Tag: troubleshooting

Beginners to 3D printing often face a range of challenges and struggles as they start their journey into this fascinating world of technology. Here are some common things that beginners often find challenging:

  1. Bed Leveling: Achieving the correct bed leveling is crucial for successful prints. Beginners may struggle to ensure that the first layer adheres properly to the build surface.
  2. Choosing the Right Settings: Understanding and configuring the myriad of settings in slicing software can be overwhelming. Beginners may find it challenging to select the optimal settings for their prints.
  3. Print Adhesion: Ensuring that the print sticks to the bed without warping or coming loose during printing can be tricky, especially with certain materials like ABS.
  4. Filament Loading: Loading and unloading filament correctly can be a struggle for beginners. Incorrect loading can lead to jams or inconsistent extrusion.
  5. Calibrating Extrusion: Getting the right amount of filament extruded is vital. Over or under-extrusion can result in poor print quality.
  6. Understanding Supports: Knowing when and how to use support structures for complex prints can be confusing for beginners.
  7. Print Failures: Dealing with print failures and troubleshooting issues like stringing, layer separation, or misalignment can be frustrating.
  8. Model Design and Modification: Creating or modifying 3D models to fit specific needs can be challenging for beginners who are not yet familiar with CAD (Computer-Aided Design) software.
  9. Upkeep and Maintenance: Regular maintenance of the 3D printer, including cleaning, lubrication, and part replacement, can be a new and unfamiliar task.
  10. Material Selection: Choosing the right filament material for a specific project can be daunting, as different materials have unique properties and requirements.
  11. Patience: 3D printing requires patience, as even experienced users encounter failed prints and unexpected issues.
  12. Cost Considerations: Budgeting for materials, replacement parts, and potential upgrades can be a concern for beginners.
  13. Learning Curve: Learning 3D printing involves a significant learning curve, which can deter some newcomers.

To overcome these challenges, beginners often benefit from thorough research, online communities and forums, tutorials, and hands-on experience. Start with simple projects and gradually work up to more complex prints as skills improve. With time and practice, many of these initial struggles become less daunting, and beginners can unlock the full potential of 3D printing.

3D printing is a rewarding hobby, but it occasionally presents a challenge: how to remove a stubborn print from the bed. Whether it’s due to adhesion issues or a particularly intricate design, we’ll explore effective methods to safely and successfully free your creation.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need:

  • A 3D Printer with a Stuck Print
  • Spatula or Putty Knife
  • Heat Gun or Hair Dryer (optional)
  • Safety Gloves (recommended)

Step 1: Safety First
Before attempting to remove the print, ensure your 3D printer is turned off and cool to the touch. It’s also advisable to wear safety gloves to protect your hands during the process.

Step 2: Assess the Situation
Examine the stuck print carefully. Determine if it’s just adhered too well to the bed or if there are any critical features that might break during removal.

Step 3: Use a Spatula or Putty Knife
Gently slide a spatula or putty knife underneath the edge of the print. Start from a corner or an area where the print has lifted slightly. Be patient and avoid using excessive force, as this can damage the bed or the print.

Step 4: Apply Heat (if necessary)
If the print is especially stubborn, you can use a heat gun or hair dryer to warm the bed slightly. This softens the adhesive and makes it easier to lift the print. Keep the heat source moving and at a safe distance to avoid damaging the print or the printer.

Step 5: Gradually Lift
Continue to slide the spatula or putty knife underneath the print, gently lifting it as you go. Take your time, and don’t rush. If you encounter resistance, apply a bit more heat and try again.

Step 6: Remove Any Residue
Once the print is removed, you might have some residual adhesive or filament left on the bed. Use a soft cloth or a specialized adhesive remover to clean the bed thoroughly.

Step 7: Check for Damage
Inspect the print and the printer bed for any damage. If there are minor imperfections, they can often be repaired. If the damage is significant, consider replacing the print bed.

Removing a stuck 3D print from the bed can be a delicate process, but with the right tools and patience, it’s entirely manageable. The key is to approach it gently and gradually, ensuring that both the print and the printer bed remain in good condition.


In the intricate world of 3D printing, understanding the behavior of different filaments when heated is crucial. One key aspect is thermal expansion – the tendency of filament materials to expand upon heating. This post delves into how filament expansion can affect your prints and ways to mitigate these effects for optimal results.

Understanding Filament Expansion:

Why Filaments Expand:

  • Most materials, including those used for 3D printing filaments, expand when heated. This is due to the increased movement of molecules at higher temperatures.

Variation Among Filament Types:

  • Different filament materials exhibit varying degrees of thermal expansion. For example, ABS expands more than PLA, which can lead to different printing challenges.

