Tag: troubleshooting

How to recognize when 3D printer temperature is too low?

The temperature of the nozzle is crucial for the quality and strength of the printed object. If the temperature is too high, the filament may burn, clog the nozzle, or ooze excessively. If the temperature is too low, the filament may not melt properly, resulting in poor adhesion, under-extrusion, or warping.

So how can you tell if your 3D printer temperature is too low? Here are some signs to look out for:

  • The filament does not stick to the build plate or to the previous layers. This can cause gaps, holes, or cracks in the printed object.
  • The filament curls up or bends at the tip of the nozzle. This can cause stringing, blobs, or zits on the surface of the printed object.
  • The filament snaps or breaks easily. This can cause jams, clogs, or extruder skipping.
  • The printed object has a rough or matte surface. This can reduce the aesthetic appeal and smoothness of the printed object.

If you notice any of these signs, you may need to increase your 3D printer temperature by a few degrees and try again. You can also use a temperature tower test to find the optimal temperature range for your filament and printer model. A temperature tower is a simple model that prints at different temperatures along its height, allowing you to compare the results and choose the best one.

Different filaments have different melting points and require different temperatures. For example, PLA typically prints well at around 200°C, while ABS needs around 230°C. You should always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and adjust accordingly based on your printer’s performance and environment.

A Z seam isn’t really a “problem,” so much as it is just something that happens in 3d printing when you use an FDM printer. It is a line or a seam that is created along the Z-axis, where the printhead stops and moves up to print the next layer. This can cause a slight gap, a blob, or a zit on the surface of your print, especially on smooth and round objects.

There are several ways to fix or hide the Z seam in your 3D prints, depending on your slicer settings and your model geometry. Here are some of the most effective methods:

  • Adjust retraction settings: Retraction is when the extruder pulls back the filament slightly to prevent oozing during non-printing movements. By improving your retraction settings, you can reduce the amount of material that leaks out at the end of each layer, which can minimize the Z seam. You can adjust the retraction distance, speed, and extra prime amount in your slicer to find the optimal values for your printer and filament.
  • Change Z seam alignment settings: Z seam alignment is how your slicer decides where to place the Z seam on your model. You can choose between random, shortest, user-specified, or sharpest corner options. Random alignment will scatter the Z seams all over your model, making them less noticeable but also less consistent. Shortest alignment will place the Z seams at the closest point to the previous layer, reducing print time but also creating a visible line. User-specified alignment will let you choose a specific location for the Z seam, such as the back or the front of your model. Sharpest corner alignment will place the Z seams at the sharpest corners of your model, hiding them in the details.
  • Reduce print speed: Print speed affects how much pressure is built up in the hotend during printing. If you print too fast, you may have more material oozing out at the end of each layer, creating a bigger Z seam. By reducing your print speed, you can lower the pressure and improve the flow control of your extruder, resulting in a smoother surface finish.
  • Enable coasting: Coasting is when your slicer stops extruding a little bit before the end of each perimeter, letting the remaining pressure in the nozzle push out the filament. This can help reduce oozing and stringing, as well as Z seams. However, coasting can also cause under-extrusion or gaps in some cases, so you need to experiment with different coasting distances and volumes to find the right balance.
  • Enable linear advance: Linear advance is a firmware feature that adjusts the extruder pressure based on the print speed and acceleration. It can help improve print quality by compensating for over-extrusion and under-extrusion at different speeds. By enabling linear advance, you can also reduce the Z seam by having more consistent extrusion throughout each layer.

There are several factors that can cause weak infill in 3D prints, such as:

  • Infill density: This is the percentage of material used to fill the interior of a 3D printed object. A higher infill density means more material and stronger infill, while a lower infill density means less material and weaker infill. A general rule of thumb is to use at least 20% infill density for most prints.
  • Infill pattern: This is the shape of the material used to fill the interior of a 3D printed object. There are many types of infill patterns, such as grid, honeycomb, triangular, gyroid, etc. Some infill patterns are stronger than others, depending on how they distribute the material and how they connect with the outer shell of the object. For example, honeycomb and triangular patterns are stronger than grid and lines patterns.
  • Infill speed: This is the speed at which the nozzle moves while printing the infill. A higher infill speed means faster printing time, but it can also cause under-extrusion, which means not enough material is extruded from the nozzle. Under-extrusion can result in weak and stringy infill, as well as poor adhesion between the layers. A lower infill speed means slower printing time, but it can also ensure better extrusion and stronger infill.
  • Infill line width: This is the thickness of the material used to print the infill. A higher infill line width means more material and stronger infill, while a lower infill line width means less material and weaker infill. The optimal infill line width depends on the nozzle size and layer height you are using. A general rule of thumb is to use an infill line width that is equal to or slightly larger than your nozzle size.

