Tag: nozzle

If you are into 3D printing, you might have heard that it is important to make your wall thicknesses in multiples of your nozzle size. But why is that? And what are the benefits of doing so?

The nozzle size is the diameter of the hole that extrudes the melted filament onto the build plate. The most common nozzle sizes are 0.4 mm and 0.8 mm, but there are also other options available. The nozzle size determines how much material is deposited per layer and how fine the details of your print can be.

The wall thickness is the width of the outer shell of your print. It is usually measured in millimeters or number of perimeters (the number of lines that make up the wall). The wall thickness affects the strength, durability and appearance of your print.

Now, why should you make your wall thicknesses in multiples of your nozzle size? The main reason is to avoid gaps or overlaps between the perimeters. If your wall thickness is not a multiple of your nozzle size, the slicer software will have to either leave a small gap between the perimeters or squeeze them together to fill the space. This can result in poor adhesion, weak walls, uneven surfaces or blobs and zits on your print.

For example, if you have a 0.4 mm nozzle and you set your wall thickness to 1.2 mm, you will get three perimeters that fit perfectly next to each other. But if you set your wall thickness to 1.3 mm, you will get three perimeters plus a 0.1 mm gap that the slicer will try to fill with extra material or leave empty. Either way, you will not get a smooth and consistent wall.

By making your wall thicknesses in multiples of your nozzle size, you can ensure that your perimeters are aligned and evenly spaced. This will result in stronger and smoother walls, better layer adhesion and less material waste. It will also make your slicing and printing process faster and easier, as the slicer will not have to calculate how to fill or avoid gaps.

Of course, this rule is not absolute and there may be situations where you want to deviate from it. For example, if you are printing a very thin wall that cannot accommodate a multiple of your nozzle size, or if you are using a variable layer height feature that changes the nozzle size dynamically. In these cases, you may have to experiment with different settings and see what works best for your model.

But as a general guideline, making your wall thicknesses in multiples of your nozzle size is a good practice that can improve your 3D printing results. I hope this blog post was helpful and informative for you. Happy printing!

If you have ever experienced a clogged nozzle or a jammed extruder on your 3D printer, you know how frustrating it can be. One of the possible causes of this problem is burnt filament stuck in the heatbreak, the thin metal tube that connects the hotend and the cold end of the extruder.

The first thing you need to do is to remove the nozzle from the hotend. You can do this by heating up the nozzle to about 200°C and using a wrench to unscrew it.

Next, you need to remove the heatbreak from the cold end. Depending on your extruder design, you may need to unscrew some screws or bolts, or loosen some clamps or springs. You can also mark the orientation of the heatbreak before removing it, so you can reassemble it correctly later.

Now, you have the heatbreak in your hand. You can inspect it and see if there is any burnt filament inside. Burnt filament usually looks dark brown or black, and may have a charred smell. If you see any signs of burnt filament, you need to clear it out.

There are two main methods to clear burnt filament out of a heatbreak: using heat or using mechanical force. Using heat means heating up the heatbreak and melting the burnt filament out. Using mechanical force means pushing or pulling the burnt filament out with a tool.

Using heat is easier and safer, but it may take longer and require more equipment. You can use a heat gun, a soldering iron, a blowtorch, or even your hotend to heat up the heatbreak. You need to heat it up to a temperature higher than the melting point of the filament, but lower than the melting point of the metal. For example, if you are using PLA filament, you can heat it up to about 220°C, but not higher than 660°C, which is the melting point of aluminum.

Once the heatbreak is hot enough, you can use a pair of tweezers or pliers to hold it and gently tap it on a hard surface, such as a metal plate or a ceramic tile. This will cause the melted filament to drip out of the heatbreak. You can also use a thin wire or a needle to poke through the heatbreak and push out any remaining filament. Be careful not to scratch or bend the heatbreak.