Problems Caused by Filament Expansion:

Dimensional Inaccuracies:

  • Excessive expansion can lead to parts being larger than intended, causing issues with fit and assembly in multi-part projects.

Warping and Layer Separation:

  • Uneven expansion can cause parts of the print to lift off the bed (warping) or layers to separate, especially in large prints.

Nozzle Clogs:

  • In some cases, expansion can lead to excessive filament build-up around the nozzle, potentially causing clogs.

Strategies to Mitigate Expansion Issues:

Temperature Control:

  • Fine-tuning the printing temperature can minimize expansion. Lower temperatures reduce expansion but must be balanced against proper filament melting.

Heated Bed Usage:

  • A heated bed maintains a consistent temperature at the base of the print, reducing warping caused by uneven cooling and contraction.

Enclosure for Temperature Management:

  • Using an enclosure can help maintain a stable temperature around the print, minimizing rapid temperature changes that contribute to expansion issues.

Filament Selection:

  • Choose filaments with lower thermal expansion coefficients for projects where dimensional accuracy is critical.

Printing Speed Adjustments:

  • Slower printing speeds can allow for more uniform cooling and reduce the effects of expansion.

Layer Height and Wall Thickness:

  • Adjusting layer height and wall thickness can also help manage the effects of expansion.

Calibration and Testing:

  • Regularly calibrating your printer and conducting test prints can help you understand how different filaments behave on your machine.


Filament expansion when heated is a natural phenomenon in 3D printing that can lead to several issues if not properly managed. By understanding the properties of your filament and adjusting your printing process accordingly, you can significantly reduce the impacts of thermal expansion and ensure higher-quality prints.


As the temperature drops, many 3D printing enthusiasts encounter the frustrating error message: “Heater extruder not heating at expected rate.” This common issue in colder weather can halt your printing projects. In this post, we’ll guide you through troubleshooting and resolving this problem.


This error typically occurs when the 3D printer’s extruder is unable to reach the desired temperature within a certain timeframe. Cold ambient temperatures can significantly impact the printer’s ability to heat up.

Troubleshooting Steps:

Check the Power Supply:

  • Ensure your printer’s power supply is adequate and stable. Inadequate power can lead to insufficient heating.

Inspect the Heating Element and Thermistor:

  • Examine the heating element and thermistor for any signs of damage or loose connections. Replace if necessary.

Upgrade Insulation:

  • Consider adding additional insulation around the heater block. This can help maintain heat, especially in a cold environment.

Use an Enclosure:

  • Printing inside an enclosure can help maintain a consistent temperature around the printer, reducing the impact of cold ambient air.

Preheat the Printer:

  • Allow more time for your printer to preheat before starting a print. This can be particularly necessary in colder conditions.

Check for Drafts:

  • Ensure your printing area is free from drafts that could be cooling the printer.

Firmware Settings:

  • Some printers allow you to adjust the time frame for heating. Extending this time can prevent the error from triggering prematurely.

Consider a Heated Build Environment:

  • For extreme cases, especially in very cold environments, a heated build chamber might be necessary.

Preventive Measures:

Regular Maintenance:

  • Regularly check and maintain your printer’s heating system to ensure everything is in optimal condition.

Environment Control:

  • Keep your printer in an environment with minimal temperature fluctuations.

The “Heater extruder not heating at expected rate” error in cold weather can be a hurdle, but with the right approach, it’s manageable. By understanding your printer’s heating needs and making adjustments for colder temperatures, you can ensure successful prints year-round.

At some point, you will get a clogged nozzle. This can affect the quality of your prints and cause frustration. But how do you decide if it’s better to purchase a new 3D printer nozzle or clean the one that you have?

The first factor to consider is the cost of a new nozzle versus the cost of cleaning supplies. Depending on the type and size of your nozzle, you may find that buying a new one is cheaper than buying the tools and materials needed to clean it. For example, some nozzles require special solvents or heating devices to dissolve the clogged material. However, if you already have the cleaning supplies or you can find them at a low price, then cleaning your nozzle may be more economical.

The second factor to consider is the time and effort involved in cleaning your nozzle. Cleaning a nozzle can be a tedious and time-consuming process, especially if the clog is severe or hard to reach. You may need to disassemble your printer, soak your nozzle in a solvent, use a needle or a wire to poke out the clog, or even heat up your nozzle to melt the material. This can take hours or even days, depending on the severity of the clog and the method you use. On the other hand, buying a new nozzle can save you a lot of time and hassle, as you can simply replace your old one with a new one and resume printing.

The third factor to consider is the quality and performance of your nozzle. Cleaning your nozzle may not always restore it to its original condition, especially if it has been damaged by wear and tear, corrosion, or overheating. A damaged nozzle can affect the accuracy, precision, and smoothness of your prints, as well as increase the risk of future clogs. Buying a new nozzle can ensure that you get the best possible results from your 3D printer, as well as extend its lifespan.