How to Fix Weak Infill?

If you have diagnosed that your 3D prints have weak infill, you can try some of these solutions to fix it:

  • Increase your infill density: This is the easiest way to improve your infill strength. You can adjust your infill density in your slicer software before printing. As mentioned earlier, a minimum of 20% infill density is recommended for most prints.
  • Change your infill pattern: This can also make a big difference in your infill strength. You can choose a different infill pattern in your slicer software before printing. As mentioned earlier, some patterns are stronger than others, so you may want to experiment with different options and see what works best for your print.
  • Lower your infill speed: This can help prevent under-extrusion and improve your infill quality. You can adjust your infill speed in your slicer software before printing. A good way to find the optimal speed is to start with a low value and gradually increase it until you see signs of under-extrusion or poor quality.
  • Increase your infill line width: This can also help increase your infill strength by using more material. You can adjust your infill line width in your slicer software before printing. As mentioned earlier, a good way to find the optimal value is to use an online calculator or a test print.

We had a sudden weather change last week here in Texas. The high temperature for the day went from about 65 to about 90 pretty suddenly, and I hadn’t really thought about the implications to my printer. The environment where I keep my printer is “somewhat controlled.” I normally let the HVAC shut off after around 4:00 PM. I also still have my enclosure on the printer, which I need to do to maintain enough heat around the 3d printer.

When the HVAC shut off, the temperature rose pretty quickly in the room and built up too much heat and the printer went into emergency shut down. I was about 30 hours into a 40 hour print, so I didn’t want to start over if I didn’t have to.

I get an error on my phone when this happens and then the machine shuts down. Here is how I was able to recover and what I could have done to prevent the shut down in the first place.

Step #1 – Make sure the heaters stay on. I went to my printer controls and turned on the bed heater to give me some time to work so that the part would not move.

Step #2 – Go to log file to find exact location of nozzle when it shut down. In Klipper, it is pretty easy to find by simply searching through the log files.

Step #3 – Download gcode file and open in code editor. This is tricky. I had to remove all of the gcode that had already been printed, but make sure that each of the setting codes remained. This was pretty time consuming. I had to find the exact spot that the log said the nozzle was when it shut down. Then I had to reupload this modified gcode file so that the printer would resume from there.

Prevention – What I should have done was to remove the enclosure so that it wouldn’t trap all of the heat in. I also should have left my HVAC system on so that the environment would stay cooler.

Note: whenever possible, try to leave the area where your printer homes clear. That way, if you ever have an emergency shutdown your machine can home without having to remove the part.

Continuing on with the theme of “stuff I should have known better but did anyways.”

I was diagnosing a problem a few months ago and decided that I needed to remove my extruder and disassemble it. I sat there, next to my printer, trying to find some space on my tabletop among all of my other printer accessories.

I checked everything. Motor gear? Good to go. Extruder gears? They are metal, but let’s check them anyways. They are good to go. Motor? It has the right voltage and it’s turning. No clog on the hotend. It’s good to go.

I decided to come back to it later.

When I came back to it, I still couldn’t figure it out so I contacted the manufacturer. They told me a few things to look for. I checked them but my extruder still wasn’t gripping the filament properly. I decided to put one of my old extruders back on (good thing I save them for just such a scenario).

When I pulled the old extruder out of my drawer and I happened to look down on the floor. There I saw it. A bearing. I knew immediately that this was the cause of everything. I must have dropped it when I disassembled my extruder and I didn’t notice. It turned out to be the bearing that holds the motor gear against the motor. When I didn’t notice that it was missing the filament was able to push the gears away, causing it not to grip properly. As soon as I put it back in everything started working again.

