Category: Troubleshooting

Stringing is a common problem in 3D printing, especially with flexible materials like PETG. It occurs when thin strands of filament ooze from the nozzle as it moves between two points, creating unwanted hairs on your print. Stringing can ruin the appearance and quality of your print, so it’s important to know how to prevent it.

One of the main causes of stringing is wet filament. Filament can absorb moisture from the air over time, which can affect its printing properties. When wet filament is heated in the nozzle, it can create steam that pushes out excess filament, resulting in stringing. Wet filament can also cause popping noises, bubbles, and poor layer adhesion.

Another common cause of stringing is retraction settings. Retraction is a feature that pulls back the filament into the nozzle when it’s not extruding, to reduce the pressure and prevent oozing. Retraction settings include retraction distance, which is how much filament is retracted, and retraction speed, which is how fast the filament is retracted.

So how can you tell if your stringing is caused by wet filament or retraction settings? Here are some tips:

  • Check your filament spool for signs of moisture, such as condensation. If you see any, your filament is likely wet and needs to be dried before printing. You can use a filament dryer, an oven, or a dehumidifier to dry your filament.
  • Print a temperature tower test to find the optimal nozzle temperature for your filament. Too high or too low temperature can cause stringing, so you want to find the right balance between melting and flowing. A temperature tower test prints a series of blocks at different temperatures, and you can choose the one with the best quality.
  • Print a retraction test to find the optimal retraction settings for your printer and filament. Retraction settings can vary depending on your extruder type (direct-drive or Bowden), nozzle size, and filament type. A retraction test prints a series of pillars with gaps between them, and you can adjust the retraction distance and speed until you eliminate stringing.
  • Experiment with different travel speeds and minimum travel distances. Travel speed is how fast the nozzle moves between gaps when it’s not extruding, and minimum travel distance is how far the nozzle has to move before retraction is enabled. Increasing both of these settings can reduce stringing by minimizing oozing and enabling more retraction.

Have you ever started a 3d print, only to come back a few hours later to find that your nozzle in midair with nothing being extruded from it? Then you fix the clog, only to have the same thing happen? If so, you might have encountered heat creep. This is when heat from the hot end travels up the filament and causes it to melt before it reaches the nozzle. This can result in clogs, underextrusion, and poor print quality.

How can you recognize heat creep? Some symptoms include:

  • Filament grinding or slipping in the extruder
  • Filament oozing out of the nozzle when not printing
  • Filament snapping or breaking during printing
  • Inconsistent extrusion or gaps in layers
  • Nozzle jamming or clicking noises

Heat creep can be caused by various factors, such as:

  • Printing at too high temperature
  • Poor cooling of the hot end or heat sink
  • Improper insulation of the hot end
  • Faulty or dirty fans
  • Low-quality or incompatible filament

Fortunately, heat creep can be prevented or fixed with some simple solutions, such as:

  • Lowering the printing temperature to the minimum recommended for your filament
  • Increasing the cooling of the hot end or heat sink with better fans or ducts
  • Adding thermal paste or silicone socks to the hot end to improve insulation
  • Cleaning or replacing the fans regularly to ensure optimal airflow
  • Using high-quality and compatible filament that matches your printer settings

Are you frustrated by Z banding in your 3D prints? Do you want to know what causes this annoying defect and how to fix it? If so, you’ve come to the right place!

Z banding, also known as Z wobble, is a common problem in FDM 3D printing that results in horizontal ridges or bulges on the sides of your printed objects. It can ruin the appearance and accuracy of your prints, and make them weaker and more prone to cracking. In a nutshell, your printer is moving when you don’t expect it to or want it to and you need to figure out why.

Z banding is caused by several factors that affect the movement of the Z axis, which controls the vertical position of the print head. Some of these factors are:

  • Misaligned or bent Z axis rods or lead screws
  • Loose or worn out couplers, bearings or rails
  • Inconsistent bed temperature or PID settings
  • Microstepping errors in the stepper motor drivers
  • Improper layer height settings

Fortunately, there are some simple ways to prevent or reduce Z banding in your 3D prints. Here are some tips that you can try:

  • Check and adjust the alignment of your Z axis rods or lead screws. Make sure they are parallel to each other and perpendicular to the print bed. Use a spirit level or a digital caliper to measure the distance between them at different points. If they are bent, replace them with new ones.
  • Tighten or replace any loose or worn out parts that connect the Z axis rods or lead screws to the stepper motors, such as couplers, bearings or rails. Make sure they are not too tight or too loose, as this can cause binding or backlash.
  • Enable a consistent bed temperature throughout your print by using PID tuning or setting a fixed temperature in your slicer. Avoid using auto bed leveling sensors that can introduce temperature fluctuations.
  • Use half or full step layer heights that match your Z axis pitch and avoid microstepping errors. For example, if your Z axis pitch is 8 mm and you have a 200 steps per revolution stepper motor, use layer heights that are multiples of 0.04 mm (8 / 200).
  • Stabilize your Z axis rods or lead screws by adding supports or braces at the top and bottom ends. This can prevent them from wobbling or vibrating during printing.

