Tag: filament

If you ever go online to 3d printing chat rooms or help forums, you will inevitably have seen someone describe a problem with their 3d print to which someone will reply “your nozzle is too close to the bed.” What does this mean and what should you do about it?

When the nozzle of a 3D printer is too close to the bed, it can cause several issues.

  • The nozzle can scrape against the bed.
  • The nozzle can drag against the extruded filament and end up dislodging your part.
  • The nozzle can drag against the top of the layer and create a very rough first layer.

If you notice any of these issues with your printer or with your print you have a few options.

  • You can adjust the Z-axis offset
  • Relevel your bed
  • Lower your bed (also requires releveling)

I see this question pop up sometimes in help forums and chatrooms. My experience with filament has been “you get what you pay for.” I’m all for lowering operating costs, but do it carefully.

Here are some of the risks you should be aware of:

  • Clogging: Cheap filament can contain foreign particles or impurities that can clog your nozzle or damage your extruder. This can result in poor print quality, failed prints, or even permanent damage to your printer. Clogging can also waste your time and filament as you try to fix the problem or reprint your model.
  • Fumes: Cheap filament can emit toxic fumes or volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that can harm your health or the environment. Some filaments, such as ABS, produce more fumes than others, such as PLA or PETG. Fumes can cause allergic reactions, respiratory irritation, headaches, nausea, or other symptoms. Fumes can also pollute the air and contribute to global warming.
  • Quality: Cheap filament can have inconsistent diameter, color, or strength. This can affect the accuracy, appearance, and durability of your prints. Cheap filament can also have poor adhesion, warping, or brittleness. Quality issues can compromise the functionality and aesthetics of your prints and make them unsuitable for certain applications.

To avoid these risks, you should use high-quality filament from reputable brands that have good reviews and ratings. You should also follow the recommended settings for your printer and filament, such as temperature, speed, and cooling. You should also print in a well-ventilated area or use a filter or enclosure to reduce the exposure to fumes.

If you are using silk PLA, you might have encountered a common problem: the extruder gear grinds a flat spot on your filament when you have retraction enabled. This can cause under-extrusion, clogging, and poor print quality. But if you disable retraction, you might get stringing and oozing. So how can you overcome this dilemma? Here are some tips that might help you.

  • Increase the extruder temperature. Silk PLA usually requires a higher temperature than regular PLA, around 210-230°C. This will reduce the resistance in the hot end and allow the filament to flow more easily.
  • I have also had success with reducing the extruder temperature to the very minimum temperature. When reducing the temperature the flow of PLA is slower, so a slower speed is also required to accommodate the lower temperature. This option allows me to disable retraction altogether.
  • Decrease the retraction distance and speed. Retraction pulls the filament back into the extruder to prevent oozing, but it also puts more stress on the filament. Try reducing the retraction distance to 2-3 mm and the speed to 20-30 mm/s. This will minimize the grinding and still prevent stringing.
  • Calibrate the extruder tension. The extruder tension is the force that the extruder gear applies on the filament to push it through the nozzle. If the tension is too high, it can cause grinding and flattening of the filament. If it is too low, it can cause slipping and under-extrusion. You can adjust the tension by turning a screw or a knob on your extruder. The ideal tension is when you can pull the filament out of the extruder with moderate force, but not too easily or too hard.
  • Use a high-quality filament. Silk PLA is a special type of PLA that has a shiny and smooth surface. However, not all silk PLA filaments are created equal. Some might have inconsistent diameter, impurities, or additives that can affect the print quality and performance. Make sure you buy from a reputable brand and store your filament in a dry and cool place.

I was printing a couple of things for my wife out of PLA+. Then my daughter wanted something printed in a silk PLA that contained some TPU. These are two very different filaments with very different properties. Just swapping filament spools and hitting “Print” would not have been successful. Here are the steps that I took to successfully swap between the two.

Step 1: Clean the nozzle

The first step is to clean the nozzle of your 3D printer to remove any residue of the previous filament. This is especially important when switching from a lower temperature filament (such as PLA) to a higher temperature filament (such as ABS), because the leftover PLA may burn and clog the nozzle when heated to ABS temperatures.