Save yourself some trouble. Disassemble in a clean area (not on a countertop, I have another story about a sink drain). Place all of your parts on a clean, light-colored cloth so that you don’t lose parts and they don’t go rolling off.

Has your nozzle ever dragged across the top surface of your 3d printed part and given you those little valleys? This is often due to a simple but common problem: a poorly leveled bed.

By leveling your bed correctly, you will not only save time and money on wasted filament and failed prints, but also improve the quality and accuracy of your prints. You will be able to print smoother surfaces, sharper details, and more complex shapes without any hassle.

To level your bed properly, you will need a sheet of paper, a ruler, and a screwdriver. Follow these simple steps to get started:

  • Turn on your 3D printer and heat up the bed and the nozzle to the temperature you normally use for printing.
  • Place the sheet of paper on one corner of the bed and move the nozzle over it.
  • Adjust the height of the bed using the screwdriver until you feel a slight resistance when you slide the paper under the nozzle. If your bed is leveled with thumbscrews, obviously use those instead.
  • Repeat this process for the other three corners of the bed, making sure that the paper has the same resistance at each point.
  • Check the levelness of the bed by moving the nozzle across the entire surface and sliding the paper under it. If you feel any difference in resistance, adjust the corresponding corner until it is even.
  • Measure the distance between the nozzle and the bed using the ruler. It should be around 0.1 mm for most printers and filaments. If it is too high or too low, adjust the height of the entire bed using the screws on the sides or front of the printer.
  • Once you have leveled your bed properly, you are ready to print. Enjoy your flawless prints!

Stringing is a common problem in 3D printing, especially with flexible materials like PETG. It occurs when thin strands of filament ooze from the nozzle as it moves between two points, creating unwanted hairs on your print. Stringing can ruin the appearance and quality of your print, so it’s important to know how to prevent it.

One of the main causes of stringing is wet filament. Filament can absorb moisture from the air over time, which can affect its printing properties. When wet filament is heated in the nozzle, it can create steam that pushes out excess filament, resulting in stringing. Wet filament can also cause popping noises, bubbles, and poor layer adhesion.

Another common cause of stringing is retraction settings. Retraction is a feature that pulls back the filament into the nozzle when it’s not extruding, to reduce the pressure and prevent oozing. Retraction settings include retraction distance, which is how much filament is retracted, and retraction speed, which is how fast the filament is retracted.

So how can you tell if your stringing is caused by wet filament or retraction settings? Here are some tips:

  • Check your filament spool for signs of moisture, such as condensation. If you see any, your filament is likely wet and needs to be dried before printing. You can use a filament dryer, an oven, or a dehumidifier to dry your filament.
  • Print a temperature tower test to find the optimal nozzle temperature for your filament. Too high or too low temperature can cause stringing, so you want to find the right balance between melting and flowing. A temperature tower test prints a series of blocks at different temperatures, and you can choose the one with the best quality.
  • Print a retraction test to find the optimal retraction settings for your printer and filament. Retraction settings can vary depending on your extruder type (direct-drive or Bowden), nozzle size, and filament type. A retraction test prints a series of pillars with gaps between them, and you can adjust the retraction distance and speed until you eliminate stringing.
  • Experiment with different travel speeds and minimum travel distances. Travel speed is how fast the nozzle moves between gaps when it’s not extruding, and minimum travel distance is how far the nozzle has to move before retraction is enabled. Increasing both of these settings can reduce stringing by minimizing oozing and enabling more retraction.

Have you ever experienced a thermal runaway error on your 3D printer? If you have, you know how frustrating and scary it can be. Thermal runaway is a condition where the temperature of the hotend or the heated bed rises uncontrollably, potentially causing damage to the printer or even starting a fire. I will explain what causes thermal runaway, how to prevent it, and what to do if it happens.

The main cause of thermal runaway is a malfunction in the temperature sensor or the heater. The temperature sensor is a device that measures the temperature of the hotend or the heated bed and sends a signal to the controller board. The controller board then adjusts the power to the heater to maintain the desired temperature. If the temperature sensor fails or becomes loose, it may send a wrong signal to the controller board, causing it to overheat or underheat the heater. Similarly, if the heater fails or becomes loose, it may draw too much or too little power, causing it to overheat or underheat.