Using mechanical force is faster and simpler, but it may be more risky and less effective. You can use a drill bit, a hex key, a screwdriver, or any other tool that fits inside the heatbreak. You need to insert the tool into the heatbreak and twist it or push it until the burnt filament comes out. You can also use a hammer or a vise to apply more force if needed. Be careful not to break or deform the heatbreak.

After clearing out the burnt filament, you need to clean the heatbreak thoroughly. You can use some acetone, alcohol, or water to wipe off any residue or dust. You can also use some compressed air or a vacuum cleaner to blow out any particles. Make sure the heatbreak is dry and shiny before reassembling it.

Finally, you need to reassemble the extruder and reinstall the nozzle.

A thermistor is a device that measures and controls the temperature of your 3D printer’s hot end and heated bed. It is a vital component for successful 3D printing, as it ensures that your printer operates at the optimal temperature for your chosen filament.

However, thermistors are also fragile and prone to damage or malfunction. A bad thermistor can cause a variety of problems, such as inaccurate temperature readings, thermal runaway, print errors, and poor print quality.

How to Diagnose a Bad Thermistor on a 3D Printer

There are several ways to check if your thermistor is working properly or not. Here are some of the most common methods:

  • Use a multimeter. A multimeter is a device that can measure the resistance of your thermistor. You can use it to compare the resistance value of your thermistor with the expected value from the manufacturer’s specifications or a resistance-temperature table. If the values are significantly different, your thermistor may be faulty.
  • Use a diagnostic test. Some 3D printers have built-in diagnostic tests that can check the functionality of your thermistor. You can access these tests from your printer’s menu or software. If the test fails or shows an error code, your thermistor may be faulty.
  • Look for symptoms. A bad thermistor can also cause some noticeable symptoms that affect your printing process. Some of these symptoms are:
  • Thermal runaway. This is when your printer’s temperature goes out of control and exceeds the safety limit. This can damage your printer or even cause a fire. Thermal runaway can happen if your thermistor is loose, broken, or shorted.
  • Higher than usual print temperatures. If your printer requires a higher temperature than the recommended one to extrude your filament, your thermistor may be faulty. This can result in over-extrusion, stringing, oozing, or blobbing.

What to Do About a Bad Thermistor on a 3D Printer

If you suspect that your thermistor is bad, you should replace it as soon as possible.Here are some general guidelines:

  • Replacing the thermistor on your hot end:
  • Turn off and unplug your printer.
  • Wait for the hot end to cool down completely.
  • Remove any filament from the extruder.
  • Remove any fan shrouds or covers that block access to the hot end.
  • Locate the thermistor on the hot end. It is usually a small cylinder with two wires attached to it.
  • Carefully disconnect the wires from the thermistor. You may need to cut them or use a screwdriver to loosen them.
  • Remove the old thermistor from the hot end. You may need to unscrew it or pull it out gently.
  • Insert the new thermistor into the hot end. Make sure it fits snugly and securely.
  • Connect the wires from the new thermistor to the wiring on your printer. Make sure they match the polarity and color coding of the old ones.
  • Reattach any fan shrouds or covers that you removed earlier.
  • Turn on and plug in your printer.
  • Calibrate your new thermistor using your printer’s menu or software.

The world of 3D printing has revolutionized manufacturing and design processes across industries. One key factor that significantly impacts the quality and reliability of 3D printed objects is thermal stability. I want to explore why thermal stability holds immense importance in the realm of 3D printing.

3D printing, also known as additive manufacturing, is a process that involves creating three-dimensional objects by layering materials based on a digital design. The success of 3D printing lies in achieving precise control over various parameters, including temperature. Thermal stability, the ability of a system to maintain a consistent temperature, plays a crucial role in ensuring the accuracy, structural integrity, and overall quality of the final printed objects.

Different 3D printing technologies utilize various materials such as thermoplastics, metals, resins, and composites. Each material has specific thermal characteristics that must be carefully managed during the printing process. Achieving thermal stability allows for precise control over the material’s melting point, viscosity, shrinkage, and curing reactions, ensuring optimal results.

