Category: Troubleshooting

If you are a 3D printing enthusiast, you may have encountered the frustrating problem of a clogged nozzle. This can happen when the filament gets stuck or melted inside the nozzle, preventing the extruder from pushing out more material. A clogged nozzle can ruin your print and waste your time and filament.

But what if the problem is not really a clogged nozzle, but something else? I will explain how improper tension on the extruder can masquerade as a clogged nozzle, and how to fix it.

The extruder is the part of the 3D printer that feeds the filament into the hot end, where it is melted and extruded through the nozzle. The extruder has a spring-loaded mechanism that applies pressure on the filament, pushing it against a drive gear or a hobbed bolt. This pressure is called tension, and it is essential for the extruder to work properly.

If the tension is too low, the drive gear or the hobbed bolt may slip on the filament, causing under-extrusion or skipping steps. This can result in gaps, holes, or weak layers in your print. If the tension is too high, the drive gear or the hobbed bolt may dig into the filament, causing over-extrusion or grinding. This can result in blobs, strings, or jams in your print.

Both under-extrusion and over-extrusion can look like a clogged nozzle, because they affect the amount and quality of material that comes out of the nozzle. However, a clogged nozzle is usually caused by a different issue, such as a dirty nozzle, a partial blockage, or a heat creep.

So how can you tell if your problem is really a clogged nozzle, or an improper tension on the extruder? Here are some tips:

  • Check your filament. If you see signs of grinding or slipping on the filament, such as flat spots, gouges, or dust, then your tension is likely too high or too low.
  • Check your extruder. If you hear clicking or popping noises from the extruder, then your tension is likely too high or too low.
  • Check your nozzle. If you see material oozing out of the nozzle when it is not printing, then your tension is likely too high. If you see no material coming out of the nozzle when it is printing, then your tension is likely too low.
  • Do a cold pull. A cold pull is a technique to clean your nozzle by heating it up, inserting a piece of filament, letting it cool down, and then pulling it out with force. If you see a clean tip on the filament after doing a cold pull, then your nozzle is not clogged.
  • Adjust your tension. Depending on your extruder model, you may have a screw, a knob, or a lever to adjust the tension on the filament. You want to find a balance between too much and too little pressure. A good rule of thumb is to make sure that the drive gear or the hobbed bolt leaves slight marks on the filament, but not deep enough to damage it.

What to Check for on Your 3D Printer Nozzle

The first thing you should do is inspect your nozzle visually. Look for any signs of damage, such as cracks, dents, or scratches. If you see any, you should replace your nozzle.

Next, you should check if your nozzle is clean and free of any debris or filament residue. To clean your nozzle, you can use a brass brush or a needle to gently remove any stuck material. You can also heat up your nozzle and wipe it.

Finally, you should check if your nozzle is aligned with your print bed.

How to Maintain Your 3D Printer Nozzle

To keep your nozzle in good condition, you should perform some regular maintenance tasks. Here are some tips:

  • Clean your nozzle after every print or before changing filaments. This will prevent clogging and filament jams.
  • Use high-quality filaments that are compatible with your nozzle size and material type. Avoid using abrasive filaments, such as metal-filled or glow-in-the-dark ones, unless you have a hardened steel nozzle.
  • Store your filaments in a dry and cool place. Moisture and heat can degrade your filaments and cause extrusion issues.
  • Replace your nozzle when it wears out or gets damaged. A worn-out nozzle can have a larger or irregular diameter, which can affect the accuracy and quality of your prints.

How to Calibrate Your 3D Printer Nozzle

To get the best results from your 3D printer, you should calibrate your nozzle regularly. Calibration involves setting the correct nozzle temperature, flow rate, and retraction settings for your filament type and print quality. Here are some steps:

  • Find the recommended temperature range for your filament type and brand. You can usually find this information on the filament spool or the manufacturer’s website.
  • Heat up your nozzle to the lowest temperature in the range and extrude some filament. Observe how the filament comes out of the nozzle. It should be smooth and consistent, without any bubbles, curls, or strings.
  • Increase the temperature by 5°C increments and repeat the extrusion test until you find the optimal temperature for your filament. The optimal temperature is the one that gives you the best extrusion quality without causing overheating or oozing.
  • Find the recommended flow rate for your filament type and brand. You can usually find this information on the filament spool or the manufacturer’s website.
  • Print a calibration cube or a single-wall vase with 100% infill and no top or bottom layers. Measure the wall thickness with a caliper and compare it to the expected value (usually 0.4 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle).
  • Adjust the flow rate in your slicer software until the wall thickness matches the expected value.
  • Find the recommended retraction settings for your filament type and brand.
  • Print a retraction test model that has multiple towers with gaps between them. Observe how much stringing occurs between the towers.
  • Adjust the retraction distance and speed in your slicer software until you minimize stringing without causing under-extrusion or blobs.