To prevent thermal runaway, you should always check your printer for any signs of damage or wear before each print. Make sure that the temperature sensor and the heater are securely attached and that the wires are not frayed or broken. You should also enable thermal runaway protection in your firmware if your printer supports it. Thermal runaway protection is a feature that monitors the temperature of the hotend and the heated bed and shuts off the power if it detects an abnormal change. It’s not always enabled by default, so make sure it is turned on before you start printing.

If you encounter a thermal runaway error during a print, you should immediately turn off your printer and unplug it from the power source. Do not touch any part of the printer until it cools down completely. Then, inspect your printer for any damage or loose connections and fix them if possible. You may need to replace the temperature sensor or the heater if they are faulty. You should also update your firmware to the latest version and enable thermal runaway protection if you haven’t done so already.

Have you ever started a 3d print, only to come back a few hours later to find that your nozzle in midair with nothing being extruded from it? Then you fix the clog, only to have the same thing happen? If so, you might have encountered heat creep. This is when heat from the hot end travels up the filament and causes it to melt before it reaches the nozzle. This can result in clogs, underextrusion, and poor print quality.

How can you recognize heat creep? Some symptoms include:

  • Filament grinding or slipping in the extruder
  • Filament oozing out of the nozzle when not printing
  • Filament snapping or breaking during printing
  • Inconsistent extrusion or gaps in layers
  • Nozzle jamming or clicking noises

Heat creep can be caused by various factors, such as:

  • Printing at too high temperature
  • Poor cooling of the hot end or heat sink
  • Improper insulation of the hot end
  • Faulty or dirty fans
  • Low-quality or incompatible filament

Fortunately, heat creep can be prevented or fixed with some simple solutions, such as:

  • Lowering the printing temperature to the minimum recommended for your filament
  • Increasing the cooling of the hot end or heat sink with better fans or ducts
  • Adding thermal paste or silicone socks to the hot end to improve insulation
  • Cleaning or replacing the fans regularly to ensure optimal airflow
  • Using high-quality and compatible filament that matches your printer settings

Are you frustrated by Z banding in your 3D prints? Do you want to know what causes this annoying defect and how to fix it? If so, you’ve come to the right place!

Z banding, also known as Z wobble, is a common problem in FDM 3D printing that results in horizontal ridges or bulges on the sides of your printed objects. It can ruin the appearance and accuracy of your prints, and make them weaker and more prone to cracking. In a nutshell, your printer is moving when you don’t expect it to or want it to and you need to figure out why.

Z banding is caused by several factors that affect the movement of the Z axis, which controls the vertical position of the print head. Some of these factors are:

  • Misaligned or bent Z axis rods or lead screws
  • Loose or worn out couplers, bearings or rails
  • Inconsistent bed temperature or PID settings
  • Microstepping errors in the stepper motor drivers
  • Improper layer height settings

Fortunately, there are some simple ways to prevent or reduce Z banding in your 3D prints. Here are some tips that you can try:

  • Check and adjust the alignment of your Z axis rods or lead screws. Make sure they are parallel to each other and perpendicular to the print bed. Use a spirit level or a digital caliper to measure the distance between them at different points. If they are bent, replace them with new ones.
  • Tighten or replace any loose or worn out parts that connect the Z axis rods or lead screws to the stepper motors, such as couplers, bearings or rails. Make sure they are not too tight or too loose, as this can cause binding or backlash.
  • Enable a consistent bed temperature throughout your print by using PID tuning or setting a fixed temperature in your slicer. Avoid using auto bed leveling sensors that can introduce temperature fluctuations.
  • Use half or full step layer heights that match your Z axis pitch and avoid microstepping errors. For example, if your Z axis pitch is 8 mm and you have a 200 steps per revolution stepper motor, use layer heights that are multiples of 0.04 mm (8 / 200).
  • Stabilize your Z axis rods or lead screws by adding supports or braces at the top and bottom ends. This can prevent them from wobbling or vibrating during printing.