Thermal stability is paramount in preventing warping and deformation in 3D printed objects. When materials cool too rapidly or unevenly, they can contract unevenly, leading to warping, curling, or cracking. Maintaining a stable and controlled printing environment, including the temperature of the build plate and the surrounding atmosphere, helps mitigate these issues and ensures dimensional accuracy.

Thermal stability directly affects the print quality and resolution of 3D printed objects. Variations in temperature can cause inconsistent material flow, resulting in uneven layer deposition, surface imperfections, or even failed prints. A stable and controlled temperature environment allows for consistent material flow, precise layering, and better adhesion between layers, ultimately leading to higher print quality and resolution.

In 3D printing, optimizing print speed is essential to increase efficiency and reduce production time. However, pushing the limits of print speed without considering thermal stability can lead to compromised print quality. Maintaining the appropriate temperature range for the material being used ensures that it flows smoothly and solidifies properly, enabling faster and more efficient printing without sacrificing quality.

Support structures play a vital role in 3D printing, especially when printing complex geometries or objects with overhangs. Thermal stability aids in the controlled and gradual cooling of the printed layers, allowing for the proper formation and removal of support structures. This process helps maintain the structural integrity of the printed object while minimizing the need for excessive supports or post-processing.

The main components of a hotend are:

  • The heater block: This is where the heating element and the thermistor are attached. The heater block transfers heat to the filament and controls the temperature of the hotend.
  • The heat break: This is a thin metal tube that connects the heater block to the heat sink. The heat break prevents heat from traveling up to the heat sink and causing clogs or jams.
  • The heat sink: This is a metal part with fins or ribs that dissipates heat from the heat break. The heat sink is usually cooled by a fan or water.
  • The nozzle: This is the tip of the hotend that extrudes the melted filament. The nozzle size and shape affect the resolution, speed and quality of the prints.

Some of the factors that make a hotend good quality are:

  • Temperature stability: A good hotend should be able to maintain a consistent temperature throughout the printing process. Temperature fluctuations can cause under-extrusion, over-extrusion, stringing, oozing or poor layer adhesion. A good hotend should have a reliable heating element, a precise thermistor and a PID controller that adjusts the power output to keep the temperature steady.
  • Thermal conductivity: A good hotend should have a high thermal conductivity, which means it can transfer heat quickly and evenly to the filament. This can improve the print quality and reduce the risk of clogs or jams. A good hotend should have a metal heater block, a metal heat break and a metal nozzle. Some materials, such as copper or titanium, have higher thermal conductivity than others, such as aluminum or brass.
  • Thermal isolation: A good hotend should have a low thermal isolation, which means it can prevent heat from escaping or spreading to unwanted areas. This can improve the print quality and reduce the risk of heat creep or warping. A good hotend should have a well-designed heat break, a well-cooled heat sink and an insulation material around the heater block.
  • Nozzle design: A good hotend should have a nozzle that matches your printing needs and preferences. The nozzle size affects the resolution, speed and flow rate of your prints. A smaller nozzle can produce finer details but requires slower printing speeds and higher temperatures. A larger nozzle can produce faster prints but with lower resolution and more visible layers. The nozzle shape affects the extrusion pattern and quality of your prints. A round nozzle can produce smoother prints but with less control over corners and edges. A flat nozzle can produce sharper prints but with more risk of blobs or zits.

This weekend I received a Creality Spider hotend as a birthday present. After running a few testing prints, it seems to check all of the boxes. So far it seems to be a hotend that is built from quality components and that maintains its heat very well. I’m looking forward to a whole lot of printing with this thing.

Volumetric flow is a concept that relates to how much material a 3D printer can extrude in a given time. It is usually measured in cubic millimeters per second (mm³/s) and depends on factors such as the nozzle diameter, the extrusion temperature, and the type of filament being used.

