Tag: filament

Here’s a rundown of the most commonly used 3D printer filaments and the considerations you should keep in mind.

PLA (Polylactic Acid)

Environmental Impact: PLA is a biodegradable thermoplastic derived from renewable resources like corn starch or sugarcane, making it one of the more environmentally friendly options. However, its biodegradation process requires industrial composting conditions to break down efficiently.

Safety and Medical Concerns: PLA is generally considered safe for home use, emitting a relatively low level of ultrafine particles (UFPs) and volatile organic compounds (VOCs) during printing. It’s also used in medical applications, such as in biodegradable medical implants, thanks to its biocompatibility.

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)

Environmental Impact: ABS is a petroleum-based plastic that is not biodegradable, posing more significant environmental concerns compared to PLA. Proper ventilation is crucial due to the fumes produced during printing.

Safety and Medical Concerns: Printing with ABS releases styrene, a possible human carcinogen, emphasizing the need for good ventilation to minimize exposure. Its durability makes it suitable for creating items that require strength and heat resistance, but not typically used in medical applications due to its potential health risks.

PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol)

Environmental Impact: PETG is considered more environmentally friendly than ABS but less so than PLA. It’s recyclable under code 1, though recycling facilities may vary in acceptance.

Safety and Medical Concerns: PETG combines ease of use with reduced emission of harmful fumes, making it safer for home environments. It’s also known for its chemical resistance and strength, often used in food containers and medical devices.

TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane)

Environmental Impact: TPU’s environmental impact is similar to that of other petroleum-based plastics, with concerns around non-biodegradability. Recycling options are limited.

Safety and Medical Concerns: TPU is valued for its flexibility and durability. While it emits fewer toxic fumes compared to ABS, proper ventilation is still recommended. Its elasticity and resistance to oils and greases make it suitable for medical devices and wearable technology.

Specialty Filaments (Wood, Metal, Carbon Fiber Infused)

Environmental Impact: The environmental impact varies significantly with the base material and the additives used. Generally, these filaments combine a PLA base with other materials, potentially affecting biodegradability and recycling options.

Safety and Medical Concerns: Specialty filaments can introduce additional safety considerations, such as increased nozzle wear or the need for specific printing conditions. The particles released during printing can also vary, necessitating research and precautions based on the specific filament type.

PLA (Polylactic Acid) is a popular material used in 3D printing. There are several types of PLA available, including Standard PLA and PLA Professional (or PLA+). Each type has its own set of characteristics, making them suitable for different applications. Here are some advantages of PLA Professional compared to Standard PLA:

  1. Improved Mechanical Properties: PLA Professional generally has better mechanical properties than standard PLA. This includes higher tensile strength, impact resistance, and durability. These improvements make PLA Professional more suitable for functional parts that need to withstand more stress.
  2. Better Thermal Resistance: PLA Professional can withstand higher temperatures compared to standard PLA before it starts to deform. This makes it more suitable for applications where the printed parts might be exposed to higher temperatures.
  3. Enhanced Print Quality: PLA Professional often provides a smoother finish with more consistent color and fewer printing defects like stringing or warping. This results in aesthetically pleasing prints with a more professional look.
  4. Less Brittle: Standard PLA is known for being somewhat brittle, which can be a drawback for certain applications. PLA Professional is typically less brittle, which reduces the risk of the print breaking or cracking under stress.
  5. Better Layer Adhesion: The improved formulation of PLA Professional can lead to better layer adhesion, resulting in stronger prints. This is crucial for large prints or prints with thin walls.
  6. Wide Range of Applications: Due to its improved properties, PLA Professional can be used for a wider range of applications, including those that require more durable and resilient parts.
  7. Ease of Printing: Like standard PLA, PLA Professional is easy to print with and doesn’t require a heated bed or closed printing chamber, making it accessible for hobbyists and professionals alike.
  8. Environmental Impact: Both types of PLA are biodegradable under industrial composting conditions. However, PLA Professional might have a slightly different environmental impact due to its additives and manufacturing process.

It’s important to note that the exact properties of PLA Professional can vary between manufacturers. Therefore, it’s advisable to check the specific product details or data sheets provided by the manufacturer for the most accurate information.

Silk filament, known for its glossy and smooth finish, can add a unique aesthetic to 3D printed objects. However, many users find silk filament somewhat challenging to work with. This post explores the reasons behind these challenges and provides tips on how to successfully print with silk filament.