To clean the nozzle, you can use one of the following methods:

  • Cold pull: This method involves heating the nozzle to the melting temperature of the previous filament, then letting it cool down slightly, and then pulling out the filament with a quick motion. This should remove most of the residue from the nozzle. You may need to repeat this process a few times until the filament comes out clean.
  • Nylon cleaning filament: This is a special type of filament that is designed to clean the nozzle by absorbing any impurities. You can load the nylon cleaning filament into your 3D printer and extrude it at a high temperature (around 250°C) until it comes out clean. You can also use the cold pull method with the nylon cleaning filament for better results.
  • Needle or wire: This method involves inserting a thin needle or wire into the nozzle and gently scraping out any debris. You can do this while the nozzle is hot or cold, but be careful not to damage the nozzle or burn yourself.

Step 2: Adjust the temperature

The second step is to adjust the temperature of your 3D printer to match the new filament. Different filaments have different optimal printing temperatures, which depend on various factors such as the brand, color, and quality of the filament. You can usually find the recommended temperature range on the spool label or on the manufacturer’s website.

Step 3: Adjust the bed temperature

The third step is to adjust the bed temperature of your 3D printer to match the new filament. The bed temperature affects how well the first layer of your print adheres to the build platform, which is crucial for preventing warping and curling. Different filaments have different optimal bed temperatures, which also depend on the type of build surface you are using.

Step 4: Adjust the speed and cooling

The fourth step is to adjust the speed and cooling settings of your 3D printer to match the new filament. The speed and cooling affect how fast and how well your filament solidifies after being extruded from the nozzle. Different filaments have different optimal speed and cooling settings, which depend on their viscosity, shrinkage rate, and strength.

TPU is a flexible filament that can produce amazing prints, but it also requires some special settings and adjustments to print well. One of the most important factors is the tension of the extruder, which affects how well the filament is fed into the hotend and how much pressure is applied to it.

The tension knob is a small screw or dial that controls how tight or loose the spring that presses the idler bearing against the filament is. If the tension is too high, the filament can get crushed or deformed by the idler, causing jams, underextrusion, or poor quality prints. If the tension is too low, the filament can slip or skip in the extruder, causing overextrusion, stringing, or blobs.

To adjust the tension knob properly for TPU, you need to find a balance between enough grip and enough flexibility. Here are some steps to follow:

  1. Load the TPU filament into the extruder and preheat the hotend to the recommended temperature for your brand of TPU.
  2. Start with a low tension setting, such as turning the knob counterclockwise until it stops or loosening the screw until it is barely touching the spring.
  3. Print a test cube or a calibration pattern and observe how the filament behaves in the extruder. Look for signs of slipping, skipping, or grinding.
  4. If you notice any of these problems, increase the tension slightly by turning the knob clockwise or tightening the screw a bit. Repeat step 3 until you find a setting that eliminates these issues.
  5. Check the quality of your print and look for signs of overextrusion, underextrusion, stringing, or blobs. Adjust the tension accordingly until you get a smooth and consistent extrusion.
  6. Remember that different brands and colors of TPU may require different tension settings, so you may need to tweak them for each spool you use.

Silk PLA is a type of PLA filament that has been blended with additional polymers to give it a glossy, matte-like look. It is also more flexible than standard PLA, which can affect its printability and performance. Here are some considerations and adjustments you need to make when switching to silk PLA filament that contains TPU, such as silk PLA.

Print Temperature

Silk PLA filaments usually have a similar print temperature range as regular PLA, which is around 180 to 220°C. However, the exact temperature may vary depending on the brand and the amount of polymer added to the blend. You may need to experiment with different temperatures to find the optimal one for your silk PLA filament. A good way to do this is to print a temperature tower and see which layer has the best quality and adhesion.

Print Speed

Silk PLA filaments can be printed at a similar speed as regular PLA, which is around 30 to 80 mm/s. However, you may want to slow down your print speed if you encounter clogging or stringing issues, as silk PLA can be more prone to these problems due to its flexibility and glossiness. You may also want to reduce your retraction distance and speed, as too much retraction can cause jamming or under-extrusion.

