent miniature prints.

Use a 0.25 mm nozzle for printing miniatures. This will allow you to print finer features and reduce the visible layer lines. However, a smaller nozzle also means a higher risk of clogging and longer print times. Therefore, you need to buy good quality filament that won’t clog and has consistent diameter and color.

Do your PID tuning. This is a process that calibrates the temperature control of your hotend and bed, ensuring that they maintain a stable and accurate temperature throughout the print. PID tuning can improve the quality and reliability of your prints, as well as prevent thermal runaway and overheating issues.

Make sure that your esteps are calibrated. Esteps are the number of steps your extruder motor takes to push a certain amount of filament through the nozzle. A little tiny nozzle is much more likely to get clogged, so you want to make sure you aren’t feeding it too much filament. To calibrate your esteps, you need to measure how much filament is extruded when you command a certain length, and adjust the estep value accordingly.

If you use Klipper firmware like I do, you need to make sure that you calibrate your rotation distance. This is the distance that the print head moves when the extruder motor rotates one full turn. I think other firmware calls it your steps per mm. Whatever it’s called, make sure that if you print something that’s supposed to be 1 inch, that it’s an inch.

Finally, you need to level your bed at your printing temperature. Then do a mesh bed level. This will compensate for any unevenness or warping of your bed surface, ensuring that your nozzle is at the right distance from the bed at every point. A good bed level is essential for good adhesion and avoiding elephant foot or warping issues.

These are some of the things that I do to print miniatures with my FDM printer. Of course, there are other factors that affect the quality of your prints, such as slicer settings, orientation, supports, infill, post-processing, etc. But I hope this blog post gave you some useful information and inspiration for printing miniatures with FDM.

Has your nozzle ever dragged across the top surface of your 3d printed part and given you those little valleys? This is often due to a simple but common problem: a poorly leveled bed.

By leveling your bed correctly, you will not only save time and money on wasted filament and failed prints, but also improve the quality and accuracy of your prints. You will be able to print smoother surfaces, sharper details, and more complex shapes without any hassle.

To level your bed properly, you will need a sheet of paper, a ruler, and a screwdriver. Follow these simple steps to get started:

  • Turn on your 3D printer and heat up the bed and the nozzle to the temperature you normally use for printing.
  • Place the sheet of paper on one corner of the bed and move the nozzle over it.
  • Adjust the height of the bed using the screwdriver until you feel a slight resistance when you slide the paper under the nozzle. If your bed is leveled with thumbscrews, obviously use those instead.
  • Repeat this process for the other three corners of the bed, making sure that the paper has the same resistance at each point.
  • Check the levelness of the bed by moving the nozzle across the entire surface and sliding the paper under it. If you feel any difference in resistance, adjust the corresponding corner until it is even.
  • Measure the distance between the nozzle and the bed using the ruler. It should be around 0.1 mm for most printers and filaments. If it is too high or too low, adjust the height of the entire bed using the screws on the sides or front of the printer.
  • Once you have leveled your bed properly, you are ready to print. Enjoy your flawless prints!

Have you ever experienced a thermal runaway error on your 3D printer? If you have, you know how frustrating and scary it can be. Thermal runaway is a condition where the temperature of the hotend or the heated bed rises uncontrollably, potentially causing damage to the printer or even starting a fire. I will explain what causes thermal runaway, how to prevent it, and what to do if it happens.

The main cause of thermal runaway is a malfunction in the temperature sensor or the heater. The temperature sensor is a device that measures the temperature of the hotend or the heated bed and sends a signal to the controller board. The controller board then adjusts the power to the heater to maintain the desired temperature. If the temperature sensor fails or becomes loose, it may send a wrong signal to the controller board, causing it to overheat or underheat the heater. Similarly, if the heater fails or becomes loose, it may draw too much or too little power, causing it to overheat or underheat.

To prevent thermal runaway, you should always check your printer for any signs of damage or wear before each print. Make sure that the temperature sensor and the heater are securely attached and that the wires are not frayed or broken. You should also enable thermal runaway protection in your firmware if your printer supports it. Thermal runaway protection is a feature that monitors the temperature of the hotend and the heated bed and shuts off the power if it detects an abnormal change. It’s not always enabled by default, so make sure it is turned on before you start printing.

If you encounter a thermal runaway error during a print, you should immediately turn off your printer and unplug it from the power source. Do not touch any part of the printer until it cools down completely. Then, inspect your printer for any damage or loose connections and fix them if possible. You may need to replace the temperature sensor or the heater if they are faulty. You should also update your firmware to the latest version and enable thermal runaway protection if you haven’t done so already.