Understanding Silk Filament:
Silk filament, typically a type of PLA (Polylactic Acid) with added materials for a shiny finish, has distinct properties that set it apart from standard PLA. Its shimmering appearance is highly desired, but it comes with its own set of printing challenges.

Key Challenges of Silk Filament:

Stringing and Oozing:

  • Silk filament often exhibits excessive stringing and oozing. This is due to its lower viscosity at printing temperatures, leading to more fluid flow and drooping.

Temperature Sensitivity:

  • Achieving the perfect extrusion temperature can be tricky. Too hot, and the filament becomes too runny; too cool, and it may not adhere properly.

Print Speed:

  • Silk filament generally requires slower print speeds. High-speed printing can lead to poor layer adhesion and diminished print quality.

Layer Adhesion:

  • The smooth nature of silk filament can sometimes lead to weaker layer bonding, impacting the structural integrity of the print.

Tips for Successful Silk Filament Printing:

Optimize Temperature Settings:

  • Conduct test prints to find the optimal temperature settings for your specific printer and silk filament brand.

Lower Printing Speed:

  • Reduce the print speed to allow better precision and layer adhesion.

Adjust Retraction Settings:

  • Fine-tuning the retraction settings can help reduce stringing and oozing.

Use a Cooling Fan:

  • Proper cooling is essential. Use the printer’s cooling fan to solidify the filament quickly after extrusion.

Level the Bed Accurately:

  • A well-leveled bed ensures the first layer adheres well, which is crucial for silk filament.

Increase Layer Height:

  • A slightly higher layer height can improve layer bonding and overall print strength.

Consider Post-Processing:

  • Light sanding or a heat gun can help remove strings and improve the finish.


While silk filament can be more challenging to work with compared to standard filaments, understanding its properties and adjusting your printing approach can lead to spectacular results. Patience and experimentation are key to mastering silk filament printing.


In the intricate world of 3D printing, understanding the behavior of different filaments when heated is crucial. One key aspect is thermal expansion – the tendency of filament materials to expand upon heating. This post delves into how filament expansion can affect your prints and ways to mitigate these effects for optimal results.

Understanding Filament Expansion:

Why Filaments Expand:

  • Most materials, including those used for 3D printing filaments, expand when heated. This is due to the increased movement of molecules at higher temperatures.

Variation Among Filament Types:

  • Different filament materials exhibit varying degrees of thermal expansion. For example, ABS expands more than PLA, which can lead to different printing challenges.

Problems Caused by Filament Expansion:

Dimensional Inaccuracies:

  • Excessive expansion can lead to parts being larger than intended, causing issues with fit and assembly in multi-part projects.

Warping and Layer Separation:

  • Uneven expansion can cause parts of the print to lift off the bed (warping) or layers to separate, especially in large prints.

Nozzle Clogs:

  • In some cases, expansion can lead to excessive filament build-up around the nozzle, potentially causing clogs.

Strategies to Mitigate Expansion Issues:

Temperature Control:

  • Fine-tuning the printing temperature can minimize expansion. Lower temperatures reduce expansion but must be balanced against proper filament melting.

Heated Bed Usage:

  • A heated bed maintains a consistent temperature at the base of the print, reducing warping caused by uneven cooling and contraction.

Enclosure for Temperature Management:

  • Using an enclosure can help maintain a stable temperature around the print, minimizing rapid temperature changes that contribute to expansion issues.

Filament Selection:

  • Choose filaments with lower thermal expansion coefficients for projects where dimensional accuracy is critical.

Printing Speed Adjustments:

  • Slower printing speeds can allow for more uniform cooling and reduce the effects of expansion.

Layer Height and Wall Thickness:

  • Adjusting layer height and wall thickness can also help manage the effects of expansion.

Calibration and Testing:

  • Regularly calibrating your printer and conducting test prints can help you understand how different filaments behave on your machine.


Filament expansion when heated is a natural phenomenon in 3D printing that can lead to several issues if not properly managed. By understanding the properties of your filament and adjusting your printing process accordingly, you can significantly reduce the impacts of thermal expansion and ensure higher-quality prints.

Struggling with a clogged 3D printer nozzle? Our quick guide will help you clear it out and get back to printing in no time.

Understanding Clogs:
Clogs happen due to incorrect printing temperatures, low-quality filament, or material buildup. Knowing the cause can help prevent future clogs.

