Category: Troubleshooting

3D printer filament is the material that is used to create objects with a 3D printer. There are different types of filament, such as PLA, ABS, PETG, Nylon, and more. Each filament has its own properties, such as strength, flexibility, durability, and temperature resistance. These properties affect how the filament behaves during the printing process and how the final object looks and feels.

One of the challenges of 3D printing is to find the optimal settings for each filament type. Some of the settings that need to be adjusted are print speed, retraction, and temperature. Print speed is how fast the nozzle moves while extruding the filament. Retraction is how much the filament is pulled back into the extruder when the nozzle moves to a different location. Temperature is how hot the nozzle and the heated bed are.

Different filaments require different settings because they have different melting points, viscosity, and shrinkage rates. For example, PLA melts at a lower temperature than ABS, but it also cools down faster and has less warping. Therefore, PLA can be printed at a higher speed and with less retraction than ABS. However, PLA is also more brittle and less resistant to heat than ABS. Therefore, PLA objects may not be suitable for outdoor or high-temperature applications.

To find the best settings for each filament type, it is recommended to do some test prints with different parameters and compare the results. Test prints can be simple shapes, such as cubes or cylinders, that can measure the accuracy, quality, and strength of the print. By testing different print speeds, retractions, and temperatures, one can find the optimal combination that produces the best print quality and performance for each filament type.

3D printer stringing is a common problem that many beginners face when they start 3D printing. Stringing is when thin strands of filament are left behind on the print, creating a messy and unprofessional look. Stringing can ruin the appearance and functionality of your 3D printed objects, so it’s important to know how to prevent it and fix it.

There are several factors that can cause 3D printer stringing, but the main ones are:

  • Temperature: If the nozzle temperature is too high, the filament will melt too much and become more fluid. This makes it easier for the filament to ooze out of the nozzle when it’s not supposed to, creating strings. To avoid this, you should lower the nozzle temperature until you find the optimal setting for your filament type and brand. You can also use a cooling fan to cool down the filament as soon as it leaves the nozzle, reducing its viscosity and stringing tendency.
  • Retraction: Retraction is when the extruder pulls back the filament slightly before moving to a different part of the print. This prevents the filament from leaking out of the nozzle during travel moves, which can cause stringing. To enable retraction, you need to adjust the retraction distance and speed settings in your slicer software. The retraction distance is how much filament is pulled back, and the retraction speed is how fast it is pulled back. The optimal values depend on your printer model, extruder type, and filament material, but you can start with a retraction distance of 2-5 mm and a retraction speed of 40-60 mm/s and tweak them as needed.
  • Travel speed: Travel speed is how fast the nozzle moves from one point to another when it’s not printing. If the travel speed is too low, the filament will have more time to ooze out of the nozzle and create strings. To avoid this, you should increase the travel speed as much as possible without compromising the print quality. A good starting point is 150-200 mm/s, but you can experiment with different values until you find the best one for your printer and filament.
  • Z-hop: Z-hop is when the nozzle lifts up slightly before moving to a different part of the print. This creates a small gap between the nozzle and the print surface, which can prevent the nozzle from dragging across the print and leaving strings behind. To enable Z-hop, you need to adjust the Z-hop height setting in your slicer software. The Z-hop height is how much the nozzle lifts up, and it should be just enough to clear the print surface without causing too much vibration or noise. A typical value is 0.1-0.2 mm, but you can fine-tune it as needed.

I’m always fascinated with the medical industry. It amazes me how far we’ve come from leeches and bloodletting to the technology that is available today. Sickness and disease that would have been life ending in the past are able to be overcome and healed. Recently, 3d printing has taken the medical industry to the next level. Take a look.

  • Prosthetics and human organs: 3D printing can create customized and functional prosthetics for people who have lost their limbs or other body parts. For example, a company called Open Bionics makes 3D printed bionic arms that are affordable and stylish. 3D printing can also create artificial organs that mimic the structure and function of natural ones. For example, researchers have 3D printed a mini heart with human cells that can beat and contract.
  • Biomedical implants: 3D printing can create implants that are tailored to the patient’s anatomy and needs. For example, 3D printing can create dental crowns, bridges, and implants that fit perfectly and are durable. 3D printing can also create metal implants for bones, joints, and spine that are biocompatible and reduce the risk of infection.
  • Pharmaceuticals: 3D printing can create personalized drugs that have the optimal dosage, shape, and release rate for each patient. For example, a company called FabRx makes 3D printed pills that can contain multiple drugs in one tablet. 3D printing can also create complex drug delivery systems that can target specific tissues or organs.