Heated Bed Temperature

Silk PLA filaments do not require a heated bed, as they have good adhesion to most surfaces. However, if you have a heated bed, you can use it at a low temperature of around 60 to 80°C to improve the first layer adhesion and prevent warping. You may also want to use a glue stick, hairspray, or blue tape to increase the bed adhesion and make it easier to remove the print.

Cooling Fan

Silk PLA filaments benefit from using a cooling fan, as it helps to improve the layer cooling and prevent sagging or drooping of the overhangs and bridges. You can use your cooling fan at full speed or adjust it according to your print quality and settings. However, you may want to turn off your cooling fan for the first few layers to ensure good bed adhesion.

Post-Processing

Silk PLA filaments produce prints that have a shiny and smooth surface, which makes them ideal for decorative items or models. You may not need any post-processing for your silk PLA prints, as they already look polished and attractive. However, if you want to improve the appearance or durability of your prints, you can use some post-processing methods such as sanding, painting, or coating. You can also use a heat gun or a hair dryer to smooth out any imperfections or stringing on your prints.

Hey, what’s up, fellow 3D printing enthusiasts? Today I want to talk to you about something very important: filament. You know, the stuff that makes your prints come to life. But did you know that not all filament is created equal? In fact, the characteristics of filament can vary significantly, and hence the settings that are used must also be updated. Let me explain.

Filament is made of different materials, such as PLA, ABS, PETG, etc. Each material has its own properties, such as melting point, strength, flexibility, etc. Depending on the material you use, you need to adjust your printer settings accordingly. For example, PLA usually prints well at around 200°C, while ABS needs a higher temperature of around 230°C. If you use the wrong temperature, you might end up with a print that is under-extruded, over-extruded, or warped.

But even within the same material, there can be variations in quality and consistency. For example, some filament brands might have more additives or impurities than others, which can affect the flow and adhesion of the filament. Some filament spools might have more moisture or dust than others, which can cause bubbles or clogs in the nozzle. Some filament colors might require different temperatures than others, due to the pigments used. All these factors can affect the quality of your prints.

So how do you deal with these variations? Well, the best way is to test your filament before you start printing. You can use a calibration cube or a temperature tower to find the optimal settings for your filament. You can also measure the diameter of your filament with a caliper and enter it in your slicer software. This will ensure that you get the right amount of extrusion and avoid under- or over-extrusion.

Another thing you can do is to store your filament properly. You should keep your filament in a dry and cool place, away from sunlight and moisture. You can also use a desiccant or a vacuum sealer to keep your filament dry. This will prevent your filament from absorbing moisture and degrading over time.

You can make sure that you get great results from your filament. Remember, filament is not just a consumable, it’s an essential part of your 3D printing process. So treat it well and it will treat you well too. Happy printing!

The world of 3D printing has revolutionized manufacturing and design processes across industries. One key factor that significantly impacts the quality and reliability of 3D printed objects is thermal stability. I want to explore why thermal stability holds immense importance in the realm of 3D printing.

3D printing, also known as additive manufacturing, is a process that involves creating three-dimensional objects by layering materials based on a digital design. The success of 3D printing lies in achieving precise control over various parameters, including temperature. Thermal stability, the ability of a system to maintain a consistent temperature, plays a crucial role in ensuring the accuracy, structural integrity, and overall quality of the final printed objects.

Different 3D printing technologies utilize various materials such as thermoplastics, metals, resins, and composites. Each material has specific thermal characteristics that must be carefully managed during the printing process. Achieving thermal stability allows for precise control over the material’s melting point, viscosity, shrinkage, and curing reactions, ensuring optimal results.

Thermal stability is paramount in preventing warping and deformation in 3D printed objects. When materials cool too rapidly or unevenly, they can contract unevenly, leading to warping, curling, or cracking. Maintaining a stable and controlled printing environment, including the temperature of the build plate and the surrounding atmosphere, helps mitigate these issues and ensures dimensional accuracy.