It never fails. It’s always the simple things that keep us humble.

I like to tinker, to optimize, and to get the best parts that I can out of my 3d printers. In doing so, I’m always upgrading, experimenting, and messing with settings.

At the end of the day, though, it’s important for me to remember that I’m just heating up plastic and squeezing it through a nozzle and that there are some fundamental things that need to be in place for that to happen. Sometimes, I lose track of that fundamental concept.

I upgraded my extruder a little while back. A better extruder means better parts, right? Well, that was true, for a little while. Over the weekend my 3d printer stopped extruding filament. I ended up thinking it was a clogged nozzle and completely took apart the hotend to find out what the problem was. It turned out to be that there was no problem…at that end.

I turned back to the extruder and took a closer look. After taking it apart and putting it back together about 600 times, it seemed like, I finally realized that the gears weren’t meshing properly. When I upgraded my extruder, I had aligned the gears close enough that they functioned properly at first. But after a while, the misalignment had caused my plastic gear to become worn and eventually stop extruding. New plastic gear ordered and old extruder put on the printer while I wait for the gear.

Back to basics. If you want to extrude something, your gears have to mesh well.

Getting the print to stick to the bed is a common challenge for 3D printer users. If the print does not adhere well, it can warp, curl, or detach during printing. To avoid this, many users apply some adhesive to the bed before printing. But what kind of adhesive should you use? And how do you apply it correctly? Here are some of the most popular adhesives for 3D printing and their pros and cons.

A glue stick is a cheap and easy option that works for most filaments and beds. You just need to apply a thin layer of glue stick to the bed in a circular motion. Glue stick provides good adhesion and can be removed with water or alcohol. However, glue stick can leave a residue on the print, affect its appearance or quality, and dry out over time.

Hairspray is a spray-on product that contains polymers that bond to the bed and the filament when heated. Hairspray works for PLA and ABS filaments and can be used on glass, metal, or plastic beds. You just need to spray a thin and even layer of hairspray on the bed before heating it up. Hairspray provides strong adhesion and can smooth out minor imperfections on the bed. However, hairspray can be messy, sticky, clog the nozzle or fan of your printer, and be difficult to remove from the bed and the print.

Painter’s tape is a type of masking tape that has a low-tack adhesive that does not leave any residue. Painter’s tape works for PLA and PETG filaments and can be used on glass, metal, or plastic beds. You just need to cut strips of tape and apply them to the bed in parallel lines, overlapping them slightly. Painter’s tape provides decent adhesion and can be removed by peeling it off. However, painter’s tape can wear out quickly, need to be replaced often, and affect the texture and appearance of the bottom layer of your print.

These are some of the most popular adhesives for 3D printing, but there are others. You may also want to try Kapton tape, PEI sheet, Magigoo, BuildTak, or 3DLac. The best adhesive for you may depend on your preference, filament type, bed material, printer settings, and budget. You may also want to experiment with different adhesives and techniques to find what works best for you. The key is to ensure that your print sticks well without causing any damage or difficulty in removal.

If you are new to 3D printing, you might encounter some problems with your prints that can be frustrating and confusing. One of the most common issues is a clogged nozzle, which can affect the quality and accuracy of your prints. In this blog post, I will explain how to diagnose a clogged nozzle and what symptoms to look for on your 3D printed part.

A clogged nozzle is when the filament gets stuck or blocked inside the nozzle, preventing it from extruding properly. This can happen for various reasons, such as using low-quality filament, printing at the wrong temperature, or having dust or debris in the nozzle.

A clogged nozzle can cause several problems with your prints, such as under-extrusion, stringing, blobs, gaps, or layer shifts. These symptoms can ruin your print and waste your time and filament. It is important to diagnose a clogged nozzle as soon as possible and fix it before it gets worse.