Sometimes the extruder gear is clicking or skipping. This can affect the quality of your prints and cause under-extrusion, blobs, or gaps in the layers. This can be difficult to diagnose because the root cause is often at the other side of the printer.

The extruder gear is the part that pushes the filament into the hot end, where it is melted and deposited onto the build plate. The extruder gear has teeth that grip the filament and rotate to feed it. Sometimes, the extruder gear can click or skip, meaning that it slips on the filament and fails to push it forward. This can happen for several reasons, such as:

  • The nozzle is too close to the build plate, causing too much back pressure and preventing the filament from flowing out.
  • The nozzle is clogged or partially blocked by dirt, dust, or debris, reducing the flow of filament.
  • The nozzle temperature is too low, making the filament too viscous and hard to extrude.
  • The filament diameter is inconsistent or out of spec, causing variations in the extrusion rate and pressure.
  • The filament is tangled, kinked, or twisted, creating friction and resistance in the feed path.
  • The extruder tension is too high or too low, making the extruder gear either slip on the filament or crush it.

To fix the extruder gear clicking problem, you need to identify the root cause and address it accordingly. Here are some possible solutions:

  • Adjust the nozzle height and level the build plate, making sure there is enough gap between them for the filament to flow out smoothly.
  • Clean the nozzle and check for any clogs or blockages. You can use a needle or a wire to poke through the nozzle hole or perform a cold pull to remove any stuck material.
  • Increase the nozzle temperature slightly and see if it improves the extrusion. You can also try a different filament material or brand that has a lower melting point or better flow characteristics.
  • Measure the filament diameter with a caliper and make sure it is within the tolerance range of your printer. You can also adjust the extrusion multiplier in your slicer software to compensate for any variations in the filament diameter.
  • Check the filament spool and make sure it is not tangled, kinked, or twisted. You can also use a filament guide or a spool holder to reduce any friction or resistance in the feed path.
  • Adjust the extruder tension and make sure it is not too tight or too loose. You can use a screwdriver to turn the tension knob or spring on your extruder assembly. You want to find a balance where the extruder gear grips the filament firmly but not too hard.

One of the common problems that 3D printer users face is under-extrusion, which means that not enough filament is coming out of the nozzle. This can result in poor print quality, gaps, and weak layers. One of the possible causes of under-extrusion is that the filament is not heated up to its melting point, which means that it cannot flow smoothly through the nozzle.

How can you tell if your filament is not hot enough? Here are some signs to look out for:

  • The filament is curling or bending as it comes out of the nozzle, instead of forming a straight line.
  • The filament is making a clicking or grinding noise as it is pushed through the extruder.
  • The filament is brittle and breaks easily when you bend it.
  • The print surface is rough and uneven, with blobs and strings.
  • The print layers are not adhering well to each other, and the print is weak and fragile.

If you notice any of these signs, you may need to increase the temperature of your nozzle. You can do this by adjusting the settings on your 3D printer’s control panel, or by using a slicer software to set the temperature for each layer. The optimal temperature for your filament depends on the type and brand of filament you are using, as well as the ambient temperature and humidity. You can check the recommended temperature range on the filament spool or on the manufacturer’s website.

However, be careful not to overheat your filament, as this can also cause problems such as clogging, oozing, and burning. You can tell if your filament is too hot if:

  • The filament is dripping or leaking from the nozzle when it is not printing.
  • The filament is bubbling or smoking as it comes out of the nozzle.
  • The filament is discolored or charred.
  • The print surface is glossy and smooth, with no details or texture.
  • The print layers are sagging or warping, and the print is deformed.

If you notice any of these signs, you may need to lower the temperature of your nozzle. You can do this by following the same steps as above, but in reverse.

You can also use a temperature tower test to calibrate your nozzle temperature for different filaments. A temperature tower is a 3D model that prints at different temperatures along its height, so you can compare the results and choose the best one. You can find many temperature tower models online, or create your own using a slicer software.

If you are looking for ways to improve the print quality and speed of your 3D printer, you may want to tune two important settings: pressure advance and input shaping. In this blog post, I will explain what these settings do, how to tune them, and what to consider when choosing the appropriate filament.