In conclusion, deciding whether to purchase a new 3D printer nozzle or clean the one that you have depends on several factors, such as cost, time, effort, and quality. You should weigh these factors carefully and choose the option that suits your needs and preferences best. Happy printing!

Have you ever encountered the problem of gaps in your printed layers? This can affect the quality and strength of your prints, and make them look less appealing. What causes this issue and how can you fix it?

One possible reason for gaps in 3D printed layers is a low nozzle temperature. If the nozzle is not hot enough, the filament may not melt properly and flow smoothly. This can result in inconsistent extrusion and poor layer adhesion. To solve this problem, you can try increasing the nozzle temperature by 5-10 degrees Celsius and see if it makes a difference. You can also check if your nozzle is clogged or worn out, and clean or replace it if necessary.

Another possible reason for gaps in 3D printed layers is a high printing speed. If you print too fast, the filament may not have enough time to bond with the previous layer and form a solid structure. This can result in weak and brittle prints with visible gaps. To solve this problem, you can try decreasing the printing speed by 10-20 percent and see if it improves the quality of your prints. You can also check if your printer is properly calibrated and has no mechanical issues that could affect its performance.

By adjusting the nozzle temperature and printing speed, you may be able to eliminate the gaps in your 3D printed layers and achieve better results. However, keep in mind that these are not the only factors that can affect your prints. You should also consider the type and quality of your filament, the bed temperature and adhesion, the cooling fan settings, the layer height and width, and other parameters that may vary depending on your printer model and software. Experiment with different settings until you find the optimal combination for your project.

Delamination is when the layers of the printed object separate from each other, resulting in a weak and brittle structure. Delamination can ruin the appearance and functionality of your 3D prints, and it can be very frustrating to deal with.

Causes of delamination

There are many factors that can contribute to delamination, but the main ones are:

  • Printing temperature: If the printing temperature is too low, the layers will not fuse properly and will be more prone to splitting. If the printing temperature is too high, the layers will warp and curl, creating gaps and cracks.
  • Cooling fan: If the cooling fan is too strong or too weak, it can affect the layer adhesion and cause delamination. A strong fan can cool down the layers too quickly, preventing them from bonding well. A weak fan can leave the layers too hot, causing them to deform and shrink.
  • Printing speed: If the printing speed is too fast, the layers will not have enough time to bond and will be more likely to separate. If the printing speed is too slow, the layers will overheat and warp.
  • Filament quality: If the filament is of poor quality or has absorbed moisture, it can affect the print quality and cause delamination. Moisture can cause bubbles and cracks in the filament, which can lead to weak and inconsistent layers.
  • Bed leveling: If the bed is not leveled properly, the first layer will not adhere well to the surface and will create a weak foundation for the rest of the print. A poorly leveled bed can also cause nozzle clogging and extrusion issues.

Fixes for delamination

Depending on the cause of delamination, there are different solutions that you can try to prevent or reduce it. Here are some of them:

  • Adjust the printing temperature: You can use a temperature tower to find the optimal printing temperature for your filament and printer. A temperature tower is a test print that consists of several sections with different temperatures.
  • Adjust the cooling fan: You can use a cooling fan test to find the optimal cooling fan speed for your filament and printer. A cooling fan test is a test print that consists of several bridges with different fan speeds.
  • Adjust the printing speed: You can use a speed test to find the optimal printing speed for your filament and printer. A speed test is a test print that consists of several cylinders with different speeds.
  • Replace or dry the filament: You can use a filament dryer to remove any moisture from your filament before printing. A filament dryer is a device that heats up and circulates air around your filament spool, reducing its humidity level. You can also store your filament in a sealed container with desiccants to prevent moisture absorption.
  • Level the bed: You can use a bed leveling test to check if your bed is leveled properly. A bed leveling test is a test print that consists of several squares across the bed surface.

Yesterday I posted about what can happen if your printing speed is too low. You basically end up with a big, oozy mess. Today I wanted to talk about what happens if your printing speed is too high.

What happens to the filament inside the nozzle?

The filament inside the nozzle is melted by the heat of the extruder, and then pushed out through a small opening at the tip of the nozzle. The nozzle acts like a valve that controls the flow and direction of the molten filament. The filament needs to be hot enough to flow smoothly, but not too hot to burn or degrade. The temperature of the filament also affects its viscosity, or how thick or thin it is. A higher viscosity means a thicker filament that is harder to push out, while a lower viscosity means a thinner filament that is easier to push out.