Step-by-Step Guide:

Preparation:

    • Turn off and unplug your printer.
    • Gather needle-nose pliers, a cleaning needle, and a wrench.

    Initial Cleaning:

      • Remove the filament and heat the nozzle to the filament’s melting point.

      Manual Unclogging:

      • Gently use the cleaning needle to dislodge the clog.

      Advanced Techniques:

      • ‘Cold Pull’ Method: Use nylon filament to pull out the clog.
      • Chemical Solvents: Use cautiously for plastic clogs.

      Reassembly and Testing:

      • Put the nozzle back together and conduct a test print.

      Preventive Measures:

      • Opt for high-quality filament.
      • Regularly clean the nozzle.
      • Monitor printing temperatures.


      Tackling a nozzle clog is manageable with the right approach. Regular maintenance is key to preventing clogs. Get back to smooth printing with these tips!

      3D printing enthusiasts know that filament quality is paramount. But how can you tell if your filament has become damp? Here are the tell-tale signs:

      1. Brittleness: When filament absorbs moisture, it can become brittle and snap easily.
      2. Stringing: Moisture in the filament turns to steam during printing, causing fine strings of plastic between printed parts.
      3. Popping or Hissing Sounds: As the filament passes through the hot end, moisture evaporates, creating audible pops.
      4. Dull Finish: Instead of a smooth, shiny surface, your prints may have a rough, matte finish.
      5. Poor Adhesion: Damp filament may not stick well to the bed, leading to warping or misshapen prints.

      And the problems aren’t just cosmetic:

      • Clogged Nozzles: The steam can cause bubbles that solidify inside the nozzle, leading to blockages.
      • Weak Prints: Moisture can degrade the integrity of the plastic, resulting in weaker structural strength.
      • Reduced Precision: Inconsistent extrusion due to moisture can lead to inaccuracies in the print dimensions.

      To ensure the best printing results, store your filament in a dry, airtight container with desiccants. If your filament does get damp, all is not lost – consider using a filament dryer or oven to carefully remove moisture before printing.

      The speed of the first layer is important because it determines how well the filament sticks to the bed and how smooth the surface of your print will be. However, setting the speed too high can cause some problems that can affect the quality and durability of your print. Today, I will explain what happens if your speed is set too high for the first layer, and how to fix it.

      Some symptoms of a too high speed for the first layer are:

      • Poor adhesion: The filament might not stick well to the bed, resulting in warping, curling, or detachment of the print.
      • Rough surface: The filament might not have enough time to melt and spread evenly on the bed, resulting in a rough and uneven surface.
      • Under-extrusion: The filament might not flow fast enough to keep up with the nozzle movement, resulting in gaps or holes in the print.
      • Overheating: The nozzle might get too hot due to the fast movement, resulting in clogging, stringing, or oozing of the filament.

      Some ways to remedy a too high speed for the first layer are:

      • Lower the speed: The most obvious solution is to lower the speed of the first layer, either by adjusting the settings in your slicer software or by using the knob on your printer. A good rule of thumb is to set the speed to 50% or less of your normal printing speed for the first layer.
      • Increase the temperature: Another way to improve the adhesion and flow of the filament is to increase the temperature of the nozzle and/or the bed. This will help the filament melt faster and stick better to the bed. However, be careful not to set the temperature too high, as this can cause other problems such as burning or warping of the filament.
      • Level the bed: A properly leveled bed is essential for a good first layer. If your bed is too high or too low, it can affect how well the filament sticks to it and how smooth the surface will be. You can use a piece of paper or a feeler gauge to check the distance between the nozzle and the bed at different points, and adjust it accordingly.
      • Calibrate the extruder: Another factor that can affect the speed of the first layer is how much filament is extruded by your printer. If your extruder is under-extruding or over-extruding, it can cause gaps or blobs in your print. You can calibrate your extruder by measuring how much filament is fed by your printer when you command it to extrude a certain length, and adjusting the steps per millimeter (E-steps) value in your firmware or slicer software.

      If you are looking for a way to improve the quality of your top layers in 3D printing, you might want to try using monotonic top layers. Monotonic top layers are a type of pattern that ensures that the extrusion lines are always printed in the same direction, without crossing each other in the same layer.

      This creates a smoother and more consistent surface, as the light reflects off the model in a uniform way. Monotonic top layers can also reduce the amount of material and time needed to print, as they avoid unnecessary travel moves and retractions.