Pressure advance is a feature that compensates for the elasticity of the filament and the extruder. When the extruder moves at a constant speed, the filament behaves like a spring and creates a lag between the extruder and the nozzle. This lag causes over-extrusion at the start of a line and under-extrusion at the end of a line. To avoid this, pressure advance adjusts the extruder speed according to the acceleration and deceleration of the print head. This way, the pressure in the nozzle is kept constant and the extrusion is consistent.

Input shaping is a feature that compensates for the vibrations of the printer frame and the print head. When the print head changes direction abruptly, it creates ringing artifacts on the print surface. These artifacts reduce the accuracy and aesthetics of the print. To avoid this, input shaping filters out the frequencies that cause vibrations and smooths out the motion of the print head. This way, the ringing artifacts are minimized and the print quality is improved.

To tune pressure advance and input shaping, you will need to print some test patterns and measure some parameters. There are different methods and tools for doing this, but one of the easiest and most popular ones is to use Klipper firmware and its built-in calibration tools. Klipper is an open-source firmware that runs on a Raspberry Pi and communicates with your printer via USB. It has many advanced features and allows you to fine-tune your printer settings with ease.

To use Klipper, you will need to install it on your Raspberry Pi and flash your printer board with a bootloader. Then, you will need to create a configuration file for your printer and upload it to Klipper. You can find detailed instructions on how to do this on Klipper’s website: https://www.klipper3d.org/

Once you have Klipper up and running, you can use its web interface or terminal commands to perform pressure advance and input shaping calibration. You can find detailed instructions on how to do this on Klipper’s documentation: https://www.klipper3d.org/Pressure_Advance.html and https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html

One thing to consider when tuning pressure advance and input shaping is the type of filament you are using. Different filaments have different properties that affect their elasticity and viscosity. For example, flexible filaments are more elastic than rigid filaments, and high-temperature filaments are more viscous than low-temperature filaments. These factors affect how much pressure advance and input shaping you need to apply. Therefore, you should tune these settings for each filament type you use.

How to recognize when 3D printer temperature is too low?

The temperature of the nozzle is crucial for the quality and strength of the printed object. If the temperature is too high, the filament may burn, clog the nozzle, or ooze excessively. If the temperature is too low, the filament may not melt properly, resulting in poor adhesion, under-extrusion, or warping.

So how can you tell if your 3D printer temperature is too low? Here are some signs to look out for:

  • The filament does not stick to the build plate or to the previous layers. This can cause gaps, holes, or cracks in the printed object.
  • The filament curls up or bends at the tip of the nozzle. This can cause stringing, blobs, or zits on the surface of the printed object.
  • The filament snaps or breaks easily. This can cause jams, clogs, or extruder skipping.
  • The printed object has a rough or matte surface. This can reduce the aesthetic appeal and smoothness of the printed object.

If you notice any of these signs, you may need to increase your 3D printer temperature by a few degrees and try again. You can also use a temperature tower test to find the optimal temperature range for your filament and printer model. A temperature tower is a simple model that prints at different temperatures along its height, allowing you to compare the results and choose the best one.

Different filaments have different melting points and require different temperatures. For example, PLA typically prints well at around 200°C, while ABS needs around 230°C. You should always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and adjust accordingly based on your printer’s performance and environment.

Z offset is a term that refers to the distance between the nozzle of your 3D printer and the print bed. It is an important parameter that affects the quality and adhesion of your prints. If the Z offset is too high, the nozzle will be too far from the bed and the first layer will not stick well. If the Z offset is too low, the nozzle will be too close to the bed and may scratch it or cause extrusion problems.

The first step is to measure your current Z offset. You can do this by printing a test pattern, such as a single-layer square or circle, and observing how it looks on the bed. Ideally, you want the first layer to be slightly squished and have a smooth surface. If the first layer is too thin or has gaps, your Z offset is too high. If the first layer is too thick or has blobs, your Z offset is too low.

To adjust your Z offset, you need to access your printer’s firmware settings. Depending on your printer model and software, you may have different ways to do this. Some printers have a menu option that allows you to change the Z offset directly. Others require you to use a terminal program or a G-code command to modify the Z offset value. You can find more information about your specific printer in its manual or online forums.

Once you have access to your Z offset setting, you can increase or decrease it by small increments, such as 0.01 mm or 0.05 mm. The direction of the adjustment depends on whether you need to raise or lower your nozzle. For example, if your Z offset is too high, you need to lower your nozzle by decreasing the Z offset value. If your Z offset is too low, you need to raise your nozzle by increasing the Z offset value.

After each adjustment, you should print another test pattern and check the first layer quality. Repeat this process until you find the optimal Z offset for your printer and filament. You may need to fine-tune your Z offset for different materials or environmental conditions, as they can affect the extrusion and adhesion of your prints.