Getting the print to stick to the bed is a common challenge for 3D printer users. If the print does not adhere well, it can warp, curl, or detach during printing. To avoid this, many users apply some adhesive to the bed before printing. But what kind of adhesive should you use? And how do you apply it correctly? Here are some of the most popular adhesives for 3D printing and their pros and cons.

A glue stick is a cheap and easy option that works for most filaments and beds. You just need to apply a thin layer of glue stick to the bed in a circular motion. Glue stick provides good adhesion and can be removed with water or alcohol. However, glue stick can leave a residue on the print, affect its appearance or quality, and dry out over time.

Hairspray is a spray-on product that contains polymers that bond to the bed and the filament when heated. Hairspray works for PLA and ABS filaments and can be used on glass, metal, or plastic beds. You just need to spray a thin and even layer of hairspray on the bed before heating it up. Hairspray provides strong adhesion and can smooth out minor imperfections on the bed. However, hairspray can be messy, sticky, clog the nozzle or fan of your printer, and be difficult to remove from the bed and the print.

Painter’s tape is a type of masking tape that has a low-tack adhesive that does not leave any residue. Painter’s tape works for PLA and PETG filaments and can be used on glass, metal, or plastic beds. You just need to cut strips of tape and apply them to the bed in parallel lines, overlapping them slightly. Painter’s tape provides decent adhesion and can be removed by peeling it off. However, painter’s tape can wear out quickly, need to be replaced often, and affect the texture and appearance of the bottom layer of your print.

These are some of the most popular adhesives for 3D printing, but there are others. You may also want to try Kapton tape, PEI sheet, Magigoo, BuildTak, or 3DLac. The best adhesive for you may depend on your preference, filament type, bed material, printer settings, and budget. You may also want to experiment with different adhesives and techniques to find what works best for you. The key is to ensure that your print sticks well without causing any damage or difficulty in removal.

If you are new to 3D printing, you might encounter some problems with your prints that can be frustrating and confusing. One of the most common issues is a clogged nozzle, which can affect the quality and accuracy of your prints. In this blog post, I will explain how to diagnose a clogged nozzle and what symptoms to look for on your 3D printed part.

A clogged nozzle is when the filament gets stuck or blocked inside the nozzle, preventing it from extruding properly. This can happen for various reasons, such as using low-quality filament, printing at the wrong temperature, or having dust or debris in the nozzle.

A clogged nozzle can cause several problems with your prints, such as under-extrusion, stringing, blobs, gaps, or layer shifts. These symptoms can ruin your print and waste your time and filament. It is important to diagnose a clogged nozzle as soon as possible and fix it before it gets worse.

The good news is that diagnosing a clogged nozzle is not very difficult. You just need to pay attention to some signs that indicate that something is wrong with your nozzle. Here are some of the most common symptoms of a clogged nozzle:

  • Under-extrusion: This is when the nozzle does not extrude enough filament to fill the gaps between the layers or the perimeters. This results in thin or missing walls, weak infill, or holes in the print.
  • Stringing: This is when the nozzle oozes filament during travel moves, creating thin strings or hairs between different parts of the print. This can make your print look messy and require post-processing to remove them.
  • Blobs: This is when the nozzle extrudes too much filament at certain points, creating bumps or lumps on the surface of the print. This can affect the smoothness and accuracy of your print and make it look unprofessional.
  • Gaps: This is when the nozzle skips or misses some parts of the print, leaving empty spaces or holes in the model. This can compromise the integrity and functionality of your print and make it look incomplete.
  • Layer shifts: This is when the nozzle moves out of alignment during printing, causing the layers to shift or misalign. This can distort the shape and dimensions of your print and make it unusable.

If you notice any of these symptoms on your 3D printed part, check your nozzle for clogging and either fix or replace the nozzle.

If you’re a 3D printing enthusiast, you know that one of the most important decisions you have to make before printing is how to orient your model on the build plate. The orientation can affect the print quality, the functionality, and the amount of post-processing of your final product. I want to share some best practices that I’ve learned the hard way for determining the optimal orientation for your 3D prints.

First of all, you have to consider the print quality of your final product. This means looking at factors such as overhangs, supports, layer lines, and surface finish. Generally, you want to avoid printing overhangs that are more than 45 degrees from the vertical axis, as they can cause sagging and poor quality. You also want to minimize the use of supports, as they can leave marks and require extra work to remove. You can do this by orienting your model so that the most complex or detailed features are facing up or sideways. Additionally, you want to consider how the layer lines will affect the appearance and strength of your print. You can reduce the visibility of layer lines by orienting your model so that they follow the contours or curves of your design. You can also increase the strength of your print by aligning the layer lines with the direction of stress or load.