The good news is that diagnosing a clogged nozzle is not very difficult. You just need to pay attention to some signs that indicate that something is wrong with your nozzle. Here are some of the most common symptoms of a clogged nozzle:

  • Under-extrusion: This is when the nozzle does not extrude enough filament to fill the gaps between the layers or the perimeters. This results in thin or missing walls, weak infill, or holes in the print.
  • Stringing: This is when the nozzle oozes filament during travel moves, creating thin strings or hairs between different parts of the print. This can make your print look messy and require post-processing to remove them.
  • Blobs: This is when the nozzle extrudes too much filament at certain points, creating bumps or lumps on the surface of the print. This can affect the smoothness and accuracy of your print and make it look unprofessional.
  • Gaps: This is when the nozzle skips or misses some parts of the print, leaving empty spaces or holes in the model. This can compromise the integrity and functionality of your print and make it look incomplete.
  • Layer shifts: This is when the nozzle moves out of alignment during printing, causing the layers to shift or misalign. This can distort the shape and dimensions of your print and make it unusable.

If you notice any of these symptoms on your 3D printed part, check your nozzle for clogging and either fix or replace the nozzle.

Nozzle oozing is caused by several factors, such as incorrect temperature settings, retraction settings, printing speed, and filament type. By understanding these factors and how they affect your print quality, you can adjust your settings and optimize your printing process. You can also use some simple techniques and tools to remove the oozing filament from your nozzle and your print.

  1. Check your temperature settings. The most common cause of nozzle oozing is having a too high temperature for your filament. This makes the filament melt faster than it can be extruded, resulting in excess material that drips from the nozzle. To fix this, lower your nozzle temperature by 5-10 degrees Celsius and see if the oozing stops. You can also use a temperature tower to find the optimal temperature range for your filament.
  2. Check your retraction settings. Retraction prevents the filament from leaking out of the nozzle during travel moves. To fix nozzle oozing, you need to make sure your retraction settings are correct for your printer and filament. The main settings to adjust are retraction distance and retraction speed. The retraction distance is how far the filament is pulled back into the extruder, and the retraction speed is how fast it is pulled back. The optimal values depend on your printer model, extruder type, and filament type, but a good starting point is 2-5 mm for retraction distance and 40-60 mm/s for retraction speed. You can also use a retraction test to fine-tune your settings.
  3. Check your printing speed. Another factor that can cause nozzle oozing is having a too high printing speed for your filament. This makes the extruder push more filament than the nozzle can handle, resulting in excess material that oozes out of the nozzle. To fix this, lower your printing speed by 10-20% and see if the oozing stops. You can also use a speed tower to find the optimal speed range for your filament.
  4. Check your filament type. Different types of filament have different properties and behaviors when heated and extruded. Some filaments are more prone to oozing than others, such as flexible filaments or filaments with additives or fillers. To fix nozzle oozing, you need to choose a filament type that is suitable for your printer and model. You can also use a filament guide to learn more about the characteristics and best practices of different filaments.
  5. Remove the oozing filament from your nozzle and print. If you have already printed a part with horizontal lines or blobs due to nozzle oozing, you can try to remove them using some simple techniques and tools. One technique is to use a heat gun or a hair dryer to heat up the oozing filament and then peel it off with tweezers or a scraper. Another technique is to use sandpaper or a file to smooth out the surface of your print. You can also use acetone or alcohol to dissolve or wipe off the oozing filament from your nozzle and print.

A clogged nozzle is one of the most common problems that can affect your 3D printer. It can cause poor print quality, filament jams, and even damage your printer. I talk a lot about how to fix something after something has gone wrong, but I realized that it would be much better to explain how to avoid having a problem in the first place.

The first step is to choose the right filament for your printer. Different filaments have different melting temperatures, flow rates, and properties. Some filaments, such as ABS, PLA, and PETG, are easy to print with and have low chances of clogging. Other filaments, such as wood, metal, or glow-in-the-dark, have additives that can increase the risk of clogging. If you want to use these filaments, make sure you have a nozzle that can handle them, such as a hardened steel or ruby nozzle.

The second step is to clean your nozzle regularly. You can use a needle or a wire to poke through the nozzle hole and remove any debris or filament residue. You can also use a cold pull technique, which involves heating up the nozzle, inserting a piece of filament, letting it cool down slightly, and then pulling it out with a quick motion. This can help remove any material that is stuck inside the nozzle.