Continuing on with the theme of “stuff I should have known better but did anyways.”

I was diagnosing a problem a few months ago and decided that I needed to remove my extruder and disassemble it. I sat there, next to my printer, trying to find some space on my tabletop among all of my other printer accessories.

I checked everything. Motor gear? Good to go. Extruder gears? They are metal, but let’s check them anyways. They are good to go. Motor? It has the right voltage and it’s turning. No clog on the hotend. It’s good to go.

I decided to come back to it later.

When I came back to it, I still couldn’t figure it out so I contacted the manufacturer. They told me a few things to look for. I checked them but my extruder still wasn’t gripping the filament properly. I decided to put one of my old extruders back on (good thing I save them for just such a scenario).

When I pulled the old extruder out of my drawer and I happened to look down on the floor. There I saw it. A bearing. I knew immediately that this was the cause of everything. I must have dropped it when I disassembled my extruder and I didn’t notice. It turned out to be the bearing that holds the motor gear against the motor. When I didn’t notice that it was missing the filament was able to push the gears away, causing it not to grip properly. As soon as I put it back in everything started working again.

Save yourself some trouble. Disassemble in a clean area (not on a countertop, I have another story about a sink drain). Place all of your parts on a clean, light-colored cloth so that you don’t lose parts and they don’t go rolling off.

One of the cool things about being alive in the internet era is that it is very easy to learn from the mistakes of others without having to go through the “School of Hard Knocks” for everything. 3d printing is no exception. In this case, you get to learn from me what I should have learned from others.

A couple of weeks ago one of my FDM printers stopped working. I looked at it quickly and saw that the nozzle was clogged. I attempted to clear the clog, and when it didn’t start working properly I decided to put it into the “I’ll get to it later” category.

This weekend was “later” and I needed the printer back online, so I decided it was time.

I realized that there were two issues. The extruder wasn’t feeding and the nozzle was clogged. Knowing that these issues are sometimes related, I separated the bowden tube from the hotend to help me diagnose which end was causing the problem. It seemed to me that there was an issue on both ends. The extruder wasn’t feeding correctly and the nozzle was clogged. Great. Seemed like heat creep to me so I started investigating into sources for heat. My fans are old, maybe one of them is clogged or not working right. Fans cleaned, no clogs found. Next, I sorted out the nozzle. I ended up replacing it. It worked!

I tried a test print. My joy was short-lived when it quickly clogged up again.

I decided to turn towards the extruder. I took it apart. Everything seemed normal. The motor gear was a little worn, but still in pretty good shape. Back to the hotend.

I pulled the heat block off and disassembled the hotend components. I quickly discovered that the new nozzle that I had put on the hotend had a shorter thread than my last one. The impact of this being that there was a gap between the nozzle and the heat break inside of the heat block. This meant that when the filament heated up it would be able to creep out, and that’s exactly what it did. Sigh. I realized what I had done. I had replaced the correct component the first time (the nozzle), but I had replaced it and caused another problem, and now my entire hotend has melted black filament on it.

Fortunately, I keep a few spare components on hand. I had a spare heat block, heat break, and nozzle. I put them on, making sure to properly hot-tighten the nozzle this time, and I was back in business.

Double check everything. Take your time. Make sure that you put the right components on. Make sure that you are solving the right problem.

Has your nozzle ever dragged across the top surface of your 3d printed part and given you those little valleys? This is often due to a simple but common problem: a poorly leveled bed.

By leveling your bed correctly, you will not only save time and money on wasted filament and failed prints, but also improve the quality and accuracy of your prints. You will be able to print smoother surfaces, sharper details, and more complex shapes without any hassle.

To level your bed properly, you will need a sheet of paper, a ruler, and a screwdriver. Follow these simple steps to get started:

  • Turn on your 3D printer and heat up the bed and the nozzle to the temperature you normally use for printing.
  • Place the sheet of paper on one corner of the bed and move the nozzle over it.
  • Adjust the height of the bed using the screwdriver until you feel a slight resistance when you slide the paper under the nozzle. If your bed is leveled with thumbscrews, obviously use those instead.
  • Repeat this process for the other three corners of the bed, making sure that the paper has the same resistance at each point.
  • Check the levelness of the bed by moving the nozzle across the entire surface and sliding the paper under it. If you feel any difference in resistance, adjust the corresponding corner until it is even.
  • Measure the distance between the nozzle and the bed using the ruler. It should be around 0.1 mm for most printers and filaments. If it is too high or too low, adjust the height of the entire bed using the screws on the sides or front of the printer.
  • Once you have leveled your bed properly, you are ready to print. Enjoy your flawless prints!