Secondly, you have to consider the intended use of your final product. This means thinking about how your print will function in its environment and what kind of forces or stresses it will encounter. For example, if you’re printing a hook or a bracket that will hold some weight, you want to orient it so that the layer lines are perpendicular to the direction of force. This way, you can avoid delamination or cracking along the layer lines. On the other hand, if you’re printing a decorative object that will not be subjected to much stress, you can orient it for aesthetic purposes and choose the angle that best showcases your design.

Thirdly, you have to consider the amount of post-processing that will be required for your final product. This means looking at how much time and effort you’re willing to spend on sanding, smoothing, painting, or gluing your print. Generally, you want to reduce the amount of post-processing by choosing an orientation that minimizes the need for supports, improves the surface quality, and reduces the number of parts or seams. You can also use some tricks such as using a raft or a brim to improve adhesion and prevent warping, using a higher infill percentage or wall thickness to increase strength and durability, and using a lower layer height or a finer nozzle to improve resolution and detail.

As you can see, there is no one-size-fits-all answer for determining the best orientation for your 3D prints. You have to weigh the pros and cons of each option and decide what matters most for your project. However, by following these best practices, you can improve your chances of getting a successful and satisfying print every time. Happy printing!

Coasting and wipe distance are two settings that can affect the quality of your 3D prints.

Coasting is a setting that tells the printer to stop extruding filament a little bit before the end of a perimeter or an infill line. This helps to reduce the pressure in the nozzle and prevent oozing or stringing. Coasting can also reduce the amount of blobs or zits that appear on the surface of the print. However, coasting can also cause gaps or under-extrusion in some cases, especially if the coasting distance is too large or if the filament is not viscous enough.

Wipe distance is a setting that tells the printer to move the nozzle along the perimeter or the infill line after it stops extruding filament. This helps to smooth out the end of the extrusion and reduce any excess filament that may ooze out of the nozzle. Wipe distance can also improve the surface quality of the print by hiding any imperfections or seams. However, wipe distance can also cause over-extrusion or dragging in some cases, especially if the wipe distance is too large or if the nozzle temperature is too high.

Both coasting and wipe distance are useful settings that can help you achieve better 3D prints. However, they are not mutually exclusive and they may interact with each other in different ways depending on your printer, filament, and model. Therefore, it is important to experiment with different values and find the optimal balance for your specific situation. You can use a test model like this one (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363023) to see how coasting and wipe distance affect your prints and adjust them accordingly.

Level first, then mesh, then Z offset. Or do I set the Z offset first, then level then mesh? Or is it…

I always start with mechanical functions, then move to software compensation. No sense in trying to set a Z offset on a bed that’s tilted 20 degrees. Where would the offset even apply to? The highest point? The lowest point? I’m not sure.

First, set your mechanical level. This is done by turning the screws and making sure that your bed is mechanically aligned to your nozzle. Next, set your mesh to compensate for any variance in the bed flatness. I don’t use Z offset, I haven’t had to. But if you do, this is the point that you should implement it. The machine has a sense of where the bed is so it is able to apply an accurate Z offset.

If you spend any time reading through 3d printer help forums, it won’t be long before you see someone post about a problem that they are experiencing, to which someone else replies “you need to level your bed better.” But how good is good enough?

When it comes to 3d printer beds, I typically run into two variations:

  • 5 point bed level. This is a bed configuration that comes standard with many different firmware packages. It’s simple to set up and will give you pretty good results. The downside is that it doesn’t provide any flexibility in case your bed is warped in between the points. In doing some testing on this version, it seems like I started to have problems if my bed variance exceeded 0.05mm. Increasing my first layer height somewhat mitigated the problem, but didn’t solve it completely.
  • Mesh bed level. For this experiment, I used a 25 point (5×5 grid) mesh bed level. I allowed my bed variance to get close to twice my layer height, so for a 0.1mm layer height my bed variance was nearly 0.2mm. Then I set up my mesh bed level. I was able to see a slight difference in print quality near the base as the bed variance was increased, but it wasn’t significant. However, the differences that I observed were pretty minor and I believe that, in most cases, the resulting print would be considered “fit for use.”

Here is my recommendation. Get your bed as physically flat as you possibly can. See if you can get it to 0.05mm flatness. In most cases, this is possible as long as you have decent springs holding the bed up. Then run a mesh bed level to compensate for the variance that still exists. For most materials, I’m able to run prints without any hairspray, glue, tape, or anything else to hold the print onto the bed by following this methodology.