Thermal stability directly affects the print quality and resolution of 3D printed objects. Variations in temperature can cause inconsistent material flow, resulting in uneven layer deposition, surface imperfections, or even failed prints. A stable and controlled temperature environment allows for consistent material flow, precise layering, and better adhesion between layers, ultimately leading to higher print quality and resolution.

In 3D printing, optimizing print speed is essential to increase efficiency and reduce production time. However, pushing the limits of print speed without considering thermal stability can lead to compromised print quality. Maintaining the appropriate temperature range for the material being used ensures that it flows smoothly and solidifies properly, enabling faster and more efficient printing without sacrificing quality.

Support structures play a vital role in 3D printing, especially when printing complex geometries or objects with overhangs. Thermal stability aids in the controlled and gradual cooling of the printed layers, allowing for the proper formation and removal of support structures. This process helps maintain the structural integrity of the printed object while minimizing the need for excessive supports or post-processing.

If you are a 3D printing enthusiast, you may have encountered a frustrating problem: your nozzle seems to be clogged and no filament comes out. You try to clean it, replace it, or even upgrade it, but nothing works. What is going on?

The answer may surprise you: your nozzle may not be clogged at all, but rather your temperature may be too low. How can this happen? Let me explain.

When you print with a 3D printer, you need to heat up the filament to a certain temperature so that it can melt and flow through the nozzle. This temperature varies depending on the type of filament you use, but it is usually around 200°C for PLA and 230°C for ABS.

However, if your temperature is too low, the filament may not melt enough to flow smoothly. Instead, it may form a thick and sticky paste that accumulates inside the nozzle and prevents more filament from coming out. This can look like a clog, but it is actually a temperature issue.

How can you tell the difference? There are some signs that can help you diagnose the problem:

  • If your nozzle is clogged, you may hear a clicking sound from the extruder as it tries to push the filament through.
  • If your temperature is too low, you may see the filament curling up or forming blobs around the nozzle as it comes out.
  • If your nozzle is clogged, you may need to use a needle or a wire to clear it out.
  • If your temperature is too low, you may need to increase it by 5-10°C and try again.

To prevent this problem from happening in the future, you should always check the recommended temperature for your filament and make sure your printer is calibrated correctly. You should also avoid printing in cold or drafty environments that can affect the temperature of your nozzle.

I hope this blog post was helpful and informative. Happy printing!

Stringing is a common problem in 3D printing, especially with flexible materials like PETG. It occurs when thin strands of filament ooze from the nozzle as it moves between two points, creating unwanted hairs on your print. Stringing can ruin the appearance and quality of your print, so it’s important to know how to prevent it.

One of the main causes of stringing is wet filament. Filament can absorb moisture from the air over time, which can affect its printing properties. When wet filament is heated in the nozzle, it can create steam that pushes out excess filament, resulting in stringing. Wet filament can also cause popping noises, bubbles, and poor layer adhesion.

Another common cause of stringing is retraction settings. Retraction is a feature that pulls back the filament into the nozzle when it’s not extruding, to reduce the pressure and prevent oozing. Retraction settings include retraction distance, which is how much filament is retracted, and retraction speed, which is how fast the filament is retracted.

So how can you tell if your stringing is caused by wet filament or retraction settings? Here are some tips:

  • Check your filament spool for signs of moisture, such as condensation. If you see any, your filament is likely wet and needs to be dried before printing. You can use a filament dryer, an oven, or a dehumidifier to dry your filament.
  • Print a temperature tower test to find the optimal nozzle temperature for your filament. Too high or too low temperature can cause stringing, so you want to find the right balance between melting and flowing. A temperature tower test prints a series of blocks at different temperatures, and you can choose the one with the best quality.
  • Print a retraction test to find the optimal retraction settings for your printer and filament. Retraction settings can vary depending on your extruder type (direct-drive or Bowden), nozzle size, and filament type. A retraction test prints a series of pillars with gaps between them, and you can adjust the retraction distance and speed until you eliminate stringing.
  • Experiment with different travel speeds and minimum travel distances. Travel speed is how fast the nozzle moves between gaps when it’s not extruding, and minimum travel distance is how far the nozzle has to move before retraction is enabled. Increasing both of these settings can reduce stringing by minimizing oozing and enabling more retraction.