The speed of the first layer is important because it determines how well the filament sticks to the bed and how smooth the surface of your print will be. However, setting the speed too high can cause some problems that can affect the quality and durability of your print. Today, I will explain what happens if your speed is set too high for the first layer, and how to fix it.

Some symptoms of a too high speed for the first layer are:

  • Poor adhesion: The filament might not stick well to the bed, resulting in warping, curling, or detachment of the print.
  • Rough surface: The filament might not have enough time to melt and spread evenly on the bed, resulting in a rough and uneven surface.
  • Under-extrusion: The filament might not flow fast enough to keep up with the nozzle movement, resulting in gaps or holes in the print.
  • Overheating: The nozzle might get too hot due to the fast movement, resulting in clogging, stringing, or oozing of the filament.

Some ways to remedy a too high speed for the first layer are:

  • Lower the speed: The most obvious solution is to lower the speed of the first layer, either by adjusting the settings in your slicer software or by using the knob on your printer. A good rule of thumb is to set the speed to 50% or less of your normal printing speed for the first layer.
  • Increase the temperature: Another way to improve the adhesion and flow of the filament is to increase the temperature of the nozzle and/or the bed. This will help the filament melt faster and stick better to the bed. However, be careful not to set the temperature too high, as this can cause other problems such as burning or warping of the filament.
  • Level the bed: A properly leveled bed is essential for a good first layer. If your bed is too high or too low, it can affect how well the filament sticks to it and how smooth the surface will be. You can use a piece of paper or a feeler gauge to check the distance between the nozzle and the bed at different points, and adjust it accordingly.
  • Calibrate the extruder: Another factor that can affect the speed of the first layer is how much filament is extruded by your printer. If your extruder is under-extruding or over-extruding, it can cause gaps or blobs in your print. You can calibrate your extruder by measuring how much filament is fed by your printer when you command it to extrude a certain length, and adjusting the steps per millimeter (E-steps) value in your firmware or slicer software.

Every once in a while, I come across a really cool application for 3d printing. In 2015, the ancient city of Palmyra in Syria suffered significant damage at the hands of ISIS terrorists, including the destruction of the iconic Arch of Triumph. Subsequently, the Institute for Digital Archaeology (IDA), in collaboration with UNESCO, used 3D technology to create a scale replica of the arch. They utilized existing 3D models, photographs, and the detailed documentation available from before the destruction. A 20-foot-tall replica of the arch was 3D printed in sections using a stone-like material, and these sections were assembled to create a near-identical replica. This replica was then displayed in various locations around the world, including London and New York City, as a symbol of defiance and resilience, and to promote the importance of preserving cultural heritage.

If you love fishing, DIY, and 3d printing, why not combine all three and make some fishing lures? Here’s how:

  1. Find or design a 3D model of a fishing lure. You can use online platforms like Thingiverse or Cults to browse thousands of free models, or you can use software like Tinkercad or Fusion 360 to create your own. Make sure the model is suitable for 3D printing and has a hole for attaching the hook.
  2. Choose a suitable filament for your 3D printer. You want a filament that is strong, durable and water-resistant. PLA is a common choice, but you can also use PETG, ABS or Nylon. You can also experiment with different colors and effects, such as glow-in-the-dark or metallic filaments.
  3. Slice the model using a slicer software like Cura or PrusaSlicer. Adjust the settings according to your printer and filament. You may want to increase the infill percentage and the number of perimeters to make the lure more solid and heavy. You can also add supports if needed, but try to avoid them as much as possible to reduce post-processing.
  4. Print the lure using your 3D printer. Make sure the bed is level and the nozzle is clean. Watch the first few layers to ensure good adhesion and quality. Depending on the size and complexity of the model, the printing time may vary from a few minutes to a few hours.
  5. Remove the lure from the printer and remove any supports or brims. Use a knife, pliers or sandpaper to clean up any rough edges or defects. You can also use paint, markers or stickers to add more details and colors to your lure.
  6. Attach a hook to your lure using a split ring or a swivel. You can use any type of hook that matches the size and shape of your lure, such as treble hooks, single hooks or jig hooks. You can also add other accessories like beads, feathers or eyes to make your lure more attractive.
  7. Test your lure in the water and enjoy fishing! You can try different lures for different fish species, water conditions and seasons. You can also tweak your designs and settings to improve your results.