Volumetric flow is important for 3D printing because it affects both the quality and the speed of the printing process. If the volumetric flow is too low, the printer may not be able to fill the gaps between the layers, resulting in weak or incomplete prints. If the volumetric flow is too high, the printer may over-extrude, causing blobs, stringing, or clogging.

To achieve optimal volumetric flow, one needs to calibrate the flow rate (also known as extrusion multiplier) in the slicer settings. This is a factor that adjusts how much filament the printer pushes through the nozzle. The flow rate can be calibrated by printing a test object with known dimensions and measuring its actual dimensions with calipers. The flow rate can then be adjusted until the measured dimensions match the expected ones.

Alternatively, one can use a volumetric flow calculator to estimate the optimal flow rate based on the nozzle diameter, the filament diameter, and the maximum extrusion temperature. This can save time and material by avoiding trial-and-error prints. However, this method may not account for variations in filament quality or environmental conditions, so it is recommended to verify the results with a test print.

Volumetric flow is also relevant for volumetric 3D printing, a technique that creates objects by solidifying a whole resin volume with light beams. This method can produce complex shapes with high resolution and smooth surfaces without requiring support structures or layer-by-layer fabrication. However, this method also requires precise control of the volumetric flow rate to avoid over- or under-exposure of the resin.

What to Check for on Your 3D Printer Nozzle

The first thing you should do is inspect your nozzle visually. Look for any signs of damage, such as cracks, dents, or scratches. If you see any, you should replace your nozzle.

Next, you should check if your nozzle is clean and free of any debris or filament residue. To clean your nozzle, you can use a brass brush or a needle to gently remove any stuck material. You can also heat up your nozzle and wipe it.

Finally, you should check if your nozzle is aligned with your print bed.

How to Maintain Your 3D Printer Nozzle

To keep your nozzle in good condition, you should perform some regular maintenance tasks. Here are some tips:

  • Clean your nozzle after every print or before changing filaments. This will prevent clogging and filament jams.
  • Use high-quality filaments that are compatible with your nozzle size and material type. Avoid using abrasive filaments, such as metal-filled or glow-in-the-dark ones, unless you have a hardened steel nozzle.
  • Store your filaments in a dry and cool place. Moisture and heat can degrade your filaments and cause extrusion issues.
  • Replace your nozzle when it wears out or gets damaged. A worn-out nozzle can have a larger or irregular diameter, which can affect the accuracy and quality of your prints.

How to Calibrate Your 3D Printer Nozzle

To get the best results from your 3D printer, you should calibrate your nozzle regularly. Calibration involves setting the correct nozzle temperature, flow rate, and retraction settings for your filament type and print quality. Here are some steps:

  • Find the recommended temperature range for your filament type and brand. You can usually find this information on the filament spool or the manufacturer’s website.
  • Heat up your nozzle to the lowest temperature in the range and extrude some filament. Observe how the filament comes out of the nozzle. It should be smooth and consistent, without any bubbles, curls, or strings.
  • Increase the temperature by 5°C increments and repeat the extrusion test until you find the optimal temperature for your filament. The optimal temperature is the one that gives you the best extrusion quality without causing overheating or oozing.
  • Find the recommended flow rate for your filament type and brand. You can usually find this information on the filament spool or the manufacturer’s website.
  • Print a calibration cube or a single-wall vase with 100% infill and no top or bottom layers. Measure the wall thickness with a caliper and compare it to the expected value (usually 0.4 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle).
  • Adjust the flow rate in your slicer software until the wall thickness matches the expected value.
  • Find the recommended retraction settings for your filament type and brand.
  • Print a retraction test model that has multiple towers with gaps between them. Observe how much stringing occurs between the towers.
  • Adjust the retraction distance and speed in your slicer software until you minimize stringing without causing under-extrusion or blobs.

Z offset is a term that refers to the distance between the nozzle of your 3D printer and the print bed. It is an important parameter that affects the quality and adhesion of your prints. If the Z offset is too high, the nozzle will be too far from the bed and the first layer will not stick well. If the Z offset is too low, the nozzle will be too close to the bed and may scratch it or cause extrusion problems.