When you print at high speeds, you are asking the extruder to push out more filament in less time. This means that the filament has less time to melt and reach the optimal temperature and viscosity for extrusion. As a result, the filament may not flow properly, and may stick to the nozzle instead of adhering to the print bed or the previous layer. This can cause several problems, such as:

  • Filament curling: This is when the filament curls up around the nozzle instead of laying flat on the print bed or the previous layer. This can happen when the nozzle is too close to the bed or the layer, or when the bed or layer is not hot enough to keep the filament from cooling too quickly. Curling can lead to poor adhesion, stringing, blobs, and clogs.
  • Filament oozing: This is when the filament leaks out of the nozzle when it is not supposed to, such as during travel moves or retraction. This can happen when the nozzle is too hot, or when the retraction settings are not optimal. Oozing can lead to stringing, blobs, and poor surface quality.
  • Filament jamming: This is when the filament gets stuck inside the nozzle and prevents further extrusion. This can happen when the nozzle is too cold, or when there is dust

The solution to a lot of problems is to slow down your print speed. But, is there such a thing as too slow (spoiler alert, yes there is)?

If you think about what’s happening inside the nozzle, it makes sense. You are melting some plastic and pushing it through an orifice (the nozzle). If your speed is too high, you end up trying to push unmelted plastic. That’s a problem too, but the subject for a different post. This post is about the other extreme. When your temperature is high and your speed is low, the filament sits in the chamber for a long time.

However, if you raise your 3d printer temperature too high and go too slow, you are likely to encounter several issues. Some of them are:

  • Overheating: Printing with too high temperature can cause the filament to overheat and degrade. This can lead to clogging, jamming, or nozzle damage. It can also affect the color and appearance of the filament, making it darker or duller. Overheating can also cause thermal runaway, which is a dangerous situation where the temperature sensor fails and the heater keeps heating up uncontrollably.
  • Oozing: Printing with too high temperature and too slow speed can cause the filament to ooze out of the nozzle when it is not supposed to. This can create blobs, strings, or zits on the surface of your print, ruining its aesthetics and accuracy. Oozing can also waste filament and make it harder to clean your nozzle.
  • Warping: Printing with too high temperature and too slow speed can cause the filament to cool down unevenly on the print bed. This can create internal stresses that make the print warp or curl up at the edges or corners. Warping can affect the dimensional accuracy and stability of your print, as well as its adhesion to the print bed.
  • Cracking: Printing with too high temperature and too slow speed can cause the filament to shrink more than usual as it cools down. This can create gaps or cracks between the layers or within the walls of your print. Cracking can compromise the strength and durability of your print, as well as its appearance.
  • Jamming: Your filament is melted. When the gcode performs a retract function, it pulls melted plastic backwards, which subsequently starts to cool. It doesn’t take long for it to solidify enough to cause problems and will often get stuck.

The solution is often simple. You can either increase your speed or decrease your temperature.

3D printer stringing is a common problem that many beginners face when they start 3D printing. Stringing is when thin strands of filament are left behind on the print, creating a messy and unprofessional look. Stringing can ruin the appearance and functionality of your 3D printed objects, so it’s important to know how to prevent it and fix it.

There are several factors that can cause 3D printer stringing, but the main ones are:

  • Temperature: If the nozzle temperature is too high, the filament will melt too much and become more fluid. This makes it easier for the filament to ooze out of the nozzle when it’s not supposed to, creating strings. To avoid this, you should lower the nozzle temperature until you find the optimal setting for your filament type and brand. You can also use a cooling fan to cool down the filament as soon as it leaves the nozzle, reducing its viscosity and stringing tendency.
  • Retraction: Retraction is when the extruder pulls back the filament slightly before moving to a different part of the print. This prevents the filament from leaking out of the nozzle during travel moves, which can cause stringing. To enable retraction, you need to adjust the retraction distance and speed settings in your slicer software. The retraction distance is how much filament is pulled back, and the retraction speed is how fast it is pulled back. The optimal values depend on your printer model, extruder type, and filament material, but you can start with a retraction distance of 2-5 mm and a retraction speed of 40-60 mm/s and tweak them as needed.
  • Travel speed: Travel speed is how fast the nozzle moves from one point to another when it’s not printing. If the travel speed is too low, the filament will have more time to ooze out of the nozzle and create strings. To avoid this, you should increase the travel speed as much as possible without compromising the print quality. A good starting point is 150-200 mm/s, but you can experiment with different values until you find the best one for your printer and filament.
  • Z-hop: Z-hop is when the nozzle lifts up slightly before moving to a different part of the print. This creates a small gap between the nozzle and the print surface, which can prevent the nozzle from dragging across the print and leaving strings behind. To enable Z-hop, you need to adjust the Z-hop height setting in your slicer software. The Z-hop height is how much the nozzle lifts up, and it should be just enough to clear the print surface without causing too much vibration or noise. A typical value is 0.1-0.2 mm, but you can fine-tune it as needed.