      Monotonic top layers are available in some slicers, such as PrusaSlicer, Orca, and Cura. To enable them, you need to select the monotonic top/bottom order option in the infill settings. You can also choose the direction of the extrusion lines, such as horizontal, vertical, diagonal or aligned with the model.

      Monotonic top layers work best with thin layer heights and low infill densities, as they provide enough support for the top surface without creating gaps or bumps. You can also combine them with other features, such as ironing or adaptive cubic infill, to further enhance the appearance and strength of your top layers.

      Yesterday I wrote about working with TPU.

      This material caused me so many problems in the beginning that I thought it might be worthwhile to talk about it in more detail today.

      One of the pieces that I optimize is the tension put on the filament from my extruder. I use a dual gear extruder rather than an extruder with just a gear on one side. This increases the surface area that is in contact with the filament and allows me to put less of a “bite” on the filament, making it less likely to get deformed.

      Additionally, I optimize the tension screw so that my gears just barely make marks on the filament.

      The underlying issue that I’m trying to solve is that the material is soft. If I place too much pressure on the filament it can flatten out and then it won’t extrude properly or might even cause a clog.

      Along the same lines, I optimize my retraction settings. If you have the option of using a direct drive extruder vs. a bowden extruder, you should do so. If you don’t, that’s ok. It’s not ideal, but we can make it work. With a bowden tube using normal PLA my retraction settings are normally around 6mm and 40mm/s. When I set up with TPU, however, I use 1-2mm retraction and no more than 20mm/s. Additionally, most slicers have a setting that limits the number of retractions in a section of filament. I typically limit the retraction to no more than 3 retractions per 10mm. This is to avoid grinding a flat spot onto the filament from repeated retractions as the part is being printed.

      In my post yesterday I mentioned that I increase my temperature and reduce my speed, but I didn’t mention any specific values. It varies, but I normally like to run TPU or silk PLA that contains TPU at around 210-220 and I run it pretty slow, usually around 20-30 mm/s. These specific settings all require some testing and optimization, but this should give you a good starting point. The general idea is to make sure that the material is melted enough when it gets to the hotend that it won’t cause the filament to bind or bend. Same thing with the speed, if you try to push too much filament through the filament ends up bending and causing clogs.

      Working with flexible filament, such as TPU, is challenging.

      One of the main challenges of working with TPU filament is its high elasticity and low rigidity. This means that TPU filament can stretch and bend easily, which can cause problems with extrusion, retraction, and feeding. It can be similar to trying to push rope. It is advisable to reduce the retraction distance and speed, as well as the print speed, to prevent stringing and oozing.

      Another challenge of working with TPU filament is its sensitivity to temperature and humidity. TPU filament can absorb moisture from the air, which can affect its print quality and performance. Moisture can cause bubbles, cracks, and warping in the printed objects, as well as increase the risk of nozzle clogging. To prevent these problems, it is essential to store TPU filament in a dry and cool place, preferably in a sealed bag with desiccants. Moreover, it is recommended to use a heated bed and an enclosed print chamber to maintain a stable temperature and avoid drafts.

      A third challenge of working with TPU filament is its adhesion to the print surface. TPU filament can stick very well to some surfaces, such as glass or PEI, but not so well to others, such as blue tape or BuildTak. This can result in either poor bed adhesion or difficulty in removing the printed objects. To solve this dilemma, it is helpful to use a thin layer of glue stick or hairspray on the print surface to improve the adhesion. Alternatively, it is possible to use a flexible or magnetic build plate that can be easily detached and bent to release the printed objects.

      One final challenge that I’ve experienced is that some TPU (or filaments with TPU in them) tend to expand when heated up. I normally like to warm up my machine for a few minutes before beginning a print. This allows for any expansion and movement to happen while the machine is sitting idle, rather than while the machine is printing. However, I’ve found that some TPU based filaments will burn and end up leaving burnt pieces in the nozzle, which end up clogging it. For TPU based filaments, I prefer to retract the filament approximately 100mm, then warm up the nozzle, and include a line of code in the beginning of my file that feeds the filament back into the nozzle. For this same reason, I also like to do a cold pull after each part that I print with TPU based filament. I just cut off the last 25mm or so of the filament. I have far fewer issues that way.

      These are some of the challenges of working with TPU filament that I have encountered and how I have overcome them. I hope this information was useful for you. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave them below. Happy printing!