The first step is to measure your current Z offset. You can do this by printing a test pattern, such as a single-layer square or circle, and observing how it looks on the bed. Ideally, you want the first layer to be slightly squished and have a smooth surface. If the first layer is too thin or has gaps, your Z offset is too high. If the first layer is too thick or has blobs, your Z offset is too low.

To adjust your Z offset, you need to access your printer’s firmware settings. Depending on your printer model and software, you may have different ways to do this. Some printers have a menu option that allows you to change the Z offset directly. Others require you to use a terminal program or a G-code command to modify the Z offset value. You can find more information about your specific printer in its manual or online forums.

Once you have access to your Z offset setting, you can increase or decrease it by small increments, such as 0.01 mm or 0.05 mm. The direction of the adjustment depends on whether you need to raise or lower your nozzle. For example, if your Z offset is too high, you need to lower your nozzle by decreasing the Z offset value. If your Z offset is too low, you need to raise your nozzle by increasing the Z offset value.

After each adjustment, you should print another test pattern and check the first layer quality. Repeat this process until you find the optimal Z offset for your printer and filament. You may need to fine-tune your Z offset for different materials or environmental conditions, as they can affect the extrusion and adhesion of your prints.

Has your nozzle ever dragged across the top surface of your 3d printed part and given you those little valleys? This is often due to a simple but common problem: a poorly leveled bed.

By leveling your bed correctly, you will not only save time and money on wasted filament and failed prints, but also improve the quality and accuracy of your prints. You will be able to print smoother surfaces, sharper details, and more complex shapes without any hassle.

To level your bed properly, you will need a sheet of paper, a ruler, and a screwdriver. Follow these simple steps to get started:

  • Turn on your 3D printer and heat up the bed and the nozzle to the temperature you normally use for printing.
  • Place the sheet of paper on one corner of the bed and move the nozzle over it.
  • Adjust the height of the bed using the screwdriver until you feel a slight resistance when you slide the paper under the nozzle. If your bed is leveled with thumbscrews, obviously use those instead.
  • Repeat this process for the other three corners of the bed, making sure that the paper has the same resistance at each point.
  • Check the levelness of the bed by moving the nozzle across the entire surface and sliding the paper under it. If you feel any difference in resistance, adjust the corresponding corner until it is even.
  • Measure the distance between the nozzle and the bed using the ruler. It should be around 0.1 mm for most printers and filaments. If it is too high or too low, adjust the height of the entire bed using the screws on the sides or front of the printer.
  • Once you have leveled your bed properly, you are ready to print. Enjoy your flawless prints!

Have you ever started a 3d print, only to come back a few hours later to find that your nozzle in midair with nothing being extruded from it? Then you fix the clog, only to have the same thing happen? If so, you might have encountered heat creep. This is when heat from the hot end travels up the filament and causes it to melt before it reaches the nozzle. This can result in clogs, underextrusion, and poor print quality.

How can you recognize heat creep? Some symptoms include:

  • Filament grinding or slipping in the extruder
  • Filament oozing out of the nozzle when not printing
  • Filament snapping or breaking during printing
  • Inconsistent extrusion or gaps in layers
  • Nozzle jamming or clicking noises

Heat creep can be caused by various factors, such as:

  • Printing at too high temperature
  • Poor cooling of the hot end or heat sink
  • Improper insulation of the hot end
  • Faulty or dirty fans
  • Low-quality or incompatible filament

Fortunately, heat creep can be prevented or fixed with some simple solutions, such as:

  • Lowering the printing temperature to the minimum recommended for your filament
  • Increasing the cooling of the hot end or heat sink with better fans or ducts
  • Adding thermal paste or silicone socks to the hot end to improve insulation
  • Cleaning or replacing the fans regularly to ensure optimal airflow
  • Using high-quality and compatible filament that matches your printer settings