Lithopanes are 3D printed objects that reveal an image when backlit. They are a great way to create personalized gifts, decorations, or art pieces. However, 3D printing a lithopane is not as simple as uploading an image and hitting print. There are some considerations to take into account to ensure a successful result.

  • Choosing the right image: Not all images are suitable for lithopanes. Ideally, you want an image that has good contrast, sharp details, and no large dark areas. You also want to avoid images that have too many colors or gradients, as they will not translate well to the grayscale of the lithopane.
  • Preparing the image: Before you can 3D print your image, you need to convert it into a lithopane model. There are several online tools that can help you with this, such as Lithophane Maker or 3DP Rocks. These tools allow you to adjust the size, shape, thickness, and curvature of your lithopane, as well as apply some filters and effects to enhance the image quality.
  • Choosing the right material: The most common material for 3D printing lithopanes is PLA, as it is easy to print, biodegradable, and comes in various colors. However, you can also experiment with other materials, such as PETG, ABS, or even wood filament. The main thing to consider is the translucency of the material, as you want enough light to pass through the lithopane without compromising the image clarity.
  • Choosing the right settings: The settings for 3D printing a lithopane depend on your printer, material, and model. However, some general guidelines are to use a high resolution (0.1 mm layer height or lower), a low infill (10% or less), and a slow speed (30 mm/s or lower). You also want to avoid using supports, rafts, or brims, as they can damage the surface of the lithopane.
  • Print orientation: I have had the best success with lithopanes when I orient them vertically. This does pose a few challenges, specifically the small area that is actually attached to the printer bed, but a brim or a raft can help with this.
  • Finishing the lithopane: Once your lithopane is printed, you can remove it from the bed and trim any excess material. You can also sand or polish the surface to smooth out any imperfections. Finally, you need to find a suitable light source to display your lithopane. You can use a LED lamp, a candle, or even a smartphone flashlight. The important thing is to place the light behind the lithopane and adjust the distance and angle until you get the best effect.

If you are looking for a way to improve the quality of your top layers in 3D printing, you might want to try using monotonic top layers. Monotonic top layers are a type of pattern that ensures that the extrusion lines are always printed in the same direction, without crossing each other in the same layer.

This creates a smoother and more consistent surface, as the light reflects off the model in a uniform way. Monotonic top layers can also reduce the amount of material and time needed to print, as they avoid unnecessary travel moves and retractions.

Monotonic top layers are available in some slicers, such as PrusaSlicer, Orca, and Cura. To enable them, you need to select the monotonic top/bottom order option in the infill settings. You can also choose the direction of the extrusion lines, such as horizontal, vertical, diagonal or aligned with the model.

Monotonic top layers work best with thin layer heights and low infill densities, as they provide enough support for the top surface without creating gaps or bumps. You can also combine them with other features, such as ironing or adaptive cubic infill, to further enhance the appearance and strength of your top layers.

If you own a 3D printer, you may have encountered a frustrating problem: the bed level undoing itself. This can result in poor print quality, wasted filament, and even damage to your printer.

One possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is thermal expansion. As the printer heats up, the metal parts expand and contract, which can affect the alignment of the bed and the nozzle. To prevent this, you should make sure that your printer is in a stable environment, with minimal temperature fluctuations. Bring your bed to the proper temperature and let it heatsoak for a few minutes.

There are screws that go through the center of the bedsprings with nuts at the end of them. Check the screws and springs that hold the bed in place, and tighten them if they are loose.

Another possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is vibration. As the printer moves, it can generate vibrations that can loosen the screws and springs that hold the bed in place. To prevent this, you should make sure that your printer is on a solid and level surface, and that it is not exposed to external sources of vibration, such as fans or speakers. You should also check the belts and pulleys that drive the printer’s motion, and adjust them if they are too loose or too tight.

A third possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is wear and tear. Over time, the parts of your printer can wear out or break, which can affect the bed level. For example, the springs that hold the bed in place can lose their tension, or the bearings that guide the motion of the printer can wear out. To prevent this, you should regularly inspect your printer for signs of damage or wear, and replace any parts that are faulty or worn out.

A simple solution that many people opt for is to change out their springs for better quality springs or silicone spacers. They are relatively inexpensive and provide much better support than most factory installed springs.

One last thing to check is the z axis limit switch(es). If the machine homes too high above the build plate, there may not be enough tension on the springs to keep it in place properly. Resetting the limit switch(es) can help by applying tension on the springs and stabilizing the bed height.