The third step is to calibrate your printer settings. You should check your extrusion multiplier, retraction distance, retraction speed, and temperature settings. These settings affect how much filament is pushed through the nozzle and how fast it cools down. If these settings are too high or too low, they can cause over-extrusion or under-extrusion, which can lead to clogging. You can use a calibration cube or a test print to fine-tune your settings and achieve optimal results.

Ever had a very pronounced Z seam on an otherwise perfect print? The z seam is a visible line or mark on the surface of your print, caused by the nozzle moving to a different layer height.

One way to reduce the effect of the z seam is to use a technique called coasting. Coasting is when you stop extruding filament a little bit before the end of each perimeter, and let the nozzle travel along the path without any material coming out. This way, you avoid creating extra pressure in the nozzle that can cause oozing or blobbing at the end of the perimeter.

Coasting can help you achieve a cleaner and smoother surface on your print, especially on curved or circular shapes. However, coasting also has some drawbacks. For example, coasting can create gaps or under-extrusion in some areas of your print, especially if you use too much coasting distance or if your filament is not consistent in diameter. Coasting can also affect the strength and durability of your print, as it reduces the amount of material that bonds each layer together.

Therefore, coasting is not a magic solution for eliminating the z seam, but rather a trade-off between aesthetics and performance. You need to experiment with different settings and find the optimal balance for your printer, filament, and model. Some factors that can affect your coasting results are:

  • Coasting distance: This is how far the nozzle travels without extruding before reaching the end of the perimeter. A longer coasting distance can reduce the z seam more effectively, but also create more gaps and under-extrusion. A shorter coasting distance can avoid gaps and under-extrusion, but also leave more oozing and blobbing at the end of the perimeter. You need to find a coasting distance that matches your nozzle size, layer height, and extrusion width.
  • Coasting speed: This is how fast the nozzle travels without extruding along the coasting path. A faster coasting speed can reduce the pressure in the nozzle more quickly and prevent oozing or blobbing. However, a faster coasting speed can also create more vibrations and inaccuracies in the nozzle movement, which can affect the quality of your print. A slower coasting speed can avoid vibrations and inaccuracies, but also leave more pressure in the nozzle that can cause oozing or blobbing. You need to find a coasting speed that matches your printing speed and acceleration.
  • Coasting volume: This is how much filament is left in the nozzle after stopping extrusion. A larger coasting volume can reduce the z seam more effectively, as it creates a negative pressure in the nozzle that sucks back any excess material. However, a larger coasting volume can also create more gaps and under-extrusion in some areas of your print, as it reduces the amount of material available for extrusion. A smaller coasting volume can avoid gaps and under-extrusion, but also leave more positive pressure in the nozzle that can cause oozing or blobbing. You need to find a coasting volume that matches your extrusion multiplier and filament diameter.

One of the most common problems that 3D printing enthusiasts face is getting their prints to stick to the bed properly. If the print does not adhere well to the bed, it can warp, curl, or detach during the printing process, resulting in a failed print. This can be frustrating and wasteful, especially if you are printing large or complex models.

So what is the best way to get a 3D print to stick to the bed properly? There is no definitive answer to this question, as different printers, filaments, and settings may require different solutions. However, there are some general tips and tricks that can help you improve your bed adhesion and avoid common issues.

The first thing you need to do is make sure your bed is level and clean. A level bed ensures that the nozzle is at a consistent distance from the bed across the entire print area, which affects how well the first layer sticks. You can use a sheet of paper or a feeler gauge to check the gap between the nozzle and the bed at different points and adjust it accordingly. A clean bed prevents dust, oil, or other contaminants from interfering with the adhesion. You can use a cloth with some alcohol or acetone to wipe the bed before each print.

The second thing you need to do is choose the right bed temperature and surface for your filament type. Different filaments have different melting points and properties, which affect how they stick to different materials. For example, PLA usually sticks well to a heated glass bed at around 60°C, while ABS requires a higher temperature of around 100°C and may benefit from a layer of glue stick or hairspray on the bed. You can experiment with different temperatures and surfaces until you find the optimal combination for your filament.

The third thing you need to do is adjust your slicer settings to improve your first layer quality and adhesion. There are several settings that can affect this, such as layer height, line width, print speed, fan speed, and flow rate. Generally speaking, you want your first layer to be slightly thicker and wider than the rest of the layers, as this increases the contact area with the bed. You also want to print your first layer at a slower speed and lower fan speed, as this allows more time for the filament to melt and bond with the bed. You may also need to increase or decrease your flow rate depending on whether your first layer is over- or under-extruded.