Category: Troubleshooting

When 3d printing, not every model is ready to be printed. Sometimes, the models have errors or defects that need to be fixed before printing. These errors are called non-manifold geometry, and they can cause serious problems if you try to print them.

Non-manifold geometry is when a model has edges or vertices that are shared by more than two faces, or when a model has holes or gaps in its surface. These errors make the model ambiguous and inconsistent, and they confuse the 3D printer. The printer does not know how to interpret the model or how to fill the space inside it.

If you try to print a model that has non-manifold geometry, you may end up with a failed print, a distorted print, or a print that does not match the original model. For example, you may get unwanted holes, gaps, spikes, or blobs in your print. You may also waste time and material on printing something that does not work or look good.

To avoid these problems, you need to repair your model before printing. There are many software tools that can help you detect and fix non-manifold geometry. Some of them are free and some of them are paid. Some of them are online and some of them are offline. Some of them are easy and some of them are complex. You need to choose the tool that suits your needs and preferences.

The extruder is the part of your printer that pushes the filament through the nozzle and melts it to create the layers of your 3D print. If the extruder is not working properly, you may encounter problems such as under-extrusion, over-extrusion, clogging, stringing, or poor adhesion. Here are some steps you can take to diagnose if your printer has an issue with the extruder:

  1. Check the temperature of the extruder. The temperature should match the recommended range for the type of filament you are using. If the temperature is too low, the filament may not melt enough and cause under-extrusion or clogging. If the temperature is too high, the filament may ooze out of the nozzle and cause over-extrusion or stringing. You can adjust the temperature using the printer’s settings or a slicer software.
  2. Check the tension of the extruder. The tension is the force that the extruder applies to the filament to push it through the nozzle. If the tension is too loose, the extruder may not grip the filament well and cause under-extrusion or skipping. If the tension is too tight, the extruder may deform or grind the filament and cause over-extrusion or clogging. You can adjust the tension by tightening or loosening the screws on the extruder.
  3. Check the alignment of the extruder. The alignment is the position of the extruder relative to the nozzle and the print bed. If the alignment is off, the extruder may not deposit the filament evenly and cause poor adhesion or warping. You can check the alignment by printing a test pattern and measuring the distance between the nozzle and the print bed at different points. You can adjust the alignment by leveling the print bed or adjusting the height of the nozzle.
  4. Check for any debris or damage in the extruder. The debris or damage may be caused by dust, dirt, filament residue, or wear and tear. If there is any debris or damage in the extruder, it may obstruct or interfere with the flow of filament and cause clogging, jamming, or inconsistent extrusion. You can check for any debris or damage by inspecting the extruder visually or using a needle or a wire to poke through the nozzle. You can clean or replace any parts that are dirty or damaged.

If you have ever experienced a partial clog on your 3D printer, you know how frustrating it can be. A partial clog is when the filament does not flow smoothly through the nozzle, resulting in under-extrusion, poor print quality, and sometimes even nozzle jams. We will explain what causes a partial clog, how to identify it, and how to fix it.

What causes a partial clog?

A partial clog can be caused by various factors, such as:

  • Using low-quality or incompatible filament that contains impurities, moisture, or inconsistent diameter.
  • Printing at a wrong temperature that is too high or too low for the filament type.
  • Printing at a wrong speed that is too fast or too slow for the nozzle size and layer height.
  • Leaving the nozzle heated for too long without extruding any filament, causing heat creep and filament degradation.
  • Not cleaning the nozzle regularly or properly, allowing dust, debris, or burnt filament to accumulate inside.

How to identify a partial clog?

A partial clog can manifest itself in different ways, depending on the severity and location of the blockage. Some common signs of a partial clog are:

  • The extruder motor skipping steps or making clicking noises.
  • The filament curling or bending at the nozzle tip instead of coming out straight.
  • The filament coming out thinner or thicker than usual, or with gaps or blobs.
  • The print surface showing signs of under-extrusion, such as missing layers, holes, or roughness.
  • The print quality deteriorating over time, especially on long prints.

How to fix a partial clog?

The best way to fix a partial clog is to prevent it from happening in the first place by using high-quality and compatible filament, printing at the optimal settings for your printer and material, and cleaning the nozzle regularly and properly. However, if you already have a partial clog, here are some steps you can try to clear it:

  • Increase the nozzle temperature by 5-10°C and try to extrude some filament manually. This may help to melt any hardened or stuck filament inside the nozzle.
  • Use a needle or a wire to poke through the nozzle hole and dislodge any debris or burnt filament. Be careful not to damage the nozzle or the heating element.
  • Perform a cold pull or an atomic pull. This is a technique where you heat up the nozzle, insert a piece of filament, let it cool down slightly, and then pull it out quickly with a pair of pliers. This may help to pull out any residue or impurities from the nozzle along with the filament.
  • Replace the nozzle with a new one. This is the last resort if none of the above methods work. Make sure to use a nozzle that matches your printer model and filament type.

If you want to improve the surface quality of your 3D prints, you may want to try the ironing feature in Cura. Ironing is a process that smooths out the top layers of your print by moving a hot nozzle over them without extruding any material. This can reduce the visibility of layer lines and create a glossy finish.

However, ironing can also introduce some artifacts such as seams or gaps between the ironing lines. To avoid this, you can use the Monotonic Ironing Order setting in Cura. This setting orders the ironing lines in a way that adjacent lines are always printed overlapping in the same direction. This makes the ironing process more consistent and reduces the chances of creating unwanted marks on your print.

To enable Monotonic Ironing Order, you need to first enable Ironing in Cura. You can find it under the Experimental section of the settings. Then, you need to scroll down to the Ironing subsection and check the box for Monotonic Ironing Order. You can also adjust other ironing settings such as ironing pattern, flow, speed, and acceleration to suit your preferences.

Monotonic Ironing Order is a useful setting that can enhance the ironing feature in Cura and help you achieve smoother top layers for your 3D prints. You can experiment with different settings and see how they affect your results. Happy printing!

If you use Octoprint to control your 3D printer, you might have noticed some stringing on your prints. Stringing is when thin strands of filament are left between different parts of the model, creating a messy appearance. Stringing can be caused by many factors, such as temperature, retraction settings, and print speed. However, one factor that is often overlooked is the effect of Octoprint on the printer’s processor.

Octoprint is a software that allows you to remotely monitor and control your 3D printer from any device. It runs on a Raspberry Pi, a small computer that connects to your printer via USB. Octoprint offers many features and plugins that can enhance your 3D printing experience, such as timelapses, slicers, and custom commands.

However, Octoprint also has some drawbacks. One of them is that it can slow down the processor of your printer, especially if you use a lot of plugins or stream high-resolution video. This can affect the performance of your printer and cause issues such as stuttering, pauses, and buffer underruns. These issues can result in inconsistent extrusion and movement, which can lead to stringing.

To avoid this problem, you should optimize your Octoprint setup and reduce the load on your printer’s processor. Here are some tips:

  • Use a Raspberry Pi 4 or higher, which has more processing power and memory than older models.
  • Disable or uninstall any plugins that you don’t need or use frequently.
  • Reduce the resolution and frame rate of your camera stream, or turn it off completely when not needed.
  • Increase the baud rate of your USB connection, which can improve the data transfer speed between your printer and Octoprint.
  • Use a quality USB cable that is shielded and has ferrite beads, which can prevent interference and noise.
  • Update your printer’s firmware and Octoprint’s software to the latest versions, which can fix bugs and improve compatibility.

By following these steps, you can minimize the impact of Octoprint on your printer’s processor and reduce the chances of stringing. However, you should also check your other print settings and calibrate your extruder and retraction properly, as these are also important factors for preventing stringing. Happy printing!

One of the most common problems that 3D printing enthusiasts face is when the layers of their prints do not stick together properly. This can result in weak or brittle prints, or even complete failures. In this blog post, I will explain some of the possible causes of this issue and how to fix them.

The first thing to check is the bed leveling. If the bed is not level, the nozzle will not be at the right distance from the surface, and the extruded filament will not adhere well. To level the bed, you can use a piece of paper and slide it under the nozzle while adjusting the screws on the corners of the bed. The paper should feel slightly tight between the nozzle and the bed.

The second thing to check is the bed temperature. If the bed is too cold, the filament will cool down too quickly and shrink, causing it to detach from the bed. If the bed is too hot, the filament will stay soft and deform, causing it to curl up. The optimal bed temperature depends on the type of filament you are using, but a general range is between 50°C and 70°C for PLA and between 80°C and 110°C for ABS.

The third thing to check is the nozzle temperature. If the nozzle is too cold, the filament will not melt properly and will not bond well with the previous layer. If the nozzle is too hot, the filament will ooze out of the nozzle and create blobs or strings on your print. The optimal nozzle temperature also depends on the type of filament you are using, but a general range is between 180°C and 220°C for PLA and between 230°C and 260°C for ABS.

The fourth thing to check is the print speed. If you print too fast, the filament will not have enough time to adhere to the previous layer before moving on to the next one. If you print too slow, the filament will stay in contact with the hot nozzle for too long and degrade or burn. The optimal print speed depends on many factors, such as the size and complexity of your model, but a general range is between 30 mm/s and 60 mm/s.

The fifth thing to check is the fan speed. The fan helps to cool down the filament after it leaves the nozzle and prevent warping or sagging. However, if the fan is too strong, it can also cool down the previous layer too much and prevent it from bonding with the next one. The optimal fan speed depends on the type of filament you are using, but a general rule is to use a low fan speed for ABS (around 10%) and a high fan speed for PLA (around 80%).

These are some of the most common causes of layer adhesion problems in 3D printing. By following these tips, you should be able to improve your prints and avoid frustration. Happy printing!

Do your parts look like biscuits? If you are new to 3D printing, you might have encountered some problems with your prints. One of the most common issues is when your prints look spongy or porous, instead of smooth and solid. This can affect the appearance, strength and functionality of your 3D printed objects. I will explain why this happens and how you can fix it.

The main reason why your 3D prints look spongy is because of under-extrusion. Under-extrusion is when your printer does not extrude enough filament to fill the gaps between the layers or the perimeters of your model. This can be caused by several factors, such as:

  • A clogged nozzle that prevents the filament from flowing smoothly
  • A worn-out extruder gear that does not grip the filament properly
  • A low extrusion temperature that makes the filament too viscous to melt
  • A high printing speed that does not give enough time for the filament to adhere to the previous layer
  • A low infill percentage that does not provide enough support for the top layers
  • A faulty slicer setting that does not calculate the correct amount of filament needed

To fix the problem of under-extrusion, you need to identify and eliminate the root cause. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot and improve your 3D prints:

  • Clean your nozzle regularly with a needle or a wire brush to remove any debris or burnt filament
  • Replace your extruder gear if it shows signs of wear and tear or slippage
  • Increase your extrusion temperature gradually until you find the optimal value for your filament type and brand
  • Reduce your printing speed to allow more time for the filament to bond with the previous layer
  • Increase your infill percentage to provide more support and stability for the top layers
  • Check your slicer settings and make sure they match your printer specifications and filament characteristics

By following these tips, you should be able to reduce or eliminate the sponginess of your 3D prints. Remember to always test your settings on a small and simple model before printing a large or complex one. Happy printing!

If you have ever tried to print a model with a very shallow angle, you may have encountered the problem of holes in the top of your print. This can happen when the printer tries to bridge a large gap with very little support from below. The filament may sag or curl up, creating gaps or bumps on the surface.

There are a few ways to overcome this problem and get a smooth and solid top layer for your 3D print. Here are some tips that you can try:

  • Increase the number of top layers. By adding more layers on top of each other, you can fill in the gaps and create a thicker and stronger surface. You can adjust this setting in your slicer software, usually under infill or shell options.
  • Increase the infill density. By increasing the amount of material inside your model, you can provide more support for the top layer and prevent it from sagging. You can also adjust this setting in your slicer software, usually under infill options.
  • Increase the print temperature. By increasing the temperature of your nozzle, you can make the filament more fluid and easier to bridge gaps. However, be careful not to increase it too much, as it may cause other problems such as stringing or oozing.
  • Decrease the print speed. By decreasing the speed of your printer, you can give more time for the filament to cool down and solidify before moving to the next position. This can reduce sagging and curling and improve the quality of your print.
  • Use a cooling fan. By using a cooling fan, you can blow air on the filament as it comes out of the nozzle and help it cool down faster and retain its shape. This can also reduce sagging and curling and improve the quality of your print.
  • Rotate or tilt your model. By rotating or tilting your model, you can change the angle of the surface and make it less shallow. This can reduce the amount of bridging required and make it easier for your printer to handle.

Layer shift is a common problem that can affect the quality and accuracy of your 3D prints. It happens when the print head or the bed moves out of alignment during the printing process, resulting in layers that are not aligned with each other. This can cause gaps, cracks, distortions, or even failed prints.

There are many possible causes of layer shift, such as loose belts, faulty stepper motors, incorrect settings, mechanical obstructions, or power fluctuations. To diagnose and fix layer shift, you need to check the following aspects of your 3D printer:

  • Belts: The belts that drive the X and Y axes should be tight and smooth, without any signs of wear or damage. If they are loose or frayed, they can slip or skip steps, causing layer shift. You can tighten or replace the belts as needed.
  • Stepper motors: The stepper motors that control the movement of the print head and the bed should be working properly and receiving enough power. If they are faulty or overheating, they can lose steps or stall, causing layer shift. You can test the motors by manually moving them and listening for any unusual noises or vibrations. You can also check the wiring and connections for any loose or damaged parts.
  • Settings: The settings that control the speed, acceleration, jerk, and retraction of your 3D printer should be optimized for your model and filament. If they are too high or too low, they can cause the print head or the bed to move too fast or too slow, causing layer shift. You can adjust the settings in your slicer software or on your printer’s LCD screen.
  • Mechanical obstructions: The print head and the bed should be able to move freely and smoothly along the X and Y axes, without any interference from the frame, the rods, the wires, or the printed parts. If there are any mechanical obstructions that block or limit their movement, they can cause layer shift. You can check for any debris, dust, or filament scraps that might be stuck in the rails or bearings. You can also make sure that the wires are properly secured and routed to avoid tangling or snagging.
  • Power fluctuations: The power supply that provides electricity to your 3D printer should be stable and consistent. If there are any power fluctuations that cause surges or drops in voltage, they can affect the performance of your 3D printer and cause layer shift. You can use a surge protector or a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) to protect your 3D printer from power issues.

How to Repair a 3D Model with Errors

If you are planning to 3D print a model, you want to make sure that it is error-free and ready for printing. Otherwise, you may end up with a failed print, wasted filament, or a damaged printer. Here are a couple of ways to repair a 3D model with errors using some common tools and techniques.

There are different types of errors that can affect a 3D model, such as:

  • Non-manifold geometry: This means that the model has edges or vertices that are not connected to any faces, or faces that are not connected to any edges or vertices. This can cause problems with slicing and printing, as the model may not have a clear inside and outside.
  • Inverted normals: This means that some of the faces of the model are pointing in the wrong direction, which can affect the appearance and functionality of the model. For example, if a face is pointing inward instead of outward, it may create a hole in the model or prevent it from being watertight.
  • Intersecting faces: This means that some of the faces of the model overlap or cross each other, which can create confusion for the slicer and printer. For example, if two faces intersect at an angle, it may create a gap or an extra wall in the model.
  • Duplicate faces: This means that some of the faces of the model are identical and occupy the same space, which can cause redundancy and inefficiency in the slicing and printing process. For example, if two faces are duplicated on top of each other, it may create a thicker layer or an unnecessary support structure in the model.

To repair these errors, you can use various software tools that are designed for 3D modeling and editing. Some of the most popular ones are:

  • Meshmixer: This is a free and versatile tool that can help you fix and modify your 3D models. You can use it to analyze, repair, sculpt, hollow, slice, and export your models. To repair your model with Meshmixer, you can use the Inspector tool, which will automatically detect and highlight any errors in your model. You can then choose to auto-repair them or manually edit them using various tools such as plane cut, smooth, erase and fill, etc.
  • Netfabb: This is another free and powerful tool that can help you repair and optimize your 3D models. You can use it to check, analyze, edit, scale, slice, and export your models. To repair your model with Netfabb, you can use the Repair tool, which will automatically detect and fix any errors in your model. You can then choose to apply or discard the changes and export your repaired model.
  • Blender: This is a free and open-source tool that can help you create and edit your 3D models. You can use it to sculpt, model, animate, render, and export your models. To repair your model with Blender, you can use the Edit mode, which will allow you to select and manipulate any vertices, edges, or faces of your model. You can then use various tools such as merge by distance, recalculate normals, intersect (boolean), etc. to fix any errors in your model.

These are just some of the tools and techniques that you can use to repair a 3D model with errors. Depending on the complexity and severity of the errors, you may need to use more than one tool or technique to achieve a satisfactory result. However, by repairing your model before printing it, you can save yourself time, money, and